Why Honeymoon in the Picos de Europa
The Picos offer something rare in Spain: real mountain wilderness within easy reach of good hotels and excellent food. You can spend the morning hiking a gorge, the afternoon by a glacial lake and the evening over cider and cheese in a village tavern.
The scenery changes quickly. The Cares gorge is a trail carved into cliffs above a rushing river. The Covadonga lakes sit in high pastures below rocky peaks. At Fuente Dé, a cable car lifts you up a sheer wall into a lunar landscape of limestone.
The region also feels uncrowded compared with the Mediterranean coast, especially on weekdays. Most visitors are Spanish. The pace is slow. For couples who love the outdoors, it is a refreshing change from beaches and cities.
When to Go
Late May through September is the main season. June and September are the best months, with long days, green meadows and fewer visitors than August. Daytime temperatures are mostly in the 60s and 70s Fahrenheit, cooler at altitude.
The north of Spain is wet. Rain and fog can roll in any time, even in midsummer, so plan a mix of hikes and indoor or village days. Mornings are often clearer than afternoons.
August is the busiest month, when Spanish families arrive and roads to the lakes get congested. October can be beautiful, with autumn colors and crisp air, but weather turns less reliable. From November to April, snow closes high trails and some hotels shut, though the valleys stay green and quiet.
Where to Stay
Cangas de Onís, on the Asturian side, is the main base. It has a humpbacked medieval stone bridge over the river, known locally as the Roman bridge, plus restaurants and easy access to Covadonga. The Parador de Cangas de Onís occupies a former monastery a few minutes outside town, with stone cloisters and river views.
Arenas de Cabrales is closer to the Cares gorge and the cheese caves. On the Cantabrian side, Potes is a pretty stone town in the Liébana valley, near the Fuente Dé cable car. The Parador de Fuente Dé sits at the foot of the cliffs, right by the cable car station.
The region is full of rural hotels, many in old farmhouses with mountain views. As a rough guide, good rural hotels cost about $100 to $250 a night, which is excellent value compared with Spain's coasts.
Romantic Things to Do
Hike the Cares gorge trail, roughly 7.5 miles one way between Poncebos and Caín, cut into the cliffs high above the river. Many couples walk part of it and turn back, or arrange a taxi for the return.
Visit the Covadonga lakes, Enol and Ercina, in the high pastures above the Santuario de Covadonga. In summer, private cars are restricted, so take the shuttle bus from Cangas de Onís. Walk the easy loop between the lakes and picnic by the water.
Ride the Fuente Dé cable car, which climbs about 2,500 feet in a few minutes, then walk across the plateau above. Take the funicular from Poncebos to the village of Bulnes, which has no road. Spend a day on the coast near Llanes, exploring coves and the inland beach of Gulpiyuri.
Getting There and Around
There are no nonstop flights from the US to Asturias. Fly to Madrid and connect to Asturias Airport (OVD), about an hour from Cangas de Onís, or take the train to Oviedo and drive from there. United has flown seasonal nonstops from Newark to Bilbao (BIO), about two and a half hours from the eastern Picos by car, so check schedules.
Rent a car. Public transport is limited and the best trails, villages and viewpoints are spread across three regions. Roads are narrow and winding, so allow plenty of time, especially in fog.
In summer, access to the Covadonga lakes by private car is restricted for much of the day, with shuttle buses from Cangas de Onís. Check the current rules before you go.
Food and Drink
Asturias has some of Spain's heartiest food. Fabada asturiana is a rich stew of large white beans with chorizo, black pudding and pork. Cachopo is a pair of breaded veal fillets stuffed with ham and cheese. Both are ideal after a long hike.
Cabrales is the famous local blue cheese, aged in natural limestone caves in the mountains. You can visit a cheese cave in Arenas de Cabrales to see how it is made.
Cider (sidra) is the drink. In a sidrería, the waiter holds the bottle high overhead and pours a thin stream into a glass held low, aerating it. You drink the small splash quickly, then wait for the next pour. On the Cantabrian side, try orujo, a strong spirit, with cocido lebaniego, a chickpea stew.
Honeymoon Tips
- Pack waterproof jackets and good hiking shoes. Weather changes fast in the mountains.
- Start hikes early to avoid afternoon fog and summer crowds.
- Check the shuttle bus schedule for the Covadonga lakes before you go.
- Book paradors and the best rural hotels early for July and August.
- Carry water and snacks on trails. Services are few once you leave the villages.
- Combine the Picos with San Sebastián or the Asturian coast for a varied trip through northern Spain.
- Drive slowly on mountain roads and watch for cattle on the tarmac.
