Why Honeymoon in Toledo
Toledo is sometimes called the City of Three Cultures, after the Christians, Muslims and Jews who lived side by side here during the Middle Ages. Their traces sit within a few hundred yards of each other. The Synagogue of Santa María la Blanca has rows of white horseshoe arches. The small Mosque of Cristo de la Luz dates to the late 10th century. The cathedral, one of the largest in Spain, holds a sacristy hung with paintings by El Greco, Goya and Titian.
The city is also simply beautiful to walk. Narrow streets climb and twist past carved wooden doors, convent walls and small plazas.
For a honeymoon, Toledo is best as a contrast to Madrid's energy, a quiet night or two before moving south to Andalusia or back to the airport.
When to Go
April through June and mid September through October are the best months. Days are in the 70s and low 80s Fahrenheit, ideal for walking the steep streets.
July and August are hot, often in the upper 90s and sometimes above 100°F, with little shade on the hill. Sightsee early, rest in the afternoon and go out again after dark.
Winter is cold, with nights near freezing, but skies are often clear and the city is quiet. Corpus Christi, in late May or June, is Toledo's biggest festival, when streets are hung with awnings and flowers for a grand procession. It is lovely to see but hotels fill quickly, so check the date and book early if you want to be there.
Where to Stay
Stay inside the old walls so you can walk out after dinner. Small hotels in restored houses and convents give you a quiet room steps from the main sights.
The Parador de Toledo sits on a hill across the river, with what many consider the best view of the city from its terrace and pool. You will need a taxi or car to reach the old town, but watching the sunset over Toledo from the Parador is reason enough.
Inside the walls, Hotel Eugenia de Montijo occupies a restored palace near the main square, with a small spa. As an approximate guide, good boutique hotels cost about $120 to $300 a night, rising on spring weekends and during Corpus Christi.
Romantic Things to Do
Watch the sunset from the Mirador del Valle, a viewpoint across the Tagus with the full skyline of Toledo in front of you. Take a taxi, or walk the riverside path if you are up for a hike.
See El Greco's The Burial of the Count of Orgaz in the Church of Santo Tomé, his most famous painting, in the building it was made for. Visit the cathedral early, then explore the old Jewish quarter and the Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes, with its graceful Gothic cloister.
In the evening, walk the lanes after the day-trippers leave, when the cathedral and walls are floodlit. Cross the Puente de San Martín, a medieval bridge over the river. Try the zip line across the gorge if you want a thrill.
Getting There and Around
Fly into Madrid-Barajas (MAD), which has nonstop flights from many US cities. From Madrid Atocha station, the high-speed train reaches Toledo in about 35 minutes. Book a few days ahead, since trains fill up on weekends. Buses from Madrid take about an hour. By car the drive takes about an hour from the airport.
Toledo's station is a short taxi ride or a 20-minute uphill walk from the old town. Escalators climb from the lower town to the historic center, which helps with luggage.
Inside the walls, walk everywhere. Many streets are too narrow or steep for cars. If you drive, park in a garage outside the walls or use your hotel's parking. Avoid driving into the old town's tangle of one-way lanes.
Food and Drink
Toledo's food reflects the plains of La Mancha around it. Look for perdiz estofada (partridge stewed in wine), carcamusas (a spicy pork and tomato stew) and roasted lamb. Manchego cheese and local olive oil feature at every meal.
Marzipan (mazapán) is Toledo's sweet specialty, made for centuries by nuns. Buy it from convent bakeries or old confectioners near the cathedral. Figures and small pastries make good gifts.
La Mancha and nearby regions produce good value wines, mostly reds from Tempranillo. Many restaurants pour local labels by the glass. Book a dinner with a view if you can, either on a terrace inside the walls or across the river near the Parador.
Honeymoon Tips
- Stay overnight. Toledo is far more romantic after the day-trippers leave.
- Wear comfortable shoes with grip. The streets are steep and cobbled.
- Buy a combined ticket if you plan to see several monuments.
- Cover shoulders and knees inside the cathedral and churches.
- In summer, do outdoor sightseeing before noon and rest in the afternoon.
- Book the Parador's view rooms early, especially for spring weekends.
- Combine Toledo with Madrid, Córdoba or Seville for an easy train itinerary.
