Why Honeymoon in Formentera
Formentera does very little, which is exactly the point. The island measures only about 12 miles end to end. It has no high-rise hotels and almost no big resorts. Its best-known beach, Ses Illetes, is a narrow strip of sand inside the Ses Salines Natural Park, with water on both sides.
You can spend a week swimming from a different beach each day, eating grilled fish at beach shacks and watching sunsets from the cliffs, without ever needing a plan. The island has a bohemian side too, rooted in the hippie era, with artisans' markets in summer.
For couples who want some action, Ibiza is only a short boat ride away for a night out, though most honeymooners find they rarely make the trip.
When to Go
Late May through June and September are the best months. The sea warms into the 70s Fahrenheit, days are sunny and long. Prices are lower than in midsummer. The water is often warmest in September.
July and August are peak season. The island is busy with day-trippers from Ibiza, yachts crowd the anchorages off Ses Illetes and hotel rates climb sharply. Book well ahead if you go then.
May and early October are lovely for walking and cycling, though the sea is cooler and some beach restaurants open shorter hours. From November to April many hotels, restaurants and shops close. The island is beautiful but very sleepy, with limited ferry and dining options.
Where to Stay
Formentera has a modest supply of hotels, so book early. Migjorn, the long south coast beach, is ideal for couples who want to wake up by the sea, with low-key hotels and beach restaurants. Gecko Hotel and Beach Club is one well-known choice there, with a pool and direct beach access.
Es Pujols, near Ses Illetes, is the liveliest village, with the most bars and restaurants. Sant Francesc, the small capital, has a pretty church square and good shops. La Mola, on the island's eastern plateau, is rural and green, with a scattering of villas.
Many couples rent a private villa with a pool and a car or scooter. As a rough guide, good hotels cost about $300 to $700 a night in summer, with some villas higher. Prices drop noticeably in May and early October.
Romantic Things to Do
Spend a morning at Ses Illetes before the boats arrive from Ibiza. Walk along the sand spit and, on calm days, wade or swim across to Espalmador, a small private islet with a quiet beach.
Rent bicycles and follow the island's signposted green routes, a network of country lanes and tracks through fields, salt flats and pine woods. Visit Cala Saona, a small cove with red cliffs and good snorkeling. Hike to Sa Pedrera or along the cliffs at La Mola for views over the water.
At sunset, drive to the Cap de Barbaria lighthouse at the southern tip. Couples gather on the rocks to watch the sun drop into the sea. Book a sailing day around the coast, stopping to swim in empty coves. End the evening with dinner and a glass of local hierbas liqueur in Sant Francesc.
Getting There and Around
There is no airport on Formentera. United has announced seasonal Newark nonstops to Ibiza, so check whether they are running for your dates. Otherwise fly to Ibiza (IBZ) via Madrid, Barcelona or another European hub. From the airport, a taxi takes about 20 minutes to Ibiza port, where fast ferries reach La Savina on Formentera in about 30 minutes. Departures run every 30 to 60 minutes in summer.
On the island, rent a scooter, electric bike or small car in La Savina. Formentera limits the number of visiting vehicles in high summer, so rent locally rather than bringing one from Ibiza. Buses link the port, villages and main beaches.
Roads are flat and quiet, which makes cycling easy, though summer heat can be intense at midday.
Food and Drink
Seafood is the star. Beach restaurants grill whole fish, serve lobster stew (caldereta de langosta) and rice dishes cooked with seafood. A long lunch with your feet in the sand is part of the Formentera routine. Juan y Andrea, on the beach at Ses Illetes, is one of the best-known spots, so book ahead in summer.
Try ensalada payesa, a local salad of potatoes, peppers and dried fish (peix sec), plus flaó, a cheesecake flavored with mint. Hierbas, a sweet herbal liqueur, is the traditional way to end a meal.
Sant Francesc and Es Pujols have casual restaurants and bars for dinner. In summer, many beach restaurants stay open through sunset, which makes them good for a romantic early dinner.
Honeymoon Tips
- Book hotels and summer ferries early. Rooms on Formentera are limited.
- Arrive at Ses Illetes early or late in the day to avoid peak crowds.
- Many beaches are naturist friendly. Swimsuits are always fine.
- Bring reef-safe sunscreen and shade. There are few trees on the beaches.
- Do not drop anchor on the Posidonia seagrass. Boat charters know the rules, so follow their lead.
- Carry water and wear helmets when cycling or riding scooters.
- If your trip falls in winter, check that your hotel and ferry are running, since much of the island closes.
