The Parador de Cangas de Onís is the most romantic place to stay on the Asturian side of the Picos de Europa. It occupies the Monastery of San Pedro de Villanueva, a Romanesque complex on the banks of the Sella river a few minutes from Cangas de Onís, the gateway town to Covadonga and the mountain lakes.
The history runs deep. Legend links the first church here to Alfonso I, one of the earliest kings of Asturias. Benedictine monks built the monastery beside it in the 12th century, it was rebuilt over later centuries and it was dissolved in 1835. The building has been a protected national monument since 1907. Today the Romanesque church is still in use. You can wander cloisters and stone corridors that feel unchanged.
It suits couples who want a hiking and food honeymoon in green northern Spain, with a characterful base that does not cost a fortune. It is not a luxury spa resort. The Asturian weather is often damp, so pack for rain as well as sun.
Highlights at a glance
- Romanesque Monastery of San Pedro de Villanueva
- Riverside setting on the Sella
- Minutes from Cangas de Onís and Covadonga
- Asturian cooking and cider
- Excellent value for a historic hotel
Why Couples Love the Parador
Paradores are Spain's state-run historic hotels, set in castles, convents and palaces. This is one of the most atmospheric. Walking through a monastery cloister on the way to breakfast is a memorable way to start the day.
The setting is quietly beautiful. The Sella river runs past the walls, green meadows rise behind and the limestone peaks of the Picos de Europa are a short drive away. Evenings are calm, with the sound of the river and church bells.
The value is the other draw. Rooms here cost far less than a comparable historic hotel on Spain's coasts, which leaves more of your budget for long lunches of fabada and Cabrales cheese. Staff are local and happy to suggest hikes, cider houses and village festivals.
Rooms to Book
Rooms are split between the historic monastery building and a more modern wing added to give the parador its full capacity.
- Rooms in the old monastery have thick stone walls, wooden beams and the most character. They are the honeymoon choice, especially those looking over the cloister or the river.
- Rooms in the modern wing are more spacious and contemporary. They are comfortable and often quieter, but they feel like a standard good hotel rather than a monastery.
When you book, ask specifically for a room in the historic part of the building. Mention your honeymoon. Paradores often offer packages with breakfast and dinner included, worth comparing with room-only rates. Superior rooms are larger, so check sizes if you plan to spend a rainy afternoon inside.
Food and Drink
The parador's restaurant focuses on Asturian cooking, which is reason enough to eat at least one dinner here. Try fabada asturiana, a rich bean stew with chorizo and morcilla, local beef, river trout and cachopo, a breaded veal cutlet stuffed with ham and cheese.
Asturias is cider country. Watch the waiter pour sidra from above his head into a wide glass to aerate it, then drink it quickly. Many cider houses, called sidrerías, line the streets of Cangas de Onís.
Finish with Cabrales, a strong blue cheese aged in mountain caves, or a gentler local cheese if you prefer. Arroz con leche, a creamy rice pudding, is the classic dessert. The bar is a good place for a quiet glass of Spanish wine before dinner.
Why guests fall for it
Things to Do
Covadonga is the first outing. The shrine, set in a cave above a waterfall, is said to be where the Christian reconquest of Spain began. The Basilica stands nearby. Above it, the Lakes of Covadonga, Enol and Ercina, sit in high mountain meadows with easy walking trails. Private car access to the lakes is restricted in busy periods, with buses from Cangas de Onís instead.
The Cares Trail is the classic hike, a path cut into the side of a deep gorge. Start from Poncebos and walk as far as you like.
Paddle down the Sella river in a canoe from Arriondas, a relaxed half day with lunch at the end. Visit Cangas de Onís's medieval stone bridge. One partner can hike higher while the other explores cheese caves in Arenas de Cabrales.
Getting There
Asturias Airport (OVD) is about an hour away by car and has domestic flights from Madrid and Barcelona, plus some European routes. Santander (SDR) and Bilbao (BIO) are other options, at around two and three hours respectively.
From Madrid, high-speed trains run to Oviedo and Gijón, where you can pick up a rental car. A car is essential in the Picos: the trailheads, villages and viewpoints are spread out and public transport is limited.
The parador is just off the main road, a few minutes from Cangas de Onís. Parking is available. Mountain roads are narrow and winding, so drive slowly, especially after dark or in fog.
Is It Worth It?
Yes, especially for the price. The Parador de Cangas de Onís typically costs a fraction of a luxury hotel elsewhere in Spain, roughly a couple of hundred dollars a night for two, approximate and lower midweek and off season. You get a historic monastery, a riverside setting and an excellent base for the Picos de Europa.
Three or four nights lets you see Covadonga, the lakes, the Cares Trail and the Sella.
Pick elsewhere if you want a modern spa or luxury service. Rural hotels in restored farmhouses can feel more intimate and offer bigger mountain views. Couples who prefer the Cantabrian side should look at the Parador de Fuente Dé, at the foot of the cable car near Potes.
Weather and Seasons
Asturias is green for a reason: it rains often, even in summer. Pack waterproof jackets and decent walking shoes for both of you, plus a warm layer for evenings in the mountains.
The best months for hiking are May to October. July and August are warmest and busiest, especially around Covadonga and the lakes. June and September offer a good balance of weather and crowds. The Descenso del Sella canoe festival in early August fills Cangas de Onís and Arriondas.
Winter brings snow to the high peaks and closures on some mountain roads. The lower valleys stay pleasant for walks and cider houses. Check trail conditions before setting out, since weather in the Picos can change fast.
Insider tips
- Request a room in the historic monastery building rather than the modern wing.
- Take the bus to the Lakes of Covadonga in summer; private cars are restricted at busy times.
- Walk the Cares Trail early in the morning to beat the crowds and heat.
- Book the Sella canoe trip for a sunny afternoon and pack dry clothes.
