Why Honeymoon in Seville
Seville looks the way many people picture Spain before they've been. The Real Alcázar is still a working royal palace, its rooms covered in carved plaster and glazed tile, with gardens of fountains and palms that feel miles from the street outside. The cathedral holds Columbus's tomb, while its minaret turned bell tower climbs by ramps instead of stairs.
The pleasure is also in the ordinary. Couples stroll the Plaza de España at dusk and linger over a glass of chilled manzanilla at a tiled bar counter. Late at night the old town hums rather than roars, with families still out in the squares after midnight.
Seville is affordable compared with Barcelona or Madrid. A very good palace hotel costs less than its big city equivalent, while tapas bars are cheap enough to try four in an evening.
When to Go
March through May is the classic season. The orange blossom (azahar) scents the whole city in March and April, while days sit in the 70s. Holy Week and the April Fair (Feria de Abril) are spectacular but drive hotel prices up sharply, so book months ahead or plan around them if you prefer calm streets.
Late September through November is just as good, with warm afternoons and fewer visitors. December through February is mild and often sunny, around 60°F at midday, which suits couples who care more about food and architecture than sunbathing.
June is hot. July and August are fierce, with afternoons commonly above 100°F and sometimes past 110°F. Locals retreat indoors from about 2 to 7 p.m. If you have to come then, sightsee at opening time, nap in the afternoon and live by night.
Where to Stay
Stay inside the old town so you can walk home after dinner. Santa Cruz, the old Jewish quarter beside the Alcázar, is the most atmospheric area, with narrow lanes that stay cool even in summer. El Arenal, between the cathedral and the river, is close to the bullring and good tapas bars.
The city's best hotels are converted mansions built around patios. Hotel Alfonso XIII, a grand 1929 landmark next to the university, is the classic splurge. Corral del Rey and Hotel Mercer Sevilla are smaller restored houses with roof terraces and a quiet, residential feel.
For something more local, look across the river in Triana, the old potters' quarter, or up toward the Alameda de Hércules for bars full of Sevillanos rather than visitors. In summer, a rooftop plunge pool is worth paying for.
Romantic Things to Do
Book the Alcázar for the first slot of the day and head straight for the gardens before tour groups arrive. Then climb the Giralda, where 35 ramps wide enough for a horse lead to the top.
Rent a rowboat on the canal in the Plaza de España and watch the light change on its tiled alcoves, one for each Spanish province. Walk the riverbank to the Torre del Oro at dusk, or cross the Triana bridge for dinner on Calle Betis with views back to the old town.
See flamenco somewhere small. Intimate venues seat a few dozen people around a bare stage, so you feel the footwork through the floor. Book an evening at one of the Arab-style bathhouses in Santa Cruz for warm pools by candlelight. The rooftop walkways of the Metropol Parasol are another fine sunset stop.
Getting There and Around
There are no nonstop flights from the US to Seville. The easiest route is to fly into Madrid and take the high-speed train, which reaches Seville's Santa Justa station in about two and a half hours. Renfe, Iryo and Ouigo all run the line, so advance fares can be very low. You can also connect through Madrid, Barcelona or another European hub to Seville Airport.
The old town is best on foot. A taxi from the airport takes 20 to 25 minutes, but drivers can't reach many hotel doors in Santa Cruz, so expect a short walk with your bags.
Day trips are easy without a car. Córdoba is about 45 minutes by fast train. Jerez de la Frontera, the sherry town, is around an hour, while Cádiz on the Atlantic is under two.
Food and Drink
Seville is a tapas city first. Order one or two plates at a time, standing at the bar if it's crowded, then move on. Look for espinacas con garbanzos (spinach stewed with chickpeas and cumin), salmorejo (a thick cold tomato soup topped with ham and egg), fried fish and slow-cooked pork cheeks.
Drink sherry from the nearby triangle of Jerez, El Puerto de Santa María and Sanlúcar. A chilled fino or manzanilla is the right partner for anything salty or fried. Ask for tinto de verano, red wine with lemon soda, on a hot afternoon.
The Triana market sits beside the river on the site of an old castle. It's a good morning stop for coffee and a few bites. For a special dinner, book a table around 9:30 and expect long tables of local families arriving after you.
Honeymoon Tips
- Buy Alcázar and cathedral tickets on the official sites a week or more ahead in spring. Same-day lines can be long.
- Cover shoulders and knees for the cathedral and many churches.
- Plan outdoor sightseeing before 1 p.m. from June to September, then retreat to a pool or a shaded patio.
- Many hotels in narrow streets can't be reached by car, so pack bags you can roll over cobblestones.
- Holy Week and the April Fair change dates each year. Check the calendar before booking, as hotels can triple their rates.
- Small family bars may close for a few weeks in August.
- A flamenco show at 7 p.m. still leaves time for a 9:30 dinner.
