Getting Between Stops
This route needs a car for the countryside but not for the city. Bilbao to the Rioja wine villages is about an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half. From Rioja to San Sebastián is roughly two hours on good highways. Many couples return the first car in San Sebastián and collect another when they leave, which saves four days of city parking fees.
The longest leg is San Sebastián to the Picos de Europa, about three to three and a half hours along the coast. Roads in the mountains are narrow and winding, so allow extra time, especially in fog. In summer, private cars are restricted on the Covadonga lakes road for much of the day, with shuttle buses from Cangas de Onís.
For the flight home, Asturias Airport has domestic flights to Madrid, about an hour from Cangas. Bilbao is roughly two and a half hours from the eastern Picos if the seasonal Newark nonstop suits you.
Where to Stay
In La Rioja, Hotel Marqués de Riscal in Elciego is the headline stay, with its titanium ribbons rising over a historic winery and a spa offering wine-based treatments. Laguardia has small hotels inside its walls, while Haro puts you within walking distance of the station district wineries. A night or two in a winery guesthouse among the vines feels special.
In San Sebastián, Hotel Maria Cristina is the classic luxury choice and Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra sits right on the bay. Gros, across the river, is relaxed and close to the Zurriola surf beach. For a splurge with sea views, the hotel at Akelarre sits on the slope of Monte Igueldo.
In the Picos, Cangas de Onís is the main base. Arenas de Cabrales is closer to the Cares gorge. Rural hotels in old farmhouses are excellent value here, often around $100 to $250 a night as a rough guide.
When to Go
Late May to early October is the window. Trails in the Picos are clear, the days are long and San Sebastián's beaches are warm enough for swimming from June. September is the best single month for this route: the Rioja harvest begins, the summer crowds thin out and the sea is at its warmest.
July and August are lively and busy. San Sebastián hotels book up early and prices climb, especially around the film festival in September and the summer holiday weeks, so reserve months ahead.
Whatever the month, expect some rain. This is Atlantic Spain, which is why the hills are so green. Plan flexible days in the Picos so you can move a big hike if fog rolls in. October brings autumn color to the vineyards and quieter roads, though mountain weather becomes less reliable and some rural hotels start to close.
What It Costs
Northern Spain spans a wide price range. San Sebastián is the most expensive stop, with good hotels near La Concha running roughly $300 to $700 a night for two in season and Hotel Maria Cristina starting around $600, as approximate figures. The Picos are the opposite, with charming rural hotels at a fraction of that.
Rioja sits between the two. Small hotels in Laguardia and Haro are reasonably priced, while a night at Marqués de Riscal is a genuine splurge. Wine tastings are inexpensive compared with Napa or Bordeaux.
The biggest single cost may be dinner. Three-star tasting menus in San Sebastián cost several hundred dollars per person with wine pairings. Balance that with pintxo crawls, which are among the best-value great meals in Europe. Add rental cars, fuel, tolls and a driver for one tasting day in Rioja.
Tips for the Two of You
Agree on driving before the trip. Spain's drink-driving limit is lower than in most US states. In Rioja the easy answer is a driver or a small group tour on your main tasting day. In San Sebastián you will not need a car at all.
Pack layers and a light rain jacket for both of you, plus proper walking shoes with grip for the Cares gorge and the Covadonga trails. The Cares path has long drops beside it, so it suits couples comfortable with heights.
This trip gives each of you room for your own favorite. One partner might take a surf lesson at Zurriola while the other reads on La Concha. In the Picos, one of you can tackle a longer hike while the other takes the Fuente Dé cable car for the view. Book three-star restaurants and the Marqués de Riscal hotel as early as possible.
Make It Shorter or Longer
With eight days, skip the Picos and fly home from Bilbao. Three nights in Rioja and four in San Sebastián make a complete food and wine honeymoon on their own.
With two weeks, cross the border for three nights in Biarritz, about 45 minutes from San Sebastián, for surf, seawater spas and French Basque food. Or add two nights on the Cantabrian side of the Picos, in Potes near the Fuente Dé cable car, before flying home.
Couples who want a city at the start can take the train from Madrid to Logroño in about three and a half hours after two nights in the capital, then pick up a car there. If you would rather finish on a beach, swap the Picos for a flight south to Mallorca or Ibiza, both easy to reach with a connection through Barcelona.
