Why Honeymoon in Bordeaux
The combination of city and countryside is the main appeal. You can spend the morning at a market, take an afternoon tasting at a château and be back for dinner in a bustling square without long drives.
The city's historic center, called the Port of the Moon for the crescent bend of the Garonne, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It's made for walking, with long riverside quays, tram lines through the old town and grand façades lit up at night.
The vineyards provide the romance. Saint-Émilion is a medieval hill town with an underground church carved from the limestone. The Médoc is a flat sweep of famous estates along the Gironde estuary. Sauternes, to the south, makes sweet wines that pair beautifully with foie gras.
It suits couples who want a culinary honeymoon without the crowds of Paris or the price tag of the Riviera.
When to Go
May, June, September and early October are best. Spring brings green vines and mild days. The harvest, usually from mid-September into October, fills the countryside with activity and the smell of fermenting grapes.
July and August are warm and can be hot. Some châteaux reduce visits during the busiest weeks. Meanwhile Parisians head for the coast at Arcachon and Cap Ferret, which gets crowded.
The city's Bordeaux Wine Festival is held in some years along the quays in June. Check dates if you'd like to join a big outdoor tasting.
Winter is cool and damp, with gray skies and some estates closed to visitors. The city still has great restaurants and wine bars with lower hotel rates, but it isn't the best season for touring vineyards.
Where to Stay
Splitting your stay between the city and the vineyards works well.
In Bordeaux, the Golden Triangle between the Grand Théâtre and the cathedral is the elegant heart, with the InterContinental Bordeaux Le Grand Hotel right across from the opera. The Chartrons district, an old wine merchants' quarter by the river, is quieter with antique shops and cafés.
In the vineyards:
- Les Sources de Caudalie, near Martillac in the Pessac-Léognan area, is a wine spa hotel among the vines of Château Smith Haut Lafitte, about 20 minutes from the city.
- Hostellerie de Plaisance sits at the top of Saint-Émilion with views over the village rooftops.
- Château Grand Barrail, just outside Saint-Émilion, is a 19th-century château with a pool and spa.
Smaller château guesthouses in the Médoc and Entre-Deux-Mers offer a more personal stay.
Romantic Things to Do
At dusk, walk along the river to the Place de la Bourse, where the Miroir d'Eau, a vast shallow reflecting pool, mirrors the 18th-century façades. Kids splash in it by day; it's quieter and dreamier in the evening.
Spend a morning at La Cité du Vin, a striking museum about wine cultures around the world. The ticket includes a glass on the top-floor terrace with views over the city.
In Saint-Émilion, join a tour of the underground monolithic church and catacombs, then taste at a couple of estates and lunch on a terrace.
Drive the Médoc wine road through Margaux, Pauillac and Saint-Julien, with prebooked visits to two châteaux.
For a coastal day, climb the Dune du Pilat near Arcachon at sunset, then eat oysters at a waterside cabin on the Cap Ferret peninsula.
Getting There and Around
The TGV from Paris Montparnasse to Bordeaux Saint-Jean takes just over two hours, making the train the easiest option. Bordeaux-Mérignac Airport has connections through Paris and other European hubs but no US nonstops.
In the city, walk or use the tram, which links the station, the river and the main neighborhoods. You won't need a car.
For the vineyards, you have three choices: rent a car, book a private driver or join a small-group tour. A driver is worth considering if you plan to taste seriously, since French drink-driving limits are lower than in most US states. Saint-Émilion is about 45 minutes from the city by car; the Médoc châteaux are about an hour north.
Trains also run to Libourne near Saint-Émilion and to Arcachon on the coast, which works for day trips.
Food and Drink
Bordeaux's classic dish is entrecôte à la bordelaise, a rib steak with a red wine and shallot sauce. Lamb from Pauillac, duck from the southwest and lamprey, an old local specialty, also feature on menus. Canelés, small caramelized cakes with a custardy center, are the city's signature pastry.
At the coast, oysters from the Arcachon basin are eaten simply with lemon, bread and butter and a glass of white Entre-Deux-Mers.
The wine is the main event. Left Bank reds from the Médoc lean on cabernet sauvignon; the Right Bank, including Saint-Émilion and Pomerol, is merlot country. Don't skip the dry whites from Pessac-Léognan or the sweet golden wines of Sauternes.
Try Lillet, a local aperitif, as a spritz on a terrace before dinner. The Marché des Capucins is great for a market lunch of oysters and wine at the counters.
Honeymoon Tips
Book château visits in advance. Most estates require appointments. Many close on weekends and during harvest.
Two tastings a day is plenty. Three becomes a blur.
If you're keen on a famous first-growth estate, request a visit weeks ahead and know that some don't accept the public at all. Smaller estates are often more fun.
Shipping wine home is possible through many châteaux and shops. Ask about costs before you buy a case.
Pack comfortable shoes for Saint-Émilion's steep, slippery cobblestones.
Tell estates that you're on your honeymoon. Small family properties in particular sometimes pour something extra for newlyweds.
