Why Honeymoon in Biarritz
Biarritz became fashionable in the 1850s when Napoleon III and Empress Eugénie built a summer villa on the beach. That villa is now the Hôtel du Palais. The town still has a grand seaside look: villas, a casino, cliff walks and a lighthouse.
What keeps it fun is the surf culture layered on top. The Côte des Basques beach was one of the first places in Europe where people surfed. The town is relaxed and sporty rather than stuffy.
It also gives you two countries in one trip. Spain is a short drive away, so a dinner in San Sebastián or a morning in the Spanish fishing village of Hondarribia is easy to add.
When to Go
June and September are the best months. Days are warm, the light is long and lifeguards cover the main beaches. September often has the warmest water of the year.
July and August are busy, with festivals in Bayonne and Saint-Jean-de-Luz and high hotel prices. Book well ahead.
This is the Atlantic, so it rains more than the Mediterranean. Even summer can bring a gray, drizzly day, which is the time for a market, a spa or a drive into the hills.
October to April is quiet and green. Big winter swells draw experienced surfers but beach life fades. Spring is pleasant for walking the coastal path and eating well without crowds.
Where to Stay
For a splurge, the Hôtel du Palais sits right on the Grande Plage. It was built as the imperial villa, rebuilt after a fire in the early 1900s and is now part of Hyatt's Unbound Collection, with a seawater pool and grand rooms facing the Atlantic.
Around the Grande Plage and the old fishing port you can walk to everything. The Côte des Basques side is quieter and closer to the surf schools.
Saint-Jean-de-Luz, about 20 minutes south, is calmer and prettier, with a sheltered sandy bay that is better for swimming. Guéthary, between the two, is a small village of white and red Basque houses with a good surf break. Small boutique hotels and guesthouses are common along this stretch.
Romantic Things to Do
Take a surf lesson together at Côte des Basques or Anglet. Schools rent boards and wetsuits and the beginner waves are forgiving.
Walk out to the Rocher de la Vierge, a rock topped with a statue of the Virgin and joined by a footbridge, at sunset. Then follow the cliff path to the lighthouse for views up the coast.
Spend a morning in Saint-Jean-de-Luz, where Louis XIV married in the church of Saint-Jean-Baptiste. Its bay and pedestrian streets are lovely for an afternoon.
Ride the little cog railway up La Rhune, the mountain on the border, for views of the coast and the Pyrenees. Or drive to Espelette, a village hung with red chili peppers drying on its walls.
Getting There and Around
There are no nonstop flights from the US. Fly to Paris and connect to Biarritz Pays Basque Airport (BIQ), about an hour and a half, or take the TGV from Paris Montparnasse to Biarritz, roughly four hours. Another route is to fly into Bilbao in Spain via a European hub, then drive about 90 minutes.
The airport is about 10 minutes from town by taxi. Biarritz itself is walkable and local buses link it with Bayonne, Anglet and Saint-Jean-de-Luz. Regional trains run along the coast toward the border.
A car helps for Espelette, La Rhune and inland villages, but parking in Biarritz in August is painful. Rent one only for the days you need it.
Food and Drink
Basque cooking is a big reason to come. Start at Les Halles, the covered market in central Biarritz, where bars serve small plates, oysters and glasses of wine from the late morning.
Look for jambon de Bayonne, axoa, a veal and pepper stew. Then there is piperade, a sauté of peppers and tomato. Piment d'Espelette, a mild red chili, seasons almost everything. For dessert, gâteau basque is a buttery cake filled with cream or black cherry jam.
Drink Irouléguy, the local wine, or Basque cider. Across the border, San Sebastián is famous for pintxos bars and Michelin-starred restaurants, so plan at least one evening there.
Honeymoon Tips
Respect the ocean. Atlantic beaches here can have strong rip currents and big waves. Swim only between the flags where lifeguards are on duty, usually in summer. Never swim alone at an unguarded beach. If you get caught in a current, swim parallel to the shore.
Tides change the beaches a lot. At high tide some small coves disappear completely, so check the tide times before you settle in.
Pack layers. Evenings are cool even in August and a rain jacket is worth its space.
Dress in Biarritz is relaxed and stylish. Shorts are fine by day, while a nice shirt or dress works for evening restaurants and the casino.
