Why Honeymoon in Granada
The Alhambra alone justifies the trip. The Nasrid Palaces were the last royal residence of Muslim Spain, finished before the Catholic Monarchs took the city in 1492. Rooms like the Court of the Lions and the Hall of the Abencerrajes, with its star-shaped honeycomb ceiling, are as delicate as anything in Islamic architecture. The Generalife gardens add rose walks, clipped cypress and long water channels.
The rest of Granada is lived-in rather than staged. Students fill the tapas bars, tea shops on Calle Calderería pour mint tea into small glasses and the Sacromonte caves still host flamenco in whitewashed rooms cut into the hill.
It is also a strong value. Boutique hotels here cost far less than comparable rooms in Barcelona or the Balearics, which makes a splurge night at a view room easier to justify.
When to Go
Spring and fall are best. From March to May the gardens are in bloom, while days sit in the 60s and 70s. September and October bring warm afternoons and cooler nights that are lovely for terrace dinners.
July and August are hot, often in the mid-90s, though Granada's altitude gives cooler nights than Seville. Visit the Alhambra early or with a late afternoon ticket.
Winter can be surprisingly cold, with nights near freezing, but the days are often bright and the Sierra Nevada is white with snow. That backdrop makes December through February a quietly romantic season. Ski runs in the Sierra Nevada are less than an hour away for couples who want a day on the slopes. Crowds at the Alhambra drop noticeably too.
Where to Stay
The Albaicín is the place for views. Many small hotels here occupy old carmens or restored houses, with terraces that look straight across at the Alhambra. Expect steep cobbled lanes and limited car access. A taxi or the small city minibus will get you close.
Near the Alhambra itself, the Parador de Granada occupies a former convent inside the monument's grounds. It is the most coveted stay in the city and books far ahead. Hotel Alhambra Palace, a neo-Moorish building from 1910 on the same hill, has a terrace bar with a wide view over town.
For walking access to restaurants and shops, the flat center around Plaza Nueva and the cathedral is convenient. Palacio de los Patos is a polished option there, set in a 19th-century mansion with a spa and garden.
Romantic Things to Do
Walk up to the Mirador de San Nicolás for sunset, when the Alhambra glows red against the mountains. It gets crowded, so the quieter terraces at San Miguel Bajo or San Cristóbal are good alternatives.
Stroll the Carrera del Darro, a riverside lane beneath the Alhambra lined with stone bridges and old facades, to the Paseo de los Tristes at dusk. Book a night visit to the Alhambra if your dates allow. Seeing the palaces lit up is a very different experience from the daytime crowds.
Spend an evening at an Arab-style hammam, moving between warm and hot pools before a massage. Afterward, take a taxi up to the Sacromonte for flamenco in a cave, where the audience sits a few feet from the dancers.
Getting There and Around
Most US travelers reach Granada by train. The high-speed service from Madrid takes about three and a half hours, while trains from Seville take roughly two and a half to three. Granada's small airport has domestic flights from Madrid and Barcelona. Málaga Airport, about 90 minutes away by car or bus, has far more choice.
In town, walking is the best way to get around, though it involves hills. The C-series minibuses climb into the Albaicín, the Sacromonte and up to the Alhambra, saving your legs after a long day.
Rent a car only for day trips. The Alpujarras villages on the southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada are about 90 minutes away. The beaches of the Costa Tropical are about an hour south.
Food and Drink
Granada keeps the old custom of a free tapa with every drink. The plate often gets bigger with each round. In good bars it might be a small stew, fried eggplant with cane honey or a slice of tortilla. Three rounds can easily make dinner.
The city's Moorish past shows up on menus too. Look for dishes with cumin, almonds and dates, plus Moroccan-style tea houses in the Albaicín. Habas con jamón (broad beans with cured ham) and the hearty plato alpujarreño, with potatoes, sausage and fried egg, are local staples.
For a special meal, book a carmen restaurant in the Albaicín with a garden table facing the Alhambra. Order a bottle of wine from the Granada highlands, where small producers grow grapes at altitude.
Honeymoon Tips
- Book Alhambra tickets on the official site as soon as your dates are firm. The Nasrid Palaces sell out weeks ahead in spring and fall.
- Each ticket shows the passport name entered at booking, plus a 30-minute window for the Nasrid Palaces. Bring the passport itself and arrive early, since late arrivals are refused.
- Wear shoes with grip. Albaicín cobbles are steep and polished smooth.
- Pack a warm layer even in spring. Evenings at the viewpoints cool quickly.
- The upper Albaicín gets very quiet late at night. Stick to the main lanes or take a taxi or minibus back up after dinner. Keep phones out of sight at San Nicolás, where pickpockets work the sunset crowd.
- Don't drive into the Albaicín. Much of it is restricted to residents and taxis.
- Tapas bars are busiest after 9 p.m. Go a little earlier for a seat.
