Why Île de Ré Suits Honeymooners
The island's charm is its scale. Distances are short, the land is flat and more than 100 km of cycle paths link the villages, beaches and salt marshes. Many couples barely use a car once they arrive.
Saint-Martin-de-Ré, the main village, has a harbor ringed with cafés and 17th-century fortifications by Vauban that are part of a UNESCO World Heritage listing. Ars-en-Ré has a black-and-white church spire. La Flotte has an old fishing port. Both are just as pretty.
The rest is simple pleasures: riding past salt pans where workers rake fleur de sel, buying oysters straight from farmers and watching the sunset from long sandy beaches on the island's western end.
When to Go
June is lovely, with long days, green fields and hollyhocks in bloom along the village lanes. September is warm and calm. The sea is often at its warmest.
July and August are high season. Expect busy bike paths, full markets and prices at their highest. Book rooms months ahead if you must travel then.
May and early October are pleasant for cycling and quiet beach walks, although the water is cold. From November to March many hotels and restaurants close, but locals enjoy the empty lanes and oysters are at their best in colder months. Wind is common year-round, so bring a light jacket.
Where to Stay
Saint-Martin-de-Ré is the liveliest base, with the most restaurants and shops within walking distance. The Hôtel de Toiras, a Relais and Châteaux property in a 17th-century shipowner's house on the harbor, is the classic splurge.
La Flotte, a short ride east, is smaller and has its own harbor and medieval-style market. Ars-en-Ré and Loix, in the west, are quieter and close to the salt marshes and the wildest beaches.
Many visitors rent a cottage with a garden for a week, which suits couples who like to cook with market produce. Look for places with bikes included and air circulation for warm nights, since air conditioning is not universal.
Romantic Things to Do
Rent bikes and ride the paths across the island, stopping at cafés, salt marshes and beaches. Electric bikes make long days easy against the wind.
Climb the Phare des Baleines, the lighthouse at the island's northwestern tip, for views over the ocean and the marshes. Then walk down to the Conche des Baleines beach for a sunset picnic.
Visit a salt farmer at the marshes near Loix or Ars-en-Ré to see how sea salt is harvested by hand in summer.
Book a sailing trip from Saint-Martin or La Flotte, or take a boat to Fort Boyard and Île d'Aix in summer. In the evening, join the crowds in Saint-Martin's harbor for ice cream and a stroll along the walls.
Getting There and Around
Fly nonstop to Paris, then take the TGV from Paris Montparnasse to La Rochelle in about three hours. From the station, buses and taxis cross the bridge to the island. La Rochelle-Île de Ré Airport (LRH) has some seasonal European flights and is very close to the bridge.
Drivers pay a toll on the way onto the island only, with higher rates in summer. Cyclists and pedestrians cross free.
Once on the island, bikes are the best way to get around. Rental shops are in every village and many hotels arrange delivery. Parking in the villages can be scarce in summer, another reason to leave the car.
Food and Drink
Oysters are the island's pride. Small farm shacks around the marshes sell them by the dozen with a glass of white wine, often overlooking the oyster beds.
Île de Ré potatoes are famous enough to have their own protected status. They are harvested in spring and early summer and served simply with butter and salt.
Fleur de sel and salicornia, a crunchy sea vegetable, appear on many menus. Fish and mussels are excellent, especially mouclade, mussels in a curry-cream sauce from the region.
The island also produces wine and Pineau des Charentes, a sweet aperitif. Cognac country is about an hour and a half inland for a day of distillery visits.
Honeymoon Tips
Book bikes early in summer and lock them every time you stop, since theft does happen at busy spots.
Some west-coast beaches have strong currents and waves. Swim at guarded beaches in season and stay between the flags. On the north side, the water is often shallow and good for wading at high tide.
Bring sun protection: the island is flat and breezy and you can burn easily without noticing.
Dress here is relaxed island chic. Linen and sneakers work everywhere, even for dinner in Saint-Martin. Reserve dinner tables in summer. Remember that many restaurants close one or two days a week outside July and August.
