Why Honeymoon in Lyon
Lyon is a city for eating well at every price. Traditional bouchons serve hearty Lyonnais dishes on checked tablecloths, while the city also has a deep bench of acclaimed restaurants tied to the legacy of Paul Bocuse.
It is also very pretty. Vieux Lyon's cobbled lanes hide traboules, covered passageways through buildings that silk workers once used. Up the hill, the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière and the Roman theaters look over the rooftops.
The city has a relaxed rhythm. Locals linger on the riverbanks, students fill the Croix-Rousse cafés and there is enough art and history to fill rainy afternoons without feeling like a checklist.
Best Seasons
Spring and fall are ideal. April to June brings blossom on the hills and terraces opening along the Saône. September and October are warm and golden, with grape harvest in nearby Beaujolais.
July and August are often hot and some family restaurants close for part of August. The Nuits de Fourvière festival brings concerts and theater to the Roman amphitheater in early summer, which makes for a memorable evening.
The Fête des Lumières runs over several nights around December 8. It is crowded but spectacular, with candles in windows and light shows on buildings. Book rooms months ahead. Winter otherwise is gray and chilly, which suits long lunches.
Where to Stay
Vieux Lyon is the romantic choice. Villa Florentine sits on the slope below Fourvière with views across the city. Cour des Loges occupies a group of Renaissance houses around a glass-roofed courtyard.
On the Presqu'île, the InterContinental Lyon Hotel Dieu is set in a grand former hospital on the Rhône, close to shops and restaurants.
Croix-Rousse, the old silk weavers' hill, has a village feel and good small hotels and apartments. Confluence, at the southern tip of the peninsula, is modern and less charming for a short stay. For a quiet walk home after dinner, aim for Vieux Lyon or the area near Place Bellecour.
Romantic Things to Do
Take the funicular up to Fourvière at sunset and look over the city to the Alps on a clear day. Walk back down through the Jardin du Rosaire.
Explore the traboules of Vieux Lyon and Croix-Rousse. Many are open to the public in the daytime. Pick up a map at the tourist office.
Book a cooking class or a food walking tour to learn Lyonnais classics and sample cheeses, charcuterie and pralines.
Stroll the Saône quays in the evening, or rent bikes from the city system and ride along the Rhône to the Parc de la Tête d'Or, a large park with a rose garden and lake for rowing.
On a free day, head north to Beaujolais for tastings among golden stone villages.
Getting There and Around
There are no nonstop flights from the US to Lyon, so most couples fly into Paris CDG and take the TGV. Trains from the CDG airport station reach Lyon in about two hours, as do trains from Paris Gare de Lyon. Lyon Saint-Exupéry (LYS) has many European connections. The Rhônexpress tram links it to Part-Dieu station in about 30 minutes.
In the city, you need no car. The metro, trams and funiculars are simple and the center is walkable. Taxis and ride-hailing apps are easy at night.
Lyon makes a handy gateway: Beaune is about 1 hour 45 minutes by car, Annecy about 1.5 hours and Avignon roughly an hour by TGV.
Food and Drink
A bouchon dinner is a must. Expect quenelles de brochet, fish dumplings in a creamy sauce, salade lyonnaise with bacon and poached egg, andouillette sausage and saucisson brioché. Look for restaurants with the Les Bouchons Lyonnais label to find traditional places.
Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse, the covered market, is the place for oysters, cheeses such as Saint-Marcellin and pastries. Pink praline tart, bright and sweet, is the local dessert.
Lyon sits between two great wine areas. Beaujolais lies to the north and the northern Rhône, with Côte-Rôtie and Condrieu, to the south. House wine is often served in a pot lyonnais, a thick-bottomed bottle.
Honeymoon Tips
Reserve dinners ahead, especially on Friday and Saturday. Many bouchons are small and some close on Sundays and Mondays.
Portions are generous and rich, so plan a lighter lunch if you have a big dinner booked.
Lyon is generally safe, but watch for pickpockets around Part-Dieu station and busy shopping streets. The US State Department rates France Level 2, mainly for terrorism and civil unrest. Strikes and protests occasionally affect transport, so keep an eye on local news.
Wear comfortable shoes for the cobbled streets and steep hills. Dress smart casual for nice restaurants. Jeans and a good shirt or a simple dress will fit in at most places.
