Why Honeymoon in Alsace
Charm is concentrated here in a way that's hard to find elsewhere. Colmar's old town, with its canals and colorful houses, is compact enough to wander in a morning. The wine villages along the Route des Vins, such as Riquewihr, Eguisheim and Kaysersberg, sit only a few miles apart.
The wine is a big draw. Alsace is one of the few French regions that labels wines by grape: riesling, gewurztraminer, pinot gris, pinot blanc and muscat. Many producers are small family estates in the villages themselves, so tastings feel personal.
The region also suits couples who love food. Strasbourg and the villages have many Michelin-starred restaurants for their size, along with traditional winstubs serving hearty plates and local wine by the pitcher.
It's an easy add-on from Paris by train. It also combines well with Champagne or with a short hop into Switzerland or Germany's Black Forest.
When to Go
May and June bring green vineyards, flower boxes and mild weather. September and October are harvest months, with golden vines, new wine festivals and pleasant temperatures. These are the best times for wine-focused trips.
July and August are warm and busy, especially in Colmar and Riquewihr, where tour buses arrive by mid-morning. Stay in a quieter village and explore early or late.
The Christmas market season runs from late November through December. Strasbourg's market dates back to 1570 and is among the oldest in Europe. Colmar, Kaysersberg, Riquewihr and Eguisheim have their own markets, each decorated with lights and greenery. It's a cozy, romantic time but crowded on weekends, so plan weekday visits and book hotels months in advance.
January through March is cold and quiet. Many hotels and restaurants close for a winter break.
Where to Stay
- Colmar: the most convenient base, with train links, many restaurants and the canals of Little Venice. La Maison des Têtes is a historic hotel in a 17th-century building decorated with carved faces on its façade.
- Wine villages: Riquewihr, Eguisheim, Kaysersberg and Ribeauvillé have small hotels and guesthouses inside medieval walls. Evenings are quiet once day visitors leave.
- Strasbourg: a lively city with a grand cathedral and the canals of Petite France. Good for a night or two of city life.
- Northern Alsace: Villa René Lalique in Wingen-sur-Moder is a luxury hotel and restaurant set in the glass designer's former home, with Lalique crystal throughout.
Many couples split their time: two nights in a wine village or Colmar, then one or two in Strasbourg. Book well ahead for December.
Romantic Things to Do
Take a flat-bottomed boat ride through Little Venice in Colmar, gliding under footbridges and past flower-covered houses. See the Isenheim Altarpiece at the Unterlinden Museum.
Drive or cycle the Route des Vins between villages. Eguisheim, built in concentric circles around its castle, is especially lovely early in the morning. In Riquewihr, climb the Dolder tower and taste at a family estate. In Kaysersberg, walk up to the ruined castle for views over the rooftops.
Visit Haut-Kœnigsbourg, a restored medieval castle high above the plain with views to the Black Forest on a clear day.
In Strasbourg, climb the cathedral platform, see its astronomical clock and take a boat tour around the island center. At Christmas, sip vin chaud from a market stall and wander under the lights.
Getting There and Around
From Paris Gare de l'Est, the TGV reaches Strasbourg in under two hours and Colmar in roughly two and a half. EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse, on the Swiss border, is about 45 minutes from Colmar and has connections across Europe. Strasbourg has its own smaller airport.
A car is the easiest way to see the wine route. The road winds about 100 miles from north to south, but the most popular villages cluster within a short drive of Colmar. Parking lots sit outside the village walls.
If you'd rather not drive, regional buses connect Colmar with several villages. Bike paths run through the vineyards. E-bike rentals in Colmar and the villages are a fun way to taste wine without worrying about driving.
Strasbourg's center is walkable, with trams for longer hops.
Food and Drink
Alsatian food is generous. Tarte flambée, or flammekueche, is a thin flatbread topped with crème fraîche, onions and bacon, best shared hot from a wood oven. Choucroute garnie piles sauerkraut with sausages and pork. Baeckeoffe is a slow-baked casserole of meats and potatoes sealed in a clay pot.
Save room for munster cheese, kougelhopf cake and, in December, bredele Christmas cookies.
The wines are mostly white and many are dry. Riesling and pinot gris pair beautifully with the local food. Gewurztraminer is aromatic and often slightly sweet. Crémant d'Alsace is a good-value sparkling wine.
Eat at least once in a winstub, a traditional wine tavern with wood paneling and checkered tablecloths. For a special dinner, the region has a high density of starred restaurants.
Honeymoon Tips
Stay in a village rather than doing day trips from Strasbourg. Evenings after the crowds leave are the best part.
Visit popular villages early in the morning or late in the afternoon, especially in summer and December.
Book December hotels as early as possible. Christmas market season fills rooms months ahead.
Many wine producers welcome visitors without appointments, but avoid lunchtime when cellars often close.
Pack warm clothes for December. Temperatures often hover around freezing. You'll spend hours outdoors at the markets.
Remember that some restaurants close one or two days a week. Check before driving to a particular place for dinner.