Why Honeymoon in Champagne
Few places mix celebration and setting so naturally. Every visit ends with a toast. The cellars themselves are atmospheric: chalk tunnels and Roman-era pits lit by candles and lined with bottles.
The region's hillsides, houses and cellars were listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2015. Reims Cathedral, where French kings were crowned for centuries, is a Gothic masterpiece with stained glass by Marc Chagall.
Champagne also offers variety within a small area. The big houses run polished tours and tastings, while the small growers in the villages often pour for you at their kitchen table. In between are forest walks, cycling routes and riverside picnics along the Marne.
It suits couples who want a short, luxurious add-on to Paris rather than a long trek. You can spend three nights here and still have plenty of honeymoon left for the south or the Alps.
When to Go
May, June and September are lovely. The vines are green, the weather is mild and the villages are lively without being crowded.
The harvest, called the vendange, usually runs for a few weeks starting in late August or September depending on the year. It's an exciting time to visit, though small growers may be too busy to host tastings.
July and August are warm and popular, but the cellars stay cool year-round. Bring a sweater for tours whatever the season, since temperatures underground hover in the low 50s.
Winter is quiet and gray. Some smaller producers close. The big houses in Reims and Épernay stay open. December also brings a Christmas market in Reims, making the cellars a cozy holiday stop. Late autumn, when the vines turn gold, is underrated.
Where to Stay
- Reims: the larger city, with the cathedral, many famous houses and a good restaurant scene. Domaine Les Crayères is a grand manor hotel set in a park beside the Pommery estate, with a celebrated restaurant.
- Épernay: smaller and quieter, with the Avenue de Champagne lined with famous houses. It's a convenient base for the Côte des Blancs and the Marne valley.
- Champillon: Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa sits on a hillside above the vineyards between Épernay and Reims, with every room facing the slopes and a large spa. It's one of the most romantic stays in the region.
- Villages: in Avize, Hautvillers and other villages, family growers run small guesthouses where breakfast might come with a glass of their own wine.
Two nights in a vineyard hotel and one in Reims works well for a short stay.
Romantic Things to Do
Tour the cellars of a major house in Reims. Ruinart, Taittinger, Veuve Clicquot and Pommery all have dramatic chalk pits underground. Book ahead, since some sell out weeks in advance.
Walk the Avenue de Champagne in Épernay, where Moët & Chandon and other houses sit in grand mansions above miles of cellars.
Visit Hautvillers, the hilltop village where the monk Dom Pérignon worked and is buried. The views over the Marne valley at sunset are lovely.
Drive the Côte des Blancs through Cramant, Avize and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, stopping at small growers. Many sell outstanding blanc de blancs made only from chardonnay.
Hike or cycle in the Montagne de Reims regional park, where the twisted beech trees of the Faux de Verzy grow. Some operators offer hot-air balloon flights over the vineyards in the warmer months.
Getting There and Around
From Paris Gare de l'Est, TGV trains reach Reims in about 45 minutes. Some TGVs also run directly from Charles de Gaulle airport to Champagne-Ardenne TGV station just outside Reims, a handy option if you're heading straight there after your flight. Épernay has slower regional trains from Paris and Reims.
In Reims, the center is walkable. The tram links the station and main sights. Many famous houses are within a short taxi ride.
To visit growers and villages, you'll need a car, a driver or a tour. A private driver lets you both taste freely and is worth the cost for a day. Distances are short; Reims to Épernay takes about 30 minutes by road.
Cycling is popular too. E-bike rentals in Épernay and Hautvillers make the hills manageable.
Food and Drink
Champagne pairs with more than you'd think. Try it with local specialties such as Reims ham, mild and creamy Chaource cheese or the pungent Langres. The pink biscuits of Reims are traditionally dipped in a glass of bubbly.
Look for still wines too. Coteaux Champenois are rare still reds and whites from the region. Rosé des Riceys is a still pink wine made in the south of the appellation.
Reims has several excellent restaurants, from Michelin-starred tables to brasseries on the Place Drouet d'Erlon. In Épernay, wine bars along the main streets pour flights from many producers, which is a good way to compare styles.
If you visit growers, ask about their extra brut or non-dosage wines, which are drier and show off the chalky soil.
Honeymoon Tips
Book big-house tours a few weeks in advance, especially for weekends. Ask about tours in English.
Mix grand houses with small growers. The houses offer history and spectacle; the growers offer personal stories and better value.
Bring a light jacket for cellar visits. It's chilly underground even in July.
Many small growers can't ship to the US. Pack a wine suitcase or buy padded bottle sleeves if you plan to bring bottles home in checked bags.
Don't plan more than three tastings in a day. Champagne goes down easily and adds up.
Tell your hotel and the houses that you're on your honeymoon. In a region built on celebrations, people tend to raise a glass with you.
