Why Honeymoon in Big Sur
Big Sur is romance at its most elemental. The scale of the coastline, the drama of the cliffs and the hush of the redwood groves make everyday life feel very far away. It is a place for long conversations, slow meals and doing very little. The hotels here are built around exactly that idea.
It also suits couples who want something different from a beach honeymoon. You will not spend your days on a lounger; you will hike to waterfalls, spot whales and California condors, soak in hot tubs above the ocean and eat at restaurants whose views are as memorable as the food. Best of all, it requires no passport and, for many West Coast couples, not even a flight.
When to Go
Big Sur's seasons are subtle but important:
- September to October: the best time for most couples, with the clearest skies, warm days and thinner crowds after summer.
- April to May: wildflowers, green hillsides and waterfalls running strong, with pleasant temperatures.
- June to August: busy, with frequent marine fog, sometimes called June Gloom, that can hide the coast for much of the day; staying above the fog line at a ridgetop hotel means looking down on a sea of clouds.
- November to March: quieter and moodier, with storms that can bring road closures but also dramatic seas and the gray whale migration offshore.
Whatever the season, pack layers. Temperatures can swing widely between foggy coast, sunny ridges and shaded canyons.
Where to Stay
Big Sur's lodging ranges from campgrounds and rustic cabins to two of the most celebrated hotels in America, which sit across Highway 1 from each other.
Post Ranch Inn is the famous one: about 40 architect-designed houses on a ridge high above the Pacific, from Cliff Houses with outdoor soaking tubs to triangular Tree Houses with skylights over the bed. It holds the Michelin Guide's top Three Keys distinction. Its restaurant, Sierra Mar, has a Michelin Green Star and a Wine Spectator Grand Award wine list. There are no TVs, which is entirely the point.
Ventana Big Sur, an Alila resort, spreads across 160 acres of meadow and redwoods on the mountain side of the highway. Resort stays include dining at The Sur House; suites come with fireplaces and private hot tubs. Its Japanese hot baths and redwood-canyon glamping tents give it a more playful, outdoorsy feel. Both typically run from roughly $1,500 to well over $3,000 a night in peak season (approximate).
For a gentler budget, Big Sur has a handful of historic lodges and cabins, or you can base yourselves in Carmel and drive down for the day.
Romantic Things to Do
Start with the drive itself: Bixby Bridge, the arched span that appears on a thousand postcards, is roughly 13 miles south of Carmel. Farther south, McWay Falls, in Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, drops onto a pristine cove and is one of the most romantic views on the coast. Pfeiffer Beach, down a narrow canyon road, is known for its purple-tinged sand and the keyhole arch that glows at sunset in winter.
Walk among the redwoods in Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park and stop at the Henry Miller Memorial Library for books and live events. Watch for condors along the cliffs. Point Lobos, just south of Carmel, has some of the most beautiful coastal walks in California. End your day with a sunset drink on a terrace high above the Pacific.
Getting There & Around
Highway 1 is Big Sur's lifeline. Landslides have closed sections of it repeatedly in recent years. Even when the full route is open, Caltrans may run one-way traffic control at work zones (such as near Rocky Creek Bridge and Mud Creek) and schedule occasional daytime closures for slope work. Conditions can change quickly in winter storms, so always check Caltrans QuickMap or roads.dot.ca.gov before you set out.
Monterey Regional Airport (MRY) is the closest, about an hour from central Big Sur. San Jose and San Francisco are roughly two and a half to three hours away. From Los Angeles, allow most of a day for the scenic drive north. You will need a car; fill up before you arrive, since gas stations are few and expensive.
Food & Drink
Dining in Big Sur is about setting as much as cuisine. Sierra Mar at Post Ranch Inn and The Sur House at Ventana are the two special-occasion choices, each looking far out over the ocean. Nepenthe, a cliffside institution with a terrace that seems to hang over the coast, is a classic stop for lunch and a glass of wine.
Elsewhere, roadside bakeries, riverside lodges and casual cafés serve hearty breakfasts, wood-fired bread and pastries that travel well in a picnic basket. Carmel and Monterey, to the north, add a wider range of restaurants and wine-tasting rooms. Many places keep limited hours, especially off-season, so check before you go and book dinners in advance.
Honeymoon Tips
Download offline maps and music before you drive in, since cell service is patchy for much of the coast. Plan to drive in daylight: the highway is narrow, winding and unlit. Besides, the views are the reason you came. Use the turnouts to let faster local traffic pass.
Book your hotel well in advance, especially for weekends and fall. Reserve dinner at Sierra Mar or The Sur House when you confirm your room. Pack layers, sturdy shoes and a warm jacket for evenings. The surf at Pfeiffer Beach and most Big Sur coves is cold and dangerous, with sneaker waves, so enjoy it from the sand. If your dates fall in winter, keep an eye on the forecast and build a buffer day into your itinerary in case a storm affects the road.
