Why Honeymoon in Glacier National Park
Few American parks feel as wild as Glacier. Grizzly bears, mountain goats, bighorn sheep and moose all live here. The landscape looks closer to Switzerland than to the rest of the Rockies, with sharp horns and arêtes, waterfalls tumbling from hanging valleys and turquoise lakes below.
It also has a strong sense of history. The Great Northern Railway built a chain of Swiss style hotels and chalets here in the early 1900s to lure visitors west. Several still operate. Staying in one, with a lake out front and a fireplace in the lobby, gives a trip a romantic, old fashioned feel.
The park works for different comfort levels. You can see a great deal from the road, a boat or a guided red bus tour, but there are also hundreds of miles of trails, from short lakeside walks to long climbs over passes. Couples who like to hike will be happiest, but it is not required.
When to Go
July, August and early September are the main season. Going-to-the-Sun Road typically opens fully between late June and mid July, depending on how long crews take to clear snow. It usually stays open until mid October, weather permitting. July brings wildflowers and waterfalls at full flow, while August is warmest and the high trails are mostly snow free.
September is quieter, with cooler days, fall color on the larches and aspens and a better chance to see wildlife. Some lodges and services begin closing in mid to late September.
Wildfire smoke can affect visibility in late summer. Fires occasionally close roads or trails. From October to May, much of the park is snowbound and most services close, although the west side near Lake McDonald remains accessible for winter walks and cross country skiing. The park has used timed vehicle reservations for some areas in recent summers, so check current rules on the National Park Service website.
Where to Stay
Inside the park, the historic lodges are the classic choice. Lake McDonald Lodge, on the west side, is a 1913 lodge with a hunting lodge style lobby and a lakefront setting. Many Glacier Hotel, on Swiftcurrent Lake on the east side, is a grand Swiss chalet style hotel surrounded by peaks and trailheads; it is one of the best bases for hiking. Rooms are simple and often small, but the settings are hard to beat. Book as early as possible.
For more comfort, Whitefish, about 30 minutes from West Glacier, has modern hotels, resorts and vacation rentals. The Lodge at Whitefish Lake is a well known lakeside resort. West Glacier and Columbia Falls also have cabins and lodges just outside the park, including some glamping camps with canvas tents and private bathrooms.
On the east side, East Glacier Park and St. Mary have smaller lodges and motels. Splitting your stay between west and east cuts down on driving.
Romantic Things to Do
- Drive Going-to-the-Sun Road at sunrise or late afternoon, stopping at turnouts for views of waterfalls and valleys.
- Hike the Highline Trail from Logan Pass along a ledge above the valley, watching for mountain goats and bighorn sheep.
- Take a boat cruise across Swiftcurrent and Josephine lakes in Many Glacier, then hike to Grinnell Lake.
- Rent a kayak or canoe on Lake McDonald at sunrise when the water is glassy.
- Join a guided red bus tour in a vintage open top bus with a driver who narrates the history.
- Walk the Trail of the Cedars and Avalanche Lake trail through old growth forest to a lake ringed with waterfalls.
- Hike to a backcountry chalet such as Granite Park Chalet for lunch and views.
- Stargaze from a dark lakeshore on a clear night.
Getting There and Around
Glacier Park International Airport (FCA) near Kalispell is about 30 minutes from West Glacier, with nonstop flights in summer from a number of US cities and year round connections through hubs such as Denver, Seattle, Salt Lake City and Minneapolis. Missoula (MSO) is about 2.5 hours away. Amtrak's Empire Builder train stops at West Glacier and East Glacier Park, a fun option for couples coming from Chicago, Seattle or Portland.
You will need a car to explore, unless you rely on tours. A free park shuttle typically runs along Going-to-the-Sun Road in summer. Parking at Logan Pass fills early in the day. Vehicles over a certain length are restricted on the steepest part of the road, so check before renting a large vehicle.
The east side of the park, including Many Glacier and Two Medicine, is reached by driving around or over the mountains, which takes time. Plan your days by region.
Food and Drink
Dining in the park is simple and hearty, with lodge dining rooms serving trout, bison burgers, salads and huckleberry desserts. Huckleberries are a regional obsession. You will see them in pies, ice cream, lemonade and cocktails all over Montana. Try them at least once.
Whitefish has the area's best restaurants, with steakhouses, farm to table bistros and breweries. Columbia Falls and West Glacier have casual cafés and pizza spots. The small Polebridge Mercantile near the North Fork is famous for its huckleberry bear claw pastries.
For a celebratory dinner, book a table at a lodge dining room with a lake view, or plan a picnic of local cheese and bread at a quiet lakeshore. Pack water and snacks for long days on the road and trails, since food options inside the park are limited and lines can be long in peak season.
Honeymoon Tips
Bears are real. Glacier has both grizzly and black bears. Carry bear spray on every hike, know how to use it, make noise on the trail and never approach wildlife. Store food properly at lodges and campgrounds.
Start early. Parking at Logan Pass and popular trailheads fills by morning. Early starts mean cooler air and more wildlife.
Weather changes quickly in the mountains. Snow can fall in any month at high elevations. Afternoon storms can bring lightning. Bring layers, rain gear and sturdy shoes.
Cell service is very limited in the park. Download maps and the park app before arriving. Tell someone your hiking plans. Check road status each morning, because construction, snow, rockfall or wildfires can close sections without much notice. Finally, consider adding a day or two in Waterton Lakes National Park across the border in Canada, which shares the same mountains; bring your passports.
