Why Honeymoon in Český Krumlov
Few places in Europe give you this much atmosphere in so small a space. The castle complex covers about seven hectares, with some 40 buildings around five courtyards and a long terraced garden. It belonged in turn to the Rosenbergs, the Eggenbergs and the Schwarzenbergs, each of whom left a mark.
The castle's Baroque theater, built in the 1680s, is one of the few in the world with its original stage machinery and scenery still in place. The castle moat is still home to bears, a tradition dating back centuries.
Below the castle, the old town is a maze of guesthouses, galleries and small restaurants. The river runs past back gardens and terraces. The town works best as a pause between bigger cities, a place to sleep late, eat slowly and walk without a plan.
When to Go
May, June and September offer the best mix. The castle runs its full tour program, the gardens are green and evenings are mild enough to dine outside by the river. September has fewer families than midsummer and still warm days.
July and August are the busiest months and the best time for canoeing, when outfitters rent boats daily and the river is warm enough to enjoy a splash. Book rooms early and plan to explore in the morning and evening. The Five-Petalled Rose Festival, held on the weekend nearest the summer solstice, fills the town with costumes, jousting and fireworks. It is fun, but rooms sell out fast.
The castle interiors close in the colder months. Winter is quiet and often foggy, with a few cozy cafes, a Christmas market in December and very few visitors. It can be lovely for a short, slow stay.
Where to Stay
Stay inside the historic center if you can. Most hotels are small guesthouses in old townhouses with beamed ceilings, thick stone walls and sometimes a view of the castle tower. Ask specifically for a room with a river or castle view, which often costs only a little more.
Hotel Růže, set in a former Jesuit college high above the river, is the town's best known upscale option. Its best rooms look across the rooftops to the castle.
Latrán, the district on the castle side of the river, is quieter at night and close to the castle gates. The old town across the river has more restaurants.
If you have a car, consider a farmhouse or a lake hotel outside town for a night or two. Lipno, a large reservoir to the south, has resort hotels, walking trails and cycling paths through forest.
Romantic Things to Do
Climb the castle tower at the end of the day for the best view of the river loop and the rooftops. Then walk across the Cloak Bridge, a multilevel covered bridge that links parts of the castle high above a ravine.
Take a guided tour of the castle interiors and, if you can, the Baroque theater. Wander the castle garden to see the revolving open air auditorium, which turns the audience to face different stages during summer performances.
In warm weather, rent a canoe or a raft and float through town over the small weirs. Longer trips continue downstream to the Cistercian monastery at Zlatá Koruna.
The Egon Schiele Art Centrum shows work by the Austrian painter, whose mother came from the town. For a view from a different angle, hike up to the Kleť observatory on the nearest mountain or drive to Hluboká, a white neo-Gothic castle about 40 minutes away.
Getting There and Around
From Prague, comfortable private buses run directly to Český Krumlov in about three hours. They are usually simpler than the train, which requires a change in České Budějovice. Shuttle companies run door to door minivans from Prague, Vienna, Salzburg and Linz, which works well with luggage.
If you are driving, Prague is about 2.5 hours away, Linz about 1.5 hours and Vienna about three. The historic center is mostly closed to traffic. Hotels will tell you where to park. Many have permits or arrangements with nearby lots.
Once you are in town, walk everywhere. The bus station is a ten minute walk uphill from the center. Taxis can take tired couples and heavy suitcases. Cobblestones are uneven, so wheeled bags can be noisy work. Pack light if you can.
Food and Drink
South Bohemian cooking leans on the river and the forest. Look for trout and carp, wild game in autumn, mushrooms and roast duck. Several taverns in the center cook over open flames in medieval style settings, which makes for a cozy dinner on a cool evening.
Eggenberg Brewery, in the former castle brewery, makes the local beer. It runs tours and has a large beer garden. Budvar, the original Budweiser, is brewed in nearby České Budějovice and offers brewery tours too.
For dinner on a summer night, choose a terrace above the river and arrive early, as tables go quickly. Small cafes serve good coffee and cake in the afternoon. Wine lists include Moravian whites, which pair well with local fish. Restaurants in the town center get busy between 7 and 9, so reserve if you have a particular place in mind.
Honeymoon Tips
Stay at least one night. Two is better. Day trippers see the town at its busiest. Overnight guests see it empty and lit up.
Book castle tours online ahead of time in summer, especially for English language slots and the Baroque theater, which has limited spaces.
Walk the lanes before breakfast. The light on the castle tower is beautiful early in the morning and you will have the bridges to yourselves.
Pack shoes with good grip for steep cobbled lanes and castle stairs. Bring a light jacket even in summer, because evenings by the river cool quickly.
If you are heading on to Moravia or Vienna, a rental car or private transfer lets you stop at Hluboká Castle or the lakeside town of Třeboň along the way.
