Why Honeymoon in Salzburg
Salzburg packs a lot of romance into a very small area. In a single day you can ride a funicular to a medieval fortress, wander lanes lined with wrought iron shop signs, eat in a restaurant that claims roots going back to the year 803 and end with a candlelit concert of Mozart's music a few steps from where he was born.
The setting matters as much as the buildings. Two forested hills, the Mönchsberg and the Kapuzinerberg, rise right out of town with walking paths and viewpoints over the rooftops. Lakes, mountains and castle hotels lie within an hour. You get a city break and a countryside escape in the same trip, with no need to change hotels.
When to Go
May, June and September are the best months for walking the old town and taking lake day trips, with mild weather and longer days. July and August are busy. The Salzburg Festival runs from late July through August, which fills hotels, raises prices and adds opera, concerts and theater of the highest standard. If you want to attend, book tickets and rooms months ahead.
December is the other peak. The Christkindlmarkt fills the Cathedral and Residence squares. Nearby Oberndorf hosts the chapel where "Silent Night" was first sung in 1818. January through March is cold and quiet, which some couples prefer. November is often the dreariest month, with rain and short days.
Where to Stay
The old town on the left bank is the most atmospheric base, with Hotel Goldener Hirsch near the Festival halls a long-standing favorite. Across the river, the right bank has Hotel Sacher Salzburg right on the Salzach with views of the fortress, plus Linzergasse and the area near Mirabell, which feel a little more lived in.
For something quieter, Hotel Schloss Mönchstein sits in its own park on top of the Mönchsberg, a short elevator ride above the old town. Schloss Leopoldskron, the lakeside palace that is a fixture of Sound of Music tours, also takes overnight guests.
If you would rather wake up to lake views, stay in the Salzkammergut and visit the city by bus or car.
Romantic Things to Do
Take the FestungsBahn funicular to Hohensalzburg Fortress early, then walk the Mönchsberg ridge path west toward the modern art museum for one of the best views of the domes. Wander down through St. Peter's cemetery, carved partly into the cliff.
Mirabell Gardens are prettiest in the evening, with the fortress lit up across the river. Book a Mozart concert at the Mirabell Palace Marble Hall or a dinner concert in the Baroque hall at St. Peter. A Sound of Music tour is cheesy but fun if either of you grew up on the film.
For a day out, ride the cable car up the Untersberg, tour the Hallein salt mine with its wooden slides or cross into Germany for a boat ride on the Königssee.
Getting There and Around
Salzburg Airport is small and close to town, served mostly by European flights; buses and taxis reach the center in about 20 minutes. Many Americans arrive via Munich instead, which has more US nonstops and direct trains to Salzburg in roughly two hours. From Vienna, Railjet and WestBahn trains take under three hours.
The old town is largely car-free, so walking is the way to see it. Trolleybuses cover the rest of the city. The Salzburg Card, sold in 24, 48 and 72 hour versions, covers public transport, the fortress funicular and most sights, which can pay off if you plan a busy day.
For the lakes, buses run to St. Gilgen and the Wolfgangsee, though a rental car gives more freedom.
Food and Drink
Salzburg cooking is hearty Alpine food with a sweet tooth. Try Kasnocken, cheese dumplings with fried onions. Save room for Salzburger Nockerl, a towering soufflé meant to look like the snowy peaks around the city. It is made for two, which is convenient.
Stiftskeller St. Peter is touristy but undeniably grand. The Augustiner Bräustübl, where monks have brewed since 1621, is a huge beer hall with a chestnut-shaded garden: pick up a stein from the barrel and buy food from the market stalls inside.
Café Tomaselli on the Alter Markt is the oldest coffeehouse in town. Café Bazar has a terrace over the river. Buy Mozartkugeln at Fürst, the confectioner that created them.
Honeymoon Tips
- Book Salzburg Festival tickets well in advance; the main sales window opens months before summer.
- Walk the old town in the early morning or evening. Midday crowds from tour buses are heavy in summer.
- Mirabell Palace's Marble Hall is a popular civil wedding venue, so check the schedule if you want to see it in quiet.
- Pack layers. Salzburg gets more rain than many visitors expect. Summer storms roll in fast from the Alps.
- Pick up picnic supplies on Saturday; most shops are closed on Sunday.
- Check whether your hotel includes a Salzburg Card or a city transit pass.
