Why Honeymoon in Volcanoes National Park
This is where Dian Fossey studied gorillas from 1967 until her death in 1985. Her work helped save the species. Today, the park is the most accessible place in the world to see mountain gorillas, with good roads from Kigali and a well-organized permit system.
The encounter itself is intimate. Groups are capped at eight visitors per gorilla family. Your hour is spent watching mothers nurse, youngsters play and silverbacks keep an eye on everyone. It is quiet, emotional and often funny.
The setting adds to it. The volcanoes form a dramatic skyline. The lodges are designed for couples, with private fireplaces and views. Cool mountain air makes for cozy evenings while early treks leave long afternoons for doing nothing at all.
When to Go
Gorilla trekking runs all year. The best conditions come in the dry seasons, from about June to September and again from mid-December to February. Trails are firmer and views of the volcanoes are clearer.
The long rains, roughly March to May, bring heavy downpours and muddy trails. The short rains around October and November are lighter but still make trekking harder. Lodges sometimes reduce rates during these months, but permit prices stay the same.
Temperatures are cool at this altitude. Days are often in the 60s°F and nights can drop into the 40s or 50s, especially in the dry season. Pack layers. Permits for June to September sell out early, so book well ahead.
Where to Stay
Lodges cluster around Kinigi, close to the park headquarters where treks begin. Several are among the most celebrated in Africa.
Bisate Lodge, run by Wilderness, sits in an eroded volcanic cone with villas that look toward Bisoke and Karisimbi. Singita Kwitonda Lodge borders the park with suites that have fireplaces and plunge pools. One&Only Gorilla's Nest is set among eucalyptus with a spa. Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge, a community partnership, sits right at the foot of the volcanoes.
Virunga Lodge, run by Volcanoes Safaris, is perched on a ridge with views over the Twin Lakes, a little further from the park.
Mid-range lodges and guesthouses can be found in Kinigi and Musanze town, about 30 minutes away. As a rough guide, mid-range lodges run about $250 to $700 a night for two, while the top lodges range from about $2,000 to well over $5,000 all-inclusive; treat these as approximate. Couples who want to splurge on one part of the trip usually choose this one.
Romantic Things to Do
The gorilla trek is the heart of the visit. Rangers brief you at Kinigi early in the morning, then assign you to a family based on fitness. Porters help carry bags and offer a hand on steep sections. You spend one hour with the gorillas before hiking back.
Golden monkeys, with their bright orange backs, live in the bamboo zone and make for a lively, easier trek.
The hike to Dian Fossey's grave and the ruins of her Karisoke research camp is moving, especially for couples who have read her story.
Climb Mount Bisoke for its crater lake if you are fit, or take a gentler day on the Twin Lakes, Burera and Ruhondo, with a boat ride and lunch. Back at the lodge, a massage and a long dinner by the fire round off the day.
Getting There and Around
Kigali International Airport is the gateway. From Kigali, the drive to Kinigi takes about two and a half to three hours on a paved, winding road through terraced hills. Most couples use a private driver-guide, who stays with them for the trip and drives to the trek starting points. Helicopter transfers from Kigali are available for a premium and take about 30 minutes.
Gorilla treks start at the Kinigi park headquarters around 7 a.m. Your driver takes you from there to the trailhead for your assigned family, which can be a short or longer drive on rough tracks.
Volcanoes National Park borders the DRC's Virunga National Park. Trekking is managed by the Rwanda Development Board, with armed rangers accompanying groups.
Food and Drink
Lodges serve hearty meals suited to cool evenings, often using vegetables, herbs and potatoes from local farms. Expect dishes like grilled tilapia, goat brochettes and fresh fruit such as tree tomatoes and passion fruit. Many lodges offer tasting menus at dinner and packed lunches for treks.
Rwandan coffee and tea are excellent. Some lodges arrange visits to local farms or cooperatives. In Musanze, simple local restaurants serve buffets of rice, beans, plantains and vegetables. Try the local banana beer if you get the chance. Toast your trek with a glass of wine by the fire.
Honeymoon Tips
Book gorilla permits early, especially for June to September. Many couples book 6 to 12 months ahead through a tour operator.
Consider two treks. Each family is different. A second encounter is often more relaxed once you know what to expect.
Pack waterproof jackets, gardening gloves for nettles, long sleeves and sturdy boots. Tuck trousers into socks to keep out ants.
Treks start at around 8,000 feet and Bisoke tops 12,000, so arrive a day early and take it slowly if you feel breathless. You must be at least 15 to trek. You will not be allowed to go if you show signs of illness, since gorillas can catch human diseases.
Hire a porter. They make the trek easier and the fee supports local families, many of whom once relied on the forest for a living.
