Why Honeymoon in the Wachau Valley
The pace is the point. Days here go something like this: a walk through vineyards to a ruined castle, a boat ride to the next village, a long lunch with a glass of Federspiel and an afternoon nap. Evenings are quiet. The Danube turns gold as the sun drops behind the hills.
The valley has enough to keep curious couples busy without ever feeling like sightseeing. Melk Abbey is one of the great Baroque buildings of Europe. Dürnstein's castle is where Richard the Lionheart was held prisoner in the 1190s. The Venus of Willendorf, the famous Stone Age figurine, was found near the riverbank here.
Above all it is wine country without pretension, with family estates where the winemaker often serves you in person.
When to Go
Late March or early April brings the apricot blossom, which turns the valley white and pink for about two weeks; exact timing depends on the weather. River boats usually start running in mid-April.
May, June and early July are lovely, with green terraces, warm days and the first wines of the new vintage. Apricot harvest comes in July, when roadside stands sell the fruit by the crate. August can be hot and busier with cyclists and river cruise passengers.
September and October are the highlight for wine lovers. Grapes are picked by hand on the steep terraces, the vineyards turn gold and wineries throw open their doors. From November to March much of the valley goes quiet: boats stop, many hotels close for winter and the seasonal Wachaubahn excursion train stops running.
Where to Stay
Dürnstein is the most romantic base, a tiny walled village under its castle ruins. Hotel Schloss Dürnstein occupies a former castle right above the river, with a terrace restaurant and outdoor pool; it closes in winter. Hotel Richard Löwenherz, in a former convent nearby, is another longtime favorite.
Weissenkirchen and Spitz are quieter wine villages with family-run guesthouses, many attached to working estates. Krems, at the eastern end, is a lively small town with more restaurants and art museums.
For spa time, the Loisium Wine & Spa Resort in Langenlois sits in the neighboring Kamptal wine region about 20 minutes from Krems. Across the river in Mautern, Landhaus Bacher is a celebrated restaurant with a few elegant rooms.
Romantic Things to Do
Start at Melk Abbey for its library, Marble Hall and terrace over the Danube, then take the boat downstream to Dürnstein. Climb the path up to the castle ruins for the best view in the valley, especially near sunset.
Rent bikes and ride the Danube Cycle Path, which follows the river on flat, paved paths. Going downstream from Melk to Krems is about 40 km and pleasantly easy. Small car ferries cross the river at several points if you want to switch banks.
Book tastings at a couple of estates. Domäne Wachau, a cooperative with a Baroque cellar palace in Dürnstein, is an easy start. Nikolaihof in Mautern is one of the oldest wineries in Austria. Göttweig Abbey, on its hill across from Krems, has a terrace restaurant with views over the whole valley.
Getting There and Around
The Wachau is close to Vienna. Trains from Vienna reach Krems or Melk in about an hour. The drive from Vienna airport to Dürnstein takes roughly an hour and a quarter.
Within the valley, you have several options. River boats run between Melk and Krems from about mid-April through October, stopping at Spitz, Dürnstein and other villages. The trip downstream is much faster than going upstream. Regional buses run along the north bank and are an easy way to hop between villages.
Bikes and e-bikes are easy to rent and can be taken on the boats. A car is useful for reaching hilltop wineries and Göttweig, but parking in Dürnstein's center is limited to residents and hotel guests.
Food and Drink
Wachau wines come in three dry styles set by the Vinea Wachau growers' association. Steinfeder is light and low in alcohol, Federspiel is the everyday middleweight and Smaragd, named after the emerald lizards that sun themselves on the terrace walls, is the richest and longest-lived. Try the same grape in all three to see the difference.
Apricots appear in everything: Marillenknödel (apricot dumplings rolled in buttered breadcrumbs), jam, nectar and potent schnapps. The Wachauer Laberl, a sourdough roll from Dürnstein, comes with almost every wine tavern plate.
The Loibnerhof near Dürnstein serves regional dishes in an orchard garden in summer. For a casual evening, look for a Heuriger: wine estates open for a few weeks at a time and serve their own wine with cold plates.
Honeymoon Tips
- Check boat timetables before you plan your day. Schedules are seasonal and the upstream trip takes about twice as long as the downstream one.
- Book dinner ahead in Dürnstein and Spitz in summer and during harvest, when tables fill early.
- Buy wine directly from estates. Prices are often lower than in Vienna shops and many will help you arrange shipping.
- Wear good walking shoes for the castle ruins and vineyard paths, which are steep and rocky in places.
- Visit outside winter if you can. Many hotels, boats and restaurants close from November to March so the valley can feel shuttered.
