Vienna, the Wachau Valley, Hallstatt and Salzburg in 11 Days

Imperial city, wine valley, lake village and Baroque old town, east to west

11 days4 stops
Original illustration
At a glance

Eleven days across Austria from east to west: three nights of palaces, opera and wine taverns in Vienna, two slow nights among the Danube vineyards of the Wachau, two in Hallstatt so you have the lake at dawn and three in Salzburg with the Salzkammergut lakes on the doorstep. Fly into Vienna and out of Salzburg or Munich. Best from May to October.

This 11 day Austria honeymoon runs east to west in four stops: Vienna, the Wachau Valley, Hallstatt and Salzburg. It starts with imperial palaces and evening concerts, slows down among Danube vineyards, gives you a lake village at dawn and ends in Mozart's Baroque hometown. No transfer is longer than about two and a half hours.

Fly into Vienna International Airport (VIE), which has nonstop service from several US cities. Spend three nights in the capital without a car. Then pick up a rental car for the countryside, where it makes the Wachau wineries and the Salzkammergut lakes far easier. Drop it in Salzburg. Fly home from Salzburg (SZG) via a European hub or take the train to Munich (MUC) in about two hours for more US nonstops.

The altitude stays gentle the whole way and the pace suits couples who would rather taste, listen and walk than climb. The splurge night belongs to Vienna or a castle hotel above Salzburg.

The route

  1. ViennaAustria · 3 nights
  2. Wachau ValleyAustria · 2 nights
  3. HallstattAustria · 2 nights
  4. SalzburgAustria · 3 nights
Best months
May to June and September to early October
Trip length
11 days
Budget
About $300–750 a night for two in mid-range to luxury hotels (approximate)

Day by day

Days 1–3: Vienna

The City Airport Train reaches Wien Mitte in about 16 minutes. Stay inside the Ring if you can, near the opera and the cafés. Spend the jet-lag afternoon in a coffeehouse such as Café Sperl, with a melange and a slice of cake, then take tram 1 or 2 around the Ring at dusk.

On day 2, go to Schönbrunn Palace early and walk up through the free gardens to the Gloriette for the view back over the city. In the afternoon, see Klimt's The Kiss at the Upper Belvedere. Dress up for the evening: an opera at the Staatsoper or a concert at the Musikverein, booked online as soon as your dates are set.

Day 3 is for Vienna's other side. Take the tram to Nussdorf or Grinzing for an evening at a Heuriger, a family wine tavern serving its own wine with a cold buffet. Before that, book a private cabin on the Riesenrad, the 1897 Ferris wheel in the Prater, for the romantic moment of the city stop.

Days 4–5: The Wachau Valley

Pick up your rental car and drive about an hour and a quarter west to Dürnstein, or take the train to Krems or Melk in about an hour if you would rather rent the car later. The Wachau is a 36 km stretch of the Danube lined with stone vineyard terraces, castle ruins and two great Baroque abbeys.

Start day 5 at Melk Abbey for its library, Marble Hall and terrace over the river, then ride the boat downstream to Dürnstein. Boats usually run from about mid-April through October. In the afternoon, book a tasting at a family estate in Weissenkirchen or Spitz and try the same Grüner Veltliner in all three local styles: Steinfeder, Federspiel and Smaragd.

This is the slow stretch of the trip, so leave space for a nap and an apricot dumpling. Riders can take e-bikes along the flat Danube Cycle Path. Near sunset, climb the short, steep path to the castle ruins above Dürnstein, where Richard the Lionheart was held prisoner. Watch the river turn gold.

Days 6–7: Hallstatt and the Salzkammergut

Drive about two to two and a half hours southwest to Hallstatt, in the Salzkammergut lake district. The village center is closed to traffic, so ask your hotel how overnight parking works before you arrive. Thousands of day visitors can arrive on a busy summer day, which is why this itinerary has you sleep here. After 5 p.m. and before 8 a.m., the lanes are almost empty.

On the morning of day 7, walk the village at first light, when mist sits on the lake and swans drift past the boathouses. That is the romantic moment here. Then ride the funicular up to the Salzwelten salt mine, said to be the oldest in the world, with its wooden miners' slides and the Skywalk platform over the village.

In the afternoon, split the day by taste. Rent an electric boat to see Hallstatt from the water, or ride the Dachstein Krippenstein cable car from Obertraun to the ice caves and the 5fingers viewing platform. Early risers can drive half an hour to Gosausee for glacier reflections.

Days 8–11: Salzburg

Drive about an hour and a quarter to Salzburg, stopping in Bad Ischl for the Kaiservilla and cake at Konditorei Zauner, or at St. Wolfgang for lunch on the lake. Return the car in Salzburg, since the old town is largely car-free.

On day 9, take the FestungsBahn funicular to Hohensalzburg Fortress early, then walk the Mönchsberg ridge path for one of the best views of the domes. Wander down through St. Peter's cemetery. In the evening, book the Mozart dinner concert in the Baroque hall at St. Peter, or a chamber concert in the Marble Hall of Mirabell Palace.

Day 10 is a day out. Cross into Germany for a quiet electric boat on the Königssee, ride the cable car up the Untersberg or spend the afternoon swimming in the Wolfgangsee, about 45 minutes away. Share a Salzburger Nockerl, the soufflé made for two, on your last night. On day 11, Salzburg Airport is about 20 minutes away. Direct trains reach Munich Airport in roughly two hours.

Getting Between Stops

Vienna Airport to the city is 16 minutes on the City Airport Train. Vienna to the Wachau is about an hour by train to Krems or Melk, or an hour and a quarter by car to Dürnstein. The Wachau to Hallstatt is roughly two to two and a half hours by car. Hallstatt to Salzburg takes about an hour and a quarter by road.

You can do the whole route by public transport. Trains from Melk or Krems connect to the Salzkammergut line at Attnang-Puchheim, with a ferry from Hallstatt station across the lake to the village. Expect more changes and fewer evening options.

A car for days 4 to 8 is the easier choice. It reaches hilltop wineries, Göttweig Abbey, Gosausee and the Wolfgangsee on your schedule. Parking in Dürnstein and Hallstatt is restricted, with spaces set aside for hotel guests, so ask each hotel how it works. A cross-border drop-off in Munich usually adds a fee.

Where to Stay

In Vienna, Hotel Sacher Wien sits across from the State Opera and delivers the full imperial treatment. Hotel Imperial on the Ring is the other grand classic. Park Hyatt Vienna and Rosewood Vienna feel more contemporary. Spittelberg in the 7th District suits couples who want wine bars and boutique hotels.

In the Wachau, Hotel Schloss Dürnstein occupies a former castle above the river with a terrace restaurant and pool. It closes in winter. Hotel Richard Löwenherz, in a former convent nearby, is another longtime favorite.

In Hallstatt, Heritage Hotel Hallstatt spreads its rooms across several old buildings, many with lake views. Book early, since village hotels are small. On the Wolfgangsee, the Romantik Hotel Im Weissen Rössl in St. Wolfgang has a heated lake pool.

In Salzburg, Hotel Schloss Mönchstein sits in its own park on top of the Mönchsberg, an elevator ride above the old town. Hotel Goldener Hirsch near the Festival halls is a long-standing favorite.

When to Go

May, June, September and early October are the best months for this route. Vienna's opera season is running, the Wachau terraces are green or golden, the Salzkammergut lakes are calm and crowds are lighter than in midsummer.

Late March or early April brings apricot blossom to the Wachau for about two weeks, though boats usually start only in mid-April. September and October are harvest time, when wineries throw open their doors and Vienna pours Sturm, the cloudy young wine sold only in early autumn.

July and August are warm enough for lake swimming but Vienna can be hot and humid, the State Opera breaks for summer and Hallstatt fills with day trippers. The Salzburg Festival runs from late July through August, which is wonderful if you book months ahead and expensive if you do not.

From November to March, the Wachau largely closes. December works only as a Christmas market trip to Vienna and Salzburg.

Budget and Booking

Austria costs less than Switzerland for similar comfort. Plan on roughly $300–750 a night for two in good mid-range to luxury hotels, with the grand Vienna hotels and Salzburg's castle hotels at the top. Hallstatt rooms are small and book out early, so expect limited choice if you book late. All figures are approximate and rise during the Salzburg Festival and in December.

Book in this order: Hallstatt rooms, then opera or Musikverein seats, then the rest. Popular performances sell out weeks ahead. Standing-room opera tickets are released shortly before each performance if you missed out.

In summer, book the Hallstatt salt mine and Dachstein cable car online to skip ticket queues. Ask if your Salzburg hotel includes a Salzburg Card, which covers transport, the fortress funicular and most sights. Buy wine directly from Wachau estates, where prices are often lower than in Vienna shops.

Practical Tips for Couples

Dress smartly for the opera and better restaurants in Vienna and Salzburg. A jacket, a dress or smart trousers fit in everywhere. Pack good walking shoes for the castle path at Dürnstein and the steep lanes of Hallstatt.

Carry cash for Heurigen, small cafés, boat rentals and parking machines. Waiters will not bring the check unless you ask. Rounding up about 10 percent is normal.

Most shops close on Sundays, so buy picnic supplies on Saturday. Salzburg gets more rain than many visitors expect. Summer storms roll in fast from the Alps, so pack a light rain jacket.

In Hallstatt, respect residents: no drones, no climbing onto private docks and no photos over garden fences. Mention the honeymoon when you book hotels and dinners. A glass of Austrian Sekt often appears without fuss.

Make It Shorter or Longer

With eight days, skip the Wachau as an overnight stop and visit it as a long day trip from Vienna by train. Keep two nights in Hallstatt and three in Salzburg.

With 13 days, add a third night in the Wachau and a third in the Salzkammergut, moving your second lake night to the Wolfgangsee for swimming and the Schafberg cog railway. Or add two nights in Kitzbühel or Zell am See after Salzburg for Alpine hiking and lake swimming in the mountains.

With two weeks or more, start in Prague or Budapest and arrive in Vienna by train. Budapest is about two and a half hours away by Railjet. Or end with three nights in Innsbruck, a city surrounded by peaks that is roughly two hours by train from Salzburg.

Avoid trimming Hallstatt to a day trip. The village only becomes the place in the photographs once the buses leave. That requires a bed nearby.

FAQ

Planning this trip

Is 11 days enough for an Austria honeymoon?

Yes. Eleven days covers Vienna, the Wachau, Hallstatt and Salzburg with three nights in each city and two in each countryside stop. Transfers are short, so you lose little time on the road. With fewer than eight days, drop the Wachau overnight and keep the rest.

Do we need a car in Austria?

Not in Vienna or Salzburg, where trams, buses and your feet are better. A rental car for the middle of the trip makes the Wachau wineries and the Salzkammergut lakes much easier. Public transport works too, with more changes and fewer evening buses, so plan around timetables if you skip the car.

Is Hallstatt too crowded for a honeymoon?

By day in summer, it can be. Thousands of day visitors can arrive while fewer than a thousand people live there. Staying overnight solves most of it, since early mornings and evenings are quiet. Plan the salt mine and a boat rental outside the midday rush, or base yourselves in Obertraun or on the Wolfgangsee.

Should we fly home from Salzburg or Munich?

Salzburg Airport is small and mostly served by European flights, so you will usually connect through a hub. Munich has more US nonstops and direct trains from Salzburg in roughly two hours. Compare fares for both. An open-jaw ticket into Vienna and out of Munich can cost about the same as a round trip.

Can we combine this itinerary with Switzerland?

Yes, with time. From Salzburg, trains run west through Innsbruck toward Zurich. The full trip takes most of a day. A combined 16 day honeymoon might add three nights in Lucerne and three in the Jungfrau Region. Trim one Austria stop if you have less than two weeks.

Stops on this route

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