Why Honeymoon in Ho Chi Minh City
Saigon wins on food and atmosphere rather than famous monuments. Its street food rivals Hanoi's, with broken rice plates, banh mi, clam stalls and bowls of hu tieu noodle soup sold from carts that have stayed in the same family for decades. The bar scene is arguably better than the capital's, with rooftops, hidden cocktail bars and craft beer taprooms all within a short ride of each other.
It is also an easy city to be looked after in. Big international hotels and boutique places cost less than in most Asian capitals. Massages and spa treatments are cheap enough that many couples book one every day.
Finally there is the logistics. After a long flight from the US, Saigon is a sensible place to sleep off jet lag before a short domestic hop to Phu Quoc, Con Dao or Da Nang for Hoi An.
When to Go
Ho Chi Minh City has two seasons rather than four. The dry season runs from roughly December to April, with December through February the most comfortable: sunny days in the high 80s Fahrenheit and slightly lower humidity in the evenings. March and April are the hottest months, often reaching the mid 90s, so plan outdoor sightseeing for early morning and late afternoon.
The rainy season runs from about May to November. Rain usually arrives as a heavy afternoon downpour that lasts an hour or two and then clears, so the city stays very visitable. Streets in some low areas flood briefly during the worst storms. Keep a light rain jacket handy and plan a covered alternative for afternoons.
Tet, the Lunar New Year in late January or February, is festive but many family-run restaurants and shops close for several days.
Where to Stay
Most couples stay in the old District 1 core around Dong Khoi Street and Nguyen Hue walking street. The city reorganized its districts into wards, but locals and taxi drivers still use the old district names. Staying here puts the Opera House, the riverfront and dozens of restaurants within walking distance.
The big romantic choices cluster near the Opera House. Park Hyatt Saigon has a deep, calm pool and polished colonial styling. The Caravelle and the Hotel Continental Saigon carry decades of history. The Caravelle's rooftop bar is a classic first-night drink. The Reverie Saigon, on the riverfront, goes for maximal Italian glamour. Hotel des Arts Saigon, an MGallery hotel, is a more intimate option with a rooftop bar of its own.
Thao Dien, across the river, is greener and quieter, with villa hotels, cafes and a more residential feel.
Romantic Things to Do
Book a street food tour by scooter after dark, riding pillion behind local drivers through neighborhoods you would never find alone. It sounds nerve-racking and turns out to be one of the most fun nights of most trips.
Walk Dong Khoi and Nguyen Hue at dusk, stop at the Central Post Office and climb the stairs of the old apartment block at 42 Nguyen Hue, now packed with tiny cafes and boutiques. Take a sunset drink at a rooftop bar, then a river cruise if you want the skyline from the water.
By day, the War Remnants Museum and the Reunification Palace give context for the American War. They are sobering and worth it. A spa afternoon balances them out. For a full day out, head to the Mekong Delta for sampan rides through coconut canals or to the Cu Chi Tunnels.
Getting There and Around
Vietnam Airlines flies nonstop from San Francisco to SGN in roughly 16 hours. Other routes connect through Tokyo, Seoul, Taipei, Hong Kong or Singapore. Entry and visa rules depend on your citizenship and can change at short notice, so check the official government website before you book.
From the airport, Grab cars and metered taxis from the official rank reach the center in 30 to 45 minutes, longer at rush hour. Use the Grab app around town too: it is cheap, shows the fare up front and avoids haggling. Grab bikes are faster in traffic if you are comfortable on the back of a scooter.
The city's first metro line runs from near Ben Thanh Market out to the eastern suburbs, handy for Thao Dien. Crossing the street takes nerve. Walk at a steady pace without sudden stops so riders can flow around you.
Food and Drink
Eat as the city does, on low plastic stools. Com tam, broken rice with grilled pork chop and a fried egg, is the classic breakfast and lunch. Banh mi here is fat and generous. In the evening, look for oc stalls serving snails and clams with chili and tamarind. Also look for banh xeo, crisp turmeric pancakes you wrap in mustard greens and herbs.
For a special dinner, Saigon has a strong set of modern Vietnamese restaurants working with regional ingredients, along with excellent French bistros. Book a tasting menu one night and spend the others on street food.
Coffee is serious business. Try ca phe sua da, strong drip coffee over ice with condensed milk, or a coconut coffee. Cocktail bars use local rice spirits, pepper and fruit. Vietnamese craft beer has grown into a real scene.
Honeymoon Tips
Pace yourselves in the heat. Build in a pool break every afternoon and save walking for mornings and evenings.
Keep phones and bags on the side away from the road. Snatch thefts by passing motorbikes are the most common problem for visitors here, so hold your phone close when checking a map on the sidewalk.
Dress codes are relaxed in the city, but both of you should cover shoulders and knees for pagodas and churches. Bring a light layer for fierce air conditioning in malls and restaurants.
Dengue is present year-round and peaks in the rainy season, so use repellent in the evening. If you're pregnant or hoping to be soon, check CDC travel health notices before you go.
Two nights is the minimum. Add a third for the Mekong Delta.
