Why Honeymoon in Seoul
Seoul suits couples who like to explore on foot and eat well. Its old core holds five Joseon dynasty palaces, each framed by mountains, plus hanok neighborhoods of tiled roofs and narrow alleys. A few subway stops away, Gangnam and Seongsu are all glass towers, boutiques and cafes.
The city is built for dates. Han River parks fill with couples on blankets at sunset. Namsan's tower and its fences of padlocks are a local tradition for pairs. Photo booths and studios invite you to dress up together for an hour.
Food is a constant pleasure. Korean barbecue, late-night street stalls, tasting menus at ambitious modern restaurants and humble markets give you something new at every meal.
Everything runs late and runs on time. The city feels safe after dark. That freedom to wander makes it relaxing in a way many big capitals are not.
When to Go
April and May are lovely. Cherry blossoms usually peak in early April along the Han, Yeouido and Seokchon Lake, followed by fresh greenery and warm days in May.
Late September to mid November is the other high point. Skies are clear, temperatures are comfortable and fall leaves turn the palace gardens and Namsan red and gold, usually peaking in late October or early November.
Summer is hot and humid. The rainy season typically arrives in late June and lasts into late July, with heavy downpours. August stays steamy, though the evenings by the river are lively.
Winter, from December to February, is often well below freezing with cutting winds, but skies are clear and the city's Christmas lights and warm cafes have real charm. Palaces are quieter then. Avoid Lunar New Year and Chuseok if you want shops and restaurants fully open.
Where to Stay
Jongno and Gwanghwamun, the historic center, put you close to the palaces and hanok lanes. Four Seasons Hotel Seoul is near Gwanghwamun Square. A small number of hanok guesthouses in Bukchon and Seochon offer traditional rooms with heated floors.
Jung-gu, around Myeongdong and Namsan, is central and well connected. The Shilla Seoul sits on the slopes of Namsan with gardens and a large spa.
Gangnam and Jamsil, south of the river, feel more modern. Signiel Seoul occupies the upper floors of Lotte World Tower with very high views. Park Hyatt Seoul faces the busy Teheran-ro.
Seongsu and Hannam-dong are where younger Seoulites go for cafes, galleries and design shops, with an increasing number of boutique hotels.
For most couples, splitting nights between the old center and one modern neighborhood gives the best feel for the city.
Romantic Things to Do
Rent hanbok near Gyeongbokgung Palace. Wearing it usually gets you into the royal palaces free. The courtyards make an easy backdrop for photos. Watch the guard-changing ceremony at the main gate.
Book the guided tour of the Secret Garden at Changdeokgung, a wooded royal garden of ponds and pavilions with limited daily entry.
Walk the alleys of Bukchon Hanok Village, Ikseon-dong and Seochon. Bukchon is a lived-in neighborhood with visiting hours for tourists in parts of the area, so go quietly and check current times.
Ride the cable car or hike up Namsan to N Seoul Tower at dusk for the city lights.
Picnic in a Han River park. At Banpo, the Moonlight Rainbow Fountain runs on the bridge on spring through fall evenings.
Hike Bukhansan or Inwangsan for views of the palaces from above. Afterward, soak in a jjimjilbang.
Getting There and Around
Incheon International Airport has nonstop flights from many US cities, including Los Angeles, San Francisco, Seattle, New York, Atlanta, Chicago, Dallas and Washington Dulles. The AREX express train reaches Seoul Station in under an hour. Limousine buses run to major hotel areas. Gimpo Airport, closer to the city, handles most domestic flights to Jeju and Busan.
Inside Seoul, the subway is the best way around. Buy a T-money card at a convenience store and top it up as you go; it also works on buses and in many taxis.
Kakao T is the standard app for calling taxis. Fares are reasonable, though drivers rarely speak much English, so keep addresses in Korean on your phone.
Use Naver Map or KakaoMap for directions. Google Maps does not provide walking directions in Korea.
Food and Drink
Korean barbecue is a must. Grill samgyeopsal pork belly or marinated beef at your table, wrap it in lettuce with garlic and ssamjang and wash it down with soju or beer.
Gwangjang Market is the best place to graze. Try bindaetteok, a crisp mung bean pancake, mayak gimbap and the knife-cut noodles at the busy stalls.
For something quieter, a temple food meal offers vegetarian Buddhist cooking at a slow pace. Seoul also has a strong modern Korean fine dining scene with tasting menus worth booking for an anniversary-style dinner.
Cafe culture is huge. Seongsu, Ikseon-dong and Yeonnam-dong have hundreds of coffee shops, many in converted hanok or warehouses.
In the evening, a pojangmacha tent bar is where locals eat spicy rice cakes and fishcake soup with a bottle of soju. Fried chicken and beer, called chimaek, makes a cheap, cheerful river picnic.
Honeymoon Tips
Book the Secret Garden tour in advance, especially in spring and fall. Tickets are limited and can sell out.
Start palace days early. By late morning, tour groups and hanbok-wearing crowds fill Gyeongbokgung.
Respect residents in Bukchon. Keep your voice down, stick to the visiting hours and do not peer into doorways.
Check closing days. Many palaces and museums close one weekday, typically Monday or Tuesday.
Carry a portable charger and a translation app. Payment by credit card is nearly universal, but foreign cards occasionally fail in small shops, so keep some won as backup.
Plan a slow last day. Incheon is a long ride from Gangnam, so leave plenty of time before your flight home.
