Why Honeymoon in Flåm
Flåm puts the classic fjord experiences within walking distance of your hotel. The train, the sightseeing boats, the kayak outfitters and the brewpub are all a few minutes apart, so you can leave a car parked for days.
It also rewards slow travel, which suits a honeymoon. Arriving on the Flåm Railway, with the Bergen Railway before it, means watching snowy plateaus give way to green valleys through a train window instead of a windshield. Leaving on an electric boat through the Nærøyfjord is quieter still.
The nearby villages add variety. Aurland has a few more local shops and an old stone church. Undredal, reachable by road or boat, has a tiny stave church and a goat cheese tradition. Gudvangen, at the head of the Nærøyfjord, sits beneath walls of rock so steep that the sun vanishes early in the afternoon for much of the year. Each is a short ride away. None feels anything like a cruise port.
When to Go
May to September is the main season, when boats and trains run full schedules and the high roads open. June brings the strongest waterfalls and the longest days. July and August are busiest, with frequent cruise calls. September is calmer and often lovely, with autumn color creeping down the slopes and fewer passengers on the train.
The Flåm Railway runs year-round, as do some fjord boats, so a winter visit is possible. From November to March the valley is quiet, snow lines the tracks and daylight is short. Hotels that stay open lower their rates. It is a peaceful choice for a short stay if you want snow and stillness more than hiking.
April and October are in-between months. Some services thin out and the high Snow Road over the mountains to Lærdal stays closed until early summer. Rain can fall any time, though Flåm is far drier than Bergen because it sits so far inland.
Where to Stay
Flåm has only a handful of hotels, so book early for summer.
- Fretheim Hotel: the grand old hotel of the village, with a historic wing from the 1800s and a newer section facing the fjord.
- Flåmsbrygga Hotel: on the harbor beside the Ægir brewpub, with rooms and balconies over the water.
- Cabins and apartments: several properties along the river and fjord offer self-catering stays, useful if you want a kitchen and a little privacy.
For something quieter, look just outside the village. Aurland, ten minutes away, has small hotels and cabins along the fjord. Undredal and Gudvangen have a few guesthouses and cabins with the water at the door.
Some couples who want a larger hotel with a spa base themselves in Voss or elsewhere on the Sognefjord and visit Flåm for the day. That works, though you miss the empty evenings that make the village special.
Romantic Things to Do
Ride the Flåm Railway up to Myrdal and back. Better still, ride up and cycle or walk down the old navvy road through the valley. The train pauses at Kjosfossen, a roaring waterfall where in summer a performer dressed as a huldra, a forest spirit from folklore, appears among the rocks.
Kayak the Nærøyfjord with a guide from Gudvangen. The water is usually calm, the walls rise straight up and the narrowest stretch is only about 250 meters across. If paddling sounds like work, the electric sightseeing boats between Flåm and Gudvangen glide along with barely a hum.
Drive or join a tour up to Stegastein, a wooden platform jutting out roughly 650 meters above the Aurlandsfjord, at sunset when the buses have gone. Hike to Brekkefossen, a short steep climb behind the village with a view over Flåm beside the falls. In Undredal, visit the little stave church and buy cheese from the local dairy.
Getting There and Around
Most couples arrive by train. Take the Bergen Railway from Oslo or Bergen to Myrdal, then switch to the Flåm Railway for the last hour down to the fjord. From Bergen the trip takes about three hours. From Oslo, plan on six to seven. The Norway in a Nutshell package bundles trains, a fjord boat and a bus into a loop from either city.
By car, Flåm is about three hours from Bergen Airport (BGO) via Voss and Gudvangen. From Oslo the drive takes roughly five to six hours and passes through the Lærdal Tunnel, the longest road tunnel in the world at about 15 miles. Express boats also connect Flåm with Bergen in summer.
In the village everything is walkable. Bikes can be rented for the valley road. A car helps for Stegastein, Undredal and Borgund Stave Church, about an hour away, but it is not essential.
Food and Drink
Ægir is the place everyone mentions. For once the hype is fair. The brewery's pub is built to look like a Viking hall, with a central fire pit and dark timber. It serves a multi-course menu matched with house beers. Fretheim Hotel's restaurant cooks with local trout, lamb and vegetables. Cafes near the station handle fish soup, sandwiches and waffles.
Look for local flavors. Undredal is known for brown and white goat cheese made in the village for generations. Aurland lamb and cured meats show up on menus around the fjord. In late summer, wild raspberries and blueberries ripen along the trails, so carry a small container on hikes.
Dinner hours run early by American standards. Kitchens in small villages close sooner than city ones, so book a table for 7pm rather than 9pm. Outside summer, check which places are open, since several close or shorten hours in winter.
Honeymoon Tips
- Ride the Flåm Railway on an early morning or late afternoon departure. Midday trains are packed on cruise days.
- Book railway seats online ahead for summer, when walk-up tickets can sell out.
- Stay two nights at least. A day trip from Bergen shows you the highlights but not the quiet evening.
- Visit Stegastein near sunrise or sunset, when you may have the platform nearly to yourselves.
- Pack insect repellent for summer evenings by the water.
- If you drive the Snow Road to Lærdal, confirm it is open and leave plenty of daylight. It is narrow and high, with walls of snow beside the road in early summer.
- Pair Flåm with Hardanger or Bergen for a classic western fjord loop of a week or so.
