Why Honeymoon on Isla Mujeres
The main reason is the water at Playa Norte. Because the beach faces northwest it is usually sheltered from the open-sea swell, so the sea is flat enough to float in with a drink in hand. It also catches the sunset, which most Caribbean beaches in Mexico do not.
The second reason is scale. You can cross the whole island in under half an hour, which means no long transfers and no feeling of being stuck inside a resort. Dinner in town, a swim at a beach club and a morning drive to the cliffs all fit in one easy day.
Third, it is close to everything. Cancún's airport and restaurants are a ferry ride away, the reef and the MUSA sculptures are minutes offshore and the summer whale shark grounds lie north of the island. It is a relaxed base with plenty to do when you want it.
When to Go
December through April is the best stretch: dry days, lower humidity and air temperatures in the low to mid 80s Fahrenheit. It is also the busiest and most expensive period, especially around Christmas and Easter week, so book early.
May is hot but usually still dry. From June the rainy season brings afternoon showers and heavy humidity, though many days stay sunny in the morning. Mid-May through September is whale shark season, with the best odds in July and August, so summer has a real draw for couples who love wildlife.
September and October carry the highest hurricane risk and the most rain. Travel insurance that covers storms is worth it in these months. Sargassum seaweed affects the Mexican Caribbean in some years, mostly in warmer months. Playa Norte is often less affected than east-facing beaches, but conditions change from week to week.
Where to Stay
The north end puts you within a few steps of Playa Norte and a short walk to the restaurants on Hidalgo Avenue. Small hotels such as Ixchel Beach Hotel sit right on the sand here. This is the most convenient area for couples who want to skip the cart rental.
Impression Isla Mujeres by Secrets, a kid-free all-inclusive, also sits at the north tip.
The southwest shore, along the road toward Punta Sur, is quieter and more resort-like. Zoëtry Villa Rolandi, a small kid-free luxury hotel on the lagoon side, has its own little beach. Several boutique hotels and rental villas also sit on the east-facing cliffs, where the views are big but the sea is too rough to swim.
Approximate ranges: well-located boutique rooms often run about US$150 to US$400 a night, while the top kid-free resorts can reach US$700 or more for two.
Romantic Things to Do
Spend your first sunset at Playa Norte or the quieter Playa Sol on the northwest tip. Bring cash for a pair of loungers and stay until the sky goes orange.
Rent a golf cart for a day and loop the island. Stop at Hacienda Mundaca, the overgrown 19th-century estate of a slave trader turned pirate, then continue to Punta Sur. The cliff path there passes sculptures and the ruins of a small temple to Ixchel, the Maya goddess linked with the moon and weaving. Entry is free after 5 p.m., when the light turns gold.
Get in the water. Snorkel or dive at MUSA, the underwater museum of sculptures off the island, or book a full-day trip to Isla Contoy, a protected bird island with a daily cap on visitors. In summer, a whale shark tour leaves very early and returns by early afternoon.
Getting There and Around
Fly into Cancún International Airport (CUN), which has nonstop flights from dozens of US cities. A taxi or prebooked transfer takes about 25 to 30 minutes to Puerto Juárez, where passenger ferries cross roughly every half hour during the day. The crossing takes about 20 minutes. Ferries also leave from the Cancún Hotel Zone, with fewer departures and higher fares. Some upscale hotels arrange their own boat pickups.
On the island, walking covers the north end. For anything farther, rent a golf cart for a day or two, take taxis or hire a moped if you are both confident riders. Carts usually cost about US$50 for 24 hours, though prices vary. Watch for speed bumps and drive slowly after dark, since the roads are narrow and shared with scooters. Bring your passport even for the short trip from Cancún.
Food and Drink
Seafood rules. Order tikin xic, fish rubbed with achiote and bitter orange then grilled in banana leaves, at one of the casual places near the fishing docks. Ceviche, aguachile and fish tacos are easy to find for a few dollars at lunch.
Hidalgo Avenue in town is the main restaurant street, with tables spilling into the pedestrian lane at night. Prices are lower than in Cancún's Hotel Zone and you can try a different place each evening. For a dressier dinner, the restaurants along the lagoon side and at the boutique hotels serve grilled lobster in season and good cocktails with a view.
Tap water is not safe to drink, so stick to bottled or filtered water. Most restaurants use purified ice. Carry some pesos, since smaller taco stands and beach vendors may not take cards.
Honeymoon Tips
- Stay at least three nights. The island only reveals its pace after the last ferry of day-trippers leaves.
- Mosquitoes come out at dusk, particularly in the rainy months. Pack repellent. If you're pregnant or hoping to be soon, check CDC travel health notices for Zika and dengue before you go.
- Playa Norte is calm, but the east coast is not. Do not swim on the windward side, where currents are strong.
- The State Department advisory for Quintana Roo is "exercise increased caution." Use registered taxis at night and keep valuables in your room safe.
- Reef-safe sunscreen is expected on snorkel trips and at protected sites.
- Dress is casual. Shorts and sandals work almost everywhere, though a light dress or collared shirt fits the nicer dinner spots.
