Why Honeymoon in Puerto Escondido
The setting is the draw. Zicatela, nicknamed the Mexican Pipeline, gets some of the heaviest beach-break waves in the world. You do not have to surf to enjoy it: sitting at a beach bar while the swells roll in is a show of its own.
The coves are where you actually swim. Carrizalillo is a small horseshoe of sand reached by a long stairway, with calm water and snorkeling at the edges. Puerto Angelito and Manzanillo share another sheltered bay.
It pairs well with Oaxaca city, which now sits about two and a half hours away by a new highway, so you can combine a food-focused city stay with a beach week. Prices are also friendlier than on the Caribbean side.
When to Go
November through April is the dry season and the best time. Days are sunny and hot, with highs in the upper 80s Fahrenheit and very little rain. Sea conditions are usually calmer in the coves. Boat trips run reliably.
May is hot and humid but often still dry. The rainy season runs roughly June through September, with afternoon or evening storms and lush green hills. Swells are often biggest in summer, which thrills surfers but makes swimming riskier. October is a transition month.
The Manialtepec lagoon's bioluminescence tends to be strongest in the later part of the year, though it depends on water conditions and darkness, so go on a night near the new moon. Mexican holidays such as Easter week fill the town with domestic visitors.
Where to Stay
Choose your neighborhood first. Rinconada and the clifftops above Carrizalillo are calm, close to the swimming coves and good for couples who want quiet evenings. Bacocho, on the west side, has bigger homes, beach clubs and sunset views.
Zicatela and La Punta, at the south end of the surf beach, are livelier, with cafes, yoga studios and bars. La Punta in particular has a laid-back, young crowd.
Some of the most memorable stays sit east of town. Hotel Escondido, a group of thatched bungalows with private plunge pools on a quiet beach, is a design favorite for honeymoons. Casona Sforza is a striking adobe-domed boutique hotel above the sea. Approximate rates: US$100 to US$250 a night for good boutique rooms, with top design hotels costing more.
Romantic Things to Do
Walk down the steps to Carrizalillo in the morning before the crowds, swim and rent a pair of loungers. Come back to the clifftop at sunset.
Book a night tour of the Manialtepec lagoon, about 10 kilometers west of town. Boats glide through the mangroves and every paddle stroke or hand trailed in the water lights up. Many tours also visit at dawn for birdwatching.
Join an evening turtle release at Bacocho beach, where conservation groups let hatchlings go in season. Take a boat trip at sunrise to look for dolphins and sea turtles.
Drive about an hour east to Mazunte and the headland of Punta Cometa for a sunset hike. Stop at the town's turtle center on the way.
Getting There and Around
Puerto Escondido International Airport (PXM) has nonstop flights from Houston on United and from Dallas/Fort Worth on American, alongside many domestic routes to Mexico City and Guadalajara. Small airlines also fly the short hop from Oaxaca city. Schedules can change, so check routes before booking.
A new highway from Oaxaca city opened in 2024, cutting the drive to roughly two and a half hours from about seven. If you are pairing the two, a rental car or private driver gives you flexibility, but drive only by day.
In town, taxis are cheap and plentiful. Agree on the fare first. Walking between beaches is possible in places, but the main road is busy, so taxis are easier after dark.
Food and Drink
Oaxacan cooking follows you to the coast. Order tlayudas, the big crisp tortillas topped with beans, quesillo and meat, at a night stand. Try a seafood cocktail or a whole grilled fish at a beach palapa at lunch.
The town has become a quiet food destination, with small open-air restaurants serving modern Mexican tasting menus and wood-fired seafood. Reservations are wise in high season.
Mezcal is the drink. Bars in La Punta and Zicatela pour small-batch mezcal from Oaxaca's villages. Sip it slowly with orange and worm salt. Morning coffee here often comes from the Oaxacan mountains. Cafes take it seriously. Drink bottled or filtered water.
Honeymoon Tips
- Do not swim at Zicatela or the exposed end of Bacocho. Currents there are dangerous even for strong swimmers. Stick to Carrizalillo, Puerto Angelito and Manzanillo.
- Carrizalillo's stairway is steep. Bring water and take it slowly in the heat.
- The State Department rates Oaxaca at "exercise increased caution." It places no extra limits on government staff visiting Puerto Escondido but advises against driving Highway 200 west toward Guerrero.
- Pack repellent for dusk. If you're pregnant or hoping to be soon, check CDC travel health notices for Zika and dengue.
- Many smaller places are cash only. Withdraw pesos from ATMs inside banks or supermarkets.
