Why Honeymoon in Oaxaca
Few places in Mexico pack so much into such a walkable city. The center has the baroque church of Santo Domingo, a superb botanical garden, markets full of chocolate and chiles and a string of galleries and craft shops. Monte Albán, the hilltop capital of the Zapotecs, is about 20 minutes away by car. Within an hour you can be watching a family dye wool with cochineal in Teotitlán del Valle or tasting mezcal straight from the still in Santiago Matatlán.
The food alone justifies the trip. Oaxaca is famous for its seven classic moles, from inky mole negro to the bright yellow amarillo. Its restaurant scene runs from market stalls to some of the most talked-about kitchens in the country.
It is also a city that knows exactly who it is. Festivals, processions and village markets are part of daily life rather than shows put on for visitors.
When to Go
The dry season, from about November through April, is the most comfortable time. Days are sunny and warm, often in the low 80s Fahrenheit, while nights in December and January can feel cold. March through May is the hottest stretch, with highs that can reach the mid 90s.
The rainy season runs from roughly May or June to October. Afternoon showers are common, but mornings are often clear and the valleys turn green. This is also when the Guelaguetza takes place, a major July festival of regional dance and music held on the Mondays after July 16. Book many months ahead for those dates.
Day of the Dead, from October 31 to November 2, is the city's most famous celebration, with altars, cemetery vigils and parades. Some couples find it moving while others find it overwhelming, with prices and crowds to match. December 23 brings the quirky Night of the Radishes, when carved radish sculptures fill the Zócalo.
Where to Stay
Stay in the historic center, ideally within a few blocks of Santo Domingo. This area is walkable, full of restaurants and calmer at night than the streets right around the Zócalo.
The classic Oaxaca stay is a small hotel in a restored colonial house, with rooms around a courtyard of orange trees and a rooftop terrace for mezcal at sunset. Many have only a dozen or so rooms. The Quinta Real Oaxaca occupies a 16th-century convent with arcaded patios and a pool. Hotel Escondido Oaxaca, a design hotel from the group behind several Mexico City boutique properties, has a modern rooftop pool in the center.
Note that many budget and mid-range rooms in the city lack air conditioning, which matters most in April and May. For a quieter final night, some couples move out to a rural lodge in the valleys or to the coast at Puerto Escondido.
Romantic Things to Do
Climb Monte Albán early, before the sun gets strong. The ruins spread across a flattened mountaintop with views over three valleys. Morning light makes the stone platforms glow.
Spend a day on the road east of the city. Stop at the Árbol del Tule, a cypress with one of the widest trunks of any tree in the world. Continue to Teotitlán del Valle to watch weavers at their looms, then to Mitla for its intricate stone mosaics. Finish in Santiago Matatlán, the self-styled mezcal capital, for a tasting at a family palenque.
Hierve el Agua, a set of mineral pools on a cliff above what looks like a frozen waterfall, is about two hours away. Access is sometimes closed by local disputes, so confirm before you go.
Back in town, book a guided tour of the ethnobotanical garden behind Santo Domingo, then take a cooking class to learn to make mole together.
Getting There and Around
Oaxaca's airport is small but has nonstop service from the US, including American from Dallas/Fort Worth, United from Houston and Volaris from Los Angeles. Check current schedules, since frequencies vary. Many more flights connect through Mexico City, about an hour away by air.
From the airport, shared vans and fixed-price taxis run to the center in about 20 to 30 minutes. Buy tickets at the counter inside the terminal.
In the city you will walk almost everywhere. For day trips, hire a private driver or join a small-group tour. Driving yourself is possible, but local roads can be slow and unmarked. Protests and road blockades happen periodically in Oaxaca state, usually without warning, so having a local driver who knows the alternatives helps.
The coast at Puerto Escondido or Huatulco is a short flight away, while the drive over the mountains takes the better part of a day.
Food and Drink
Eat everywhere. Start at the Mercado 20 de Noviembre, where a smoky aisle of butchers will grill thin cuts of beef and chorizo for you to wrap in tortillas with salsa and onions. Try a tlayuda, a huge crisp tortilla spread with asiento and beans then topped with cheese and meat. Taste chapulines, toasted grasshoppers with lime and chile, at least once.
Order mole in several colors. Restaurants such as Los Danzantes, Casa Oaxaca and Criollo, run by chef Enrique Olvera and Luis Arellano, are good places for a special dinner. Book ahead.
Hot chocolate, often ground with almonds and cinnamon, is the classic morning drink. Visit the chocolate shops on Calle Mina to watch beans being ground.
Then there is mezcal. Sip it slowly from a small clay cup. Many mezcalerías offer tasting flights that make it easy to compare wild and cultivated agaves.
Honeymoon Tips
- Pace yourselves on mezcal. It is strong and the altitude adds to the effect.
- Wear sunscreen and hats at Monte Albán and Hierve el Agua. The highland sun burns quickly.
- Buy textiles and pottery directly from village workshops when you can. The money goes to the families who make them.
- Plan around the Guelaguetza and Day of the Dead. They are wonderful but double prices and fill hotels.
- Keep plans flexible on the road. Blockades happen. A relaxed day in the city is never a loss.
- Pack repellent for the rainy season and the coast. If you're pregnant or hoping to be soon, check CDC travel health notices for Mexico before you book.
- Dress in layers for churches and village visits. Shoulders covered is polite for both of you. Evenings turn cool, too.
