Why Honeymoon in Sainte-Anne
The south coast is where Martinique slows down. The sea is calmer than on the Atlantic shore or the black-sand beaches of the north, the sun shines more and the roads are short. You can be in the water within ten minutes of breakfast almost anywhere around Sainte-Anne.
It also keeps a local feel. French families fill the beaches on weekends with picnics and coolers, fishermen still land their catch at the town jetty and the market sells spices, punch coco and vanilla rather than souvenirs made elsewhere. Evenings are quiet. A plate of grilled fish, a ti-punch and the lights of Le Marin across the bay is about as wild as it gets.
For couples who want a beach base with real food and a French accent, without the scale of a megaresort, the south is the easy choice.
When to Go
The dry season, from roughly December to May, brings steady trade winds and the most reliable sunshine. The south is the driest part of the island. February through April is the classic window, though Christmas, New Year and the French school holidays in February push prices up and fill the beaches on weekends.
May and June are quieter and still mostly sunny, with warm water and lower rates. Late July can be lively with the Tour des Yoles Rondes sailing race, which passes the southern coast. From August to October rain and humidity increase and the hurricane season peaks, so some guesthouses and restaurants close for a few weeks. Even then, the south often stays drier than the mountainous north. Trade winds on the Atlantic side are best for kitesurfing from about December to June.
Where to Stay
Sainte-Anne itself has small hotels, guesthouses and apartments within walking distance of the waterfront, which suits couples who want to stroll to dinner. Club Med Les Boucaniers occupies a point at the edge of town if you prefer an all-inclusive with water sports.
The hills around town and the road toward Les Salines are dotted with rental villas, many with private pools and views over the water. These are often the most romantic option, though you will need a car. Around Cap Chevalier and the Atlantic lagoons, look for small lodges and gîtes with kayaks and easy access to the islets.
Le Marin, ten minutes away, has marina-side apartments and is the base for bareboat or crewed sailing charters. Some couples spend a few nights on land and then board a skippered catamaran for a short cruise along the coast.
Romantic Things to Do
Spend at least one full day at Les Salines. Arrive early on weekends to claim shade under the palms, walk the length of the beach and look for the Savane des Pétrifications, a dry, rocky landscape nearby once known for petrified wood.
Hike the Trace des Caps, a coastal path linking coves and headlands along the southeast shore. Shorter sections between Cap Chevalier and Les Salines make a good morning outing. Take a boat from Cap Chevalier to Îlet Chevalier to snorkel and watch iguanas.
Book a catamaran trip to the Fonds Blancs off Le François, where sandbars in the middle of the bay let you stand waist-deep in clear water. Charter a skippered boat from Le Marin for a sunset sail. Drive 30 minutes west to Le Diamant to see Diamond Rock rising from the sea and pay respects at the Anse Cafard slave memorial.
Getting There and Around
Fly into Martinique Aimé Césaire International (FDF) near Fort-de-France. American Airlines has nonstops from Miami. Other routes connect through Guadeloupe, Saint Lucia, San Juan or Montreal. The drive south to Sainte-Anne takes about 45 minutes to an hour, longer at rush hour around the capital.
Rent a car at the airport. Buses and shared taxis exist but are infrequent, especially on Sundays. A car lets you reach the quieter beaches and trailheads. Roads in the south are mostly flat and easy, though parking at Les Salines fills by mid-morning on weekends. Drive on the right.
Water taxis and day boats leave from Sainte-Anne, Le Marin and Cap Chevalier. If you plan to explore the north, allow two hours each way or move to a second base for a few nights.
Food and Drink
Start with accras, crisp fritters of salt cod or vegetables, with a ti-punch at a beach bar. Main courses lean on the sea: grilled spiny lobster, fish with sauce chien, octopus fricassee and lambi, or conch. Chicken or pork colombo, a curry brought by Indian laborers in the 19th century, is a local staple.
The beaches around Les Salines have casual snack bars for grilled fish and fries. Sainte-Anne's waterfront restaurants range from simple Creole spots to French bistros with good wine lists. On market mornings, stock up on fresh fruit, spices and bottles of local punch made with coconut or passion fruit.
For rum, visit a nearby distillery such as Trois-Rivières, near Sainte-Luce, or the Habitation Clément estate in Le François. Many restaurants close on Sunday evenings or Mondays, so check before you drive.
Honeymoon Tips
Go to the beaches on weekdays if you can. Weekends bring local families, music and full car parks, which is fun once but not every day.
Bring reef-safe sunscreen, a snorkel mask and water shoes for rocky coves. Manchineel trees grow along some beaches; they have small green apple-like fruit and toxic sap, so never shelter under them in the rain. Many are marked with a red band.
Carry some cash for snack bars and the market, though cards work in most restaurants and shops. Learn a few French phrases. If you plan to sail, book a skippered charter in advance during high season.
Finally, mention your honeymoon when booking villas and restaurants. A little advance notice can mean flowers in the room or a corner table facing the water.
