Why Honeymoon on Kiritimati
The flats are the reason. Miles of firm white sand and clear shallow water hold large numbers of bonefish. Anglers can spend a day sight casting to tailing fish. Giant trevally hunt the channels and reef edges, while offshore there are tuna and wahoo. For a couple who both fish, few destinations come close.
The atoll is also one of the Pacific's great bird sanctuaries. The entire island is a wildlife sanctuary, home to millions of seabirds including sooty terns, frigatebirds and masked boobies. Some areas are restricted. Visits to the main colonies need permission.
And there is the time zone. Kiritimati runs on UTC+14, so the clock reads the same as Honolulu but the calendar is one day ahead. Watching the sun rise over the Pacific knowing you are among the first to see it is a small thrill that never wears off.
When to Go
Temperatures barely change, with highs around 85°F to 87°F and lows in the mid 70s. Rainfall is what varies. It swings wildly from year to year.
The dry season usually runs from August through December, with very little rain in most months. This is the most comfortable and reliable time to visit.
Rain increases early in the year. April is typically the wettest month. Totals are still modest in normal years, but El Niño can bring several times the usual rain.
Fishing is good all year. Many anglers prefer the dry months for clearer water and lighter winds. Trade winds average around ten knots and can gust higher, so expect some breezy days on the flats.
Surfers visit in the northern winter for swells. Whatever month you choose, the weekly flight schedule sets your dates. Book early for popular fishing weeks in autumn.
Where to Stay
Kiritimati has only a few places to stay. Most sell all-inclusive packages covering room, meals and transfers. Fishing lodges usually include guides as well.
The government-run Captain Cook Hotel, a few miles from London, is the longest-established option. Other lodges cater mainly to anglers and are booked through specialist fly-fishing travel agencies in the US, which handle flights, permits and guiding in one package. A guided fishing week commonly costs several thousand dollars per angler, with a lower rate for a non-fishing partner at many lodges (approximate).
Rooms are simple: think clean, fan or air-conditioned rooms close to the water, not luxury suites. Power and water can be intermittent. Wi-Fi may be slow or limited.
For a honeymoon, ask the lodge about rooms with ocean views, a private veranda or a quieter location. Tell them you are newlyweds; small touches often appear.
Whatever you book, confirm exactly what is included, especially drinking water, airport transfers and guided days.
Romantic Things to Do
Spend a morning wading the flats together with a guide, casting to bonefish in knee-deep water. Even a non-angler can enjoy the walking and the light.
Arrange a visit to a seabird colony, such as Cook Island at the lagoon entrance, with the required permission. Thousands of birds nesting and wheeling overhead is an unusual shared memory.
Rise before dawn and watch the sun come up, knowing it is already tomorrow back home. On New Year's Eve, Kiritimati is one of the first inhabited places to welcome the year.
Snorkel or dive with the island's dive operator. The outer reef has clear water, turtles and plenty of fish.
Join a Sunday church service in a village. The singing is extraordinary.
Spend evenings outside. With almost no artificial light, the stars are spectacular.
Getting There and Around
Fiji Airways connects Honolulu and Kiritimati about once a week on its route to Nadi, a flight of about three and a half hours. Check the current schedule before booking anything else. If you miss it, the next flight may be a week later.
You cross the date line flying south, so you arrive a day later than you left. On the return to Honolulu, you get the day back.
Time your return carefully. Missing the weekly flight back means a week's wait, so book a flexible night or two in Honolulu rather than a tight same-day connection home.
Cassidy International Airport is near Banana village in the north. A single main road runs from the airport through the villages, including London. Lodges usually provide transfers. Fishing guides drive anglers to the flats.
Public transport is limited to local minibuses along the main road. Most visitors rely on their lodge for transport.
Food and Drink
Meals on Kiritimati are simple. Most visitors eat at their lodge as part of a package. Expect fresh fish, often tuna or reef fish, served with rice, plus imported staples.
There are a couple of small Chinese restaurants in town and a few local stores. Supplies arrive by ship and plane, so selection can be limited and some items may run out between deliveries.
Locals drink toddy made from coconut palm sap, sweet when fresh and fermented into something stronger. Imported beer and soft drinks are available, usually at modest prices.
If you want to toast with something special, bring a bottle with you within your customs allowance.
Drink only bottled or treated water and ask your lodge how they handle drinking water. Pack snacks and any dietary essentials, as you may not find them on the island.
Honeymoon Tips
Bring Australian dollars in cash. ATMs are scarce and card acceptance is limited.
Pack a full kit: reef-safe sunscreen, sun shirts, a wide-brimmed hat, polarized sunglasses and flats boots. The equatorial sun reflects off the water and sand.
Carry medications and a first aid kit. Medical facilities are basic. Serious problems require evacuation. Buy travel insurance with evacuation cover.
Use insect repellent, since dengue is present in Kiribati. If you're pregnant or hoping to be soon, check CDC travel health notices before you go.
Respect restricted bird areas and always ask before entering them.
Keep the itinerary loose. Flights can change and weather can shift plans.
Pair Kiritimati with a few nights in Hawaii before or after. It gives the non-angler a comfortable treat and you both a soft landing after a week of simple island living.