Why Honeymoon in Osaka
Osaka adds energy to a trip that might otherwise be all temples and gardens. Evenings are the highlight: wander Dotonbori under the giant moving signs, duck into a standing bar, share takoyaki from a street stall and end at a cocktail lounge 40 floors up.
It is also practical. The subway is easy, distances are manageable and hotels tend to cost less than equivalent rooms in Kyoto or Tokyo. From one base you can reach Kyoto, Nara and Kobe in well under an hour each.
For couples with different interests, Osaka has range. One of you may want Universal Studios Japan and its Super Nintendo World. The other might prefer Osaka Castle, the Museum of Oriental Ceramics or a slow soak at Spa World. Shoppers have Shinsaibashi and Umeda's department stores. Food lovers can spend days on markets and counters without repeating a meal.
When to Go
Spring and autumn are the best seasons. Cherry blossoms usually peak in late March to early April, with Osaka Castle park and the riverside Kema Sakuranomiya park among the best viewing spots. October and November bring clear, comfortable days and fall color in parks and nearby Minoo.
The rainy season runs from about early June to mid-July. Summer that follows is hot and humid, often with highs in the 90s Fahrenheit. July brings the Tenjin Matsuri, one of Japan's largest festivals, with river processions and fireworks. It is exciting but crowded.
Winter is cool and mostly dry, with few tourists outside the New Year holiday. It is a good time for hot pot dinners, illuminations and lower hotel rates.
Avoid Golden Week (roughly April 29 to May 5) and the mid-August Obon period if you dislike crowds and higher prices.
Where to Stay
Choose your base by the evenings you want.
- Kita, around Umeda and Osaka Station, is the business and shopping hub, with polished hotels and the best rail connections. The Ritz-Carlton Osaka is here, with a classic, traditional style.
- Nakanoshima, a long island between two rivers, is quieter and more elegant. The Conrad Osaka has its lobby on the 40th floor and big city views.
- Minami, around Namba and Shinsaibashi, is the place for nightlife and street food. The St. Regis Osaka sits on the tree-lined Midosuji boulevard between Kita and Minami.
For couples who want a lively walk home after dinner, Minami is hard to beat. For a calmer luxury stay, look at Nakanoshima or Kita. Approximate rates run from about $150 a night for two at good business hotels to $500 or more at top luxury properties, depending on the season.
Romantic Things to Do
Start in Dotonbori after dark, when the canal glows with neon and the crowds are at their liveliest. Take a short river cruise, then slip into Hozenji Yokocho, a stone-paved alley of small restaurants around a moss-covered statue that visitors splash with water for luck.
Visit Osaka Castle in the morning. The main keep is a modern reconstruction, but the huge stone walls and moats are original. The park is lovely in spring.
At sunset, ride up the Umeda Sky Building to its open-air Floating Garden Observatory, where a rooftop walkway circles high above the city. Abeno Harukas, one of Japan's tallest buildings, has another strong view.
Take a day trip to Nara to see Todaiji's giant Buddha and the free-roaming deer. Kobe is good for beef and a harbor stroll. Himeji Castle is reachable in under an hour by Shinkansen.
Getting There and Around
Kansai International (KIX) has had nonstop flights from Honolulu and from a few US cities, usually on the West Coast. Routes change often. Many couples instead fly into Tokyo and take the Shinkansen to Shin-Osaka, which takes about two and a half hours.
From KIX, the Nankai Rapi:t reaches Namba in about 40 minutes, while the JR Haruka runs to Tennoji, Shin-Osaka and Kyoto. Limousine buses serve major hotels. Itami Airport (ITM), closer to the city, handles domestic flights.
In the city, the subway and JR loop line cover nearly everything. Load an IC card such as ICOCA or add one to your phone, then tap in and out.
Taxis are clean, safe and plentiful, which helps late at night after trains stop around midnight. Fares are higher than in many US cities for short hops but reasonable when shared.
Food and Drink
Osaka is famous for konamon, dishes made from batter. Takoyaki are octopus balls cooked in special pans, crisp outside and molten inside. Okonomiyaki is a savory cabbage pancake grilled at your table, often topped with pork, seafood, sauce and mayonnaise.
Kushikatsu, skewers of meat and vegetables deep-fried in breadcrumbs, are the signature dish of the retro Shinsekai district. Dip once in the shared sauce and never again after biting.
Kuromon Market, near Namba, has fresh seafood, wagyu skewers and fruit, though it has become pricey and busy. Go in the morning.
For special nights, the city has many kappo counters, where chefs cook in front of you, as well as fine-dining kaiseki. Reserve ahead. Osaka's bar scene ranges from tiny standing bars to high-rise lounges. Japanese whisky is easy to find, with the Yamazaki distillery not far away.
Honeymoon Tips
Book a hotel within a short walk of a subway station. Osaka is large. A good location saves time on day trips.
Reserve popular restaurants, high-end sushi and Yamazaki distillery tours in advance. Many book weeks ahead, especially in spring and autumn.
Osaka is safe, including at night. In the Minami nightlife area, ignore street touts offering bars or clubs, since some lead to inflated bills. Choose places with clear prices.
Pack comfortable shoes. A day in Osaka plus a day trip to Nara or Kyoto easily adds up to many miles of walking.
Stand on the right side of escalators in Osaka, unlike Tokyo, where people stand on the left. Tipping is not expected anywhere. Most places accept cards, though small food stalls may be cash only. Carry some yen for street snacks and shrine offerings.
