The Scenery
El Nido is the more dramatic of the two. Gray limestone walls rise straight from Bacuit Bay, fringed with trees. Between them sit lagoons so enclosed that the noise of the boats simply stops when you paddle in. The water shifts from turquoise to jade with the light and tide. Big Lagoon, Small Lagoon and Secret Lagoon are the stars. Even the beach lunches happen on coves that disappear at high tide.
Koh Lanta's beauty is wider and calmer. The west coast is lined almost entirely with sand facing the Andaman Sea, backed by a forested spine of hills. The farther south you go, the quieter it gets, down to coves with a single resort and a lighthouse in the national park at the southern tip. The limestone drama is offshore, at places such as Koh Mook's Emerald Cave.
If you want to gasp, El Nido wins. If you want to exhale, Lanta does it beautifully.
Snorkeling and Boat Days
Both are strong bases for days on the water. In El Nido, a private bangka is the best splurge of the trip. Leave at 7 a.m. and you reach Big Lagoon before the convoys of shared tours arrive. The crew cooks lunch on a beach, usually grilled fish, pork skewers and rice. Reefs with clownfish and giant clams are close to shore. Some lagoons are kayak-only with capped visitor numbers.
Koh Lanta is one of the best bases for snorkeling and diving on Thailand's Andaman side. Koh Rok, two small islands about 30 miles south, has white sand and shallow reefs full of fish. The four-island trip includes the swim through a dark sea tunnel into the Emerald Cave at Koh Mook, best at low tide. Divers can head to Hin Daeng and Hin Muang, deep pinnacles where manta rays and whale sharks are sometimes seen in season.
For snorkelers it is close to a tie. For lagoon scenery, El Nido. For diving, Lanta.
Where to Stay
El Nido's standout stays are the island resorts in Bacuit Bay. Pangulasian Island is the most upscale, with pool villas and a long beach. Lagen Island has water cottages against a forested cove and the calmest feel. Cauayan Island Resort and Spa is another island option. Meal plans vary by resort and package, so check what your rate covers; El Nido Resorts packages usually include breakfast and guided island hopping. On the mainland, Lio's beach district has walkable restaurants. Marimegmeg Beach faces west for sunsets. El Nido town is cheapest but loud.
On Koh Lanta, Pimalai Resort and Spa sits on a hillside above Kantiang Bay, with pool villas that have long been popular with honeymooners. Kantiang and Klong Nin are the quieter, prettier middle of the coast. Long Beach and Klong Dao, near the Saladan ferry pier, suit couples who like to walk to dinner.
Lanta generally gives you more resort for your money; El Nido gives you a more unusual setting.
Seasons
Both follow the southwest monsoon, so their calendars are similar. El Nido's dry season runs from about December to May, with January through April the sweet spot. April and May are the driest and hottest months. The monsoon arrives in June, rainfall peaks around August and swells can cancel island-hopping tours.
Koh Lanta is at its best from December through March, with calm seas and clear water. By late March and April it gets hot and the hills turn brown, though the sea stays clear. From May to October the monsoon brings rain and rougher water, many small bungalows and restaurants close, some ferry routes stop and larger resorts discount deeply.
In practice, February and March are excellent in both. If you travel in April or May, El Nido has the edge. In the monsoon months neither is ideal for boat days, though Lanta's open resorts are a reasonable low-season deal if you mostly want a pool and a quiet room.
Getting There
El Nido needs two flights after the long haul. The easiest route is Manila to El Nido's small Lio Airport on AirSWIFT, about 1 hour 15 minutes, with a tight baggage allowance and higher fares than other domestic flights. The cheaper alternative is flying to Puerto Princesa (PPS) and taking a van five to six hours north. Philippine Airlines flies nonstop from the US to Manila, which shortens the first leg.
Koh Lanta usually means connecting to Bangkok through an Asian or Middle Eastern hub, flying to Krabi (KBV) and taking a van transfer of about 2.5 hours that includes a short car ferry and a bridge. In the dry season, passenger ferries and speedboats also link Lanta with Ao Nang, Railay, Koh Phi Phi and Phuket.
Neither is quick. El Nido's small-plane flights are more prone to delays, so keep your last night in Manila. Lanta's ferry queues can build on busy afternoons.
Food and Island Life
Koh Lanta has the more interesting food culture. Beach restaurants display the day's catch on ice and grill it with chili and lime sauces, southern curries are fiery and massaman curry has Muslim roots in the south. Lanta Old Town on the east coast has restaurants on stilts over the water. Much of the local population is Muslim, so a few family places do not serve alcohol, though resorts and beach bars do. Bring a light cover-up for Old Town and village visits.
In El Nido, seafood leads: grilled squid, garlic prawns, lapu-lapu and kinilaw, raw fish cured in vinegar and calamansi. Boat-day lunches are often the best meals. El Nido town's waterfront mixes Filipino grills, wood-fired pizza and backpacker cafes.
Nightlife is low-key in both, which suits most honeymooners. In both, carry cash. El Nido's ATMs sometimes run empty. Lanta's cluster around Saladan and Long Beach.
Building the Rest of Your Trip
Each slots into a different itinerary. El Nido's natural partner is Coron, about four hours north by fast ferry in calm weather, for clear lakes and World War II wrecks. Together they make a ten-day Palawan honeymoon with a night in Manila at each end.
Koh Lanta's natural partners are Railay and the Phi Phi Islands, a ferry ride away in high season. A popular plan is a few nights near Railay for limestone drama, then a longer, quieter stretch on Lanta. Add Bangkok or Chiang Rai and you have a classic Thai honeymoon.
Combining El Nido and Koh Lanta in one trip is possible via Manila and Bangkok, but it costs a full day or more of travel each way. Most couples are better off picking a country. For a first trip to Asia with less tolerance for delays, Lanta and Thailand are simpler. For couples who have done Thailand already, El Nido feels like a step up in scenery.
