Why Honeymoon in El Nido
Few places give you this much scenery from a boat seat. In a single day you can kayak into Big Lagoon, swim through a gap in the rock to reach Secret Lagoon and snorkel coral gardens with clownfish and giant clams. Then you can eat lunch on a cove that disappears at high tide.
The resorts are the other reason. El Nido Resorts runs a handful of island properties in the bay, each on its own island, where the boat transfer becomes part of the stay and dinner is often served on the sand. You get the bay at its quietest, early in the morning before the day-tour boats arrive from town.
It also suits couples who like to move a little. There is a via ferrata up Taraw Cliff above town, a zipline across to Depeldet Islet and a long, nearly empty beach at Nacpan when you need space.
When to Go
The dry season runs from about December to May. January through April is the sweet spot, when seas are calm, skies are clear and boats run every day. April and May are the driest months and also the hottest, so start boat days early and bring a sun shirt.
The southwest monsoon arrives in June and rainfall peaks around August. Rain usually comes in bursts, not all day, but swells can cancel island-hopping tours and the fast ferry to Coron. Visibility also drops underwater. Some couples gamble on June or November for lower rates and fewer boats. It can pay off, as long as you have a spare day or two.
Christmas, New Year and Holy Week before Easter are the busiest stretches of the year. Book resorts and the small-plane flights in from Manila several months ahead for those dates.
Where to Stay
Out in the bay, El Nido Resorts has two island properties worth knowing. Pangulasian Island is the most upscale, with pool villas and a long beach on the south side of the bay. Lagen Island has water cottages set against a forested cove and the calmest feel. Packages usually include breakfast and guided island hopping, so check which meals your rate covers before comparing prices.
On the mainland, the Lio area near the airport is a planned beach district with walkable restaurants and a long stretch of sand, a good pick if you want sunsets without the town crush. Marimegmeg Beach and Las Cabanas have small hotels facing west. Staying in El Nido town is cheapest and closest to the tour boats, but it is loud and the beach is a working harbor.
Romantic Things to Do
Book a private bangka for at least one day. Shared tours (labeled A through D) are fine and cheap, but the boats move in a convoy and lagoons fill up by midmorning. With your own boat you can leave at 7 a.m. and reach Big Lagoon first.
Paddle in. Some lagoons are kayak-only and visitor numbers are capped, so the boat crew or your resort will handle the slot. Small Lagoon, entered through a low gap in the rock, is the most intimate.
On land, spend an afternoon on Nacpan Beach, a long arc of sand about 45 minutes north of town where the twin beach of Calitang is visible from the viewpoint above. End a day at Las Cabanas, where you can zipline over to Depeldet Islet and then sit with a drink as the sun drops behind the islands.
Getting There and Around
The easy route is a direct flight from Manila to El Nido's small Lio Airport on AirSWIFT, about 1 hour 15 minutes. It is pricier than other domestic flights and the baggage allowance is tight, so pack light or pay for extra weight in advance.
The cheaper route is a flight to Puerto Princesa (PPS), then a van north for roughly five to six hours on a winding road. Private vans cost more but stop when you want. Resort guests are usually met at the airport and taken straight to the boat.
From Coron, a fast ferry runs south to El Nido in about four hours in the dry season. It is often canceled in rough weather.
In El Nido, tricycles are the taxis. Agree on the fare before you get in. Many couples hire a scooter to reach Nacpan, but the road has potholes and stray dogs.
Food and Drink
Seafood is the obvious order: grilled squid, garlic prawns, lapu-lapu (grouper) and kinilaw, raw fish cured in vinegar and calamansi with onion and chili. On boat days the crew cooks lunch, usually grilled fish, pork skewers, rice, salad and a whole pile of mango or watermelon. It is often the best meal of the trip.
In town, the waterfront strip along the main beach has plenty of casual bars and restaurants with sunset seating. Expect a mix of Filipino, Italian wood-fired pizza and health-food cafes catering to backpackers. Lio has a cluster of restaurants that suit a slower evening.
Try a halo-halo in the afternoon heat and a calamansi juice at breakfast. Tap water is not for drinking. Resorts provide filtered water and many cafes refill bottles for a small fee.
Honeymoon Tips
Bring a dry bag and water shoes. Boats drop you in shallow water over coral and rock. Phones get splashed.
Cash matters here more than in Manila. Pay the environmental fee in pesos, tip the boat crew in cash and carry enough for a few days, because the ATMs in town are sometimes empty.
Wear a rash guard and reef-safe sunscreen. The midday sun on the water is fierce and the reefs are protected.
If you stay on an island resort, tell them it is your honeymoon when you book. Staff often arrange a beach dinner or a decorated room. Finally, keep the last night of your trip in Manila or Puerto Princesa rather than El Nido, so a delayed small-plane flight cannot cost you your flight home.
