Why Honeymoon in Paraty
Paraty gives you two trips in one place. The town itself is an atmospheric place to wander, with galleries, small churches and courtyards hung with bougainvillea. A few minutes away by boat or car, you are swimming off an island beach or sliding down a waterfall in the forest.
It is also a gentle counterpoint to Rio. Streets are walkable, the pace is unhurried and the main decision of the day is often which beach your boat should stop at for lunch. Couples who like a bit of history with their swimming tend to love it.
When to Go
May through October is the best time for clear skies and dry trails. Days are warm and evenings can be cool enough for a light sweater, especially in June and July. The sea is cooler but fine for swimming on sunny afternoons.
December to March is hot, humid and the rainiest period, with heavy downpours that can muddy forest roads and cloud the bay. It is also Brazilian summer holiday time, so Paraty is busy around New Year and Carnival.
April and November are good shoulder months. Paraty hosts cultural events through the year, including a well-known literary festival, so check dates before booking.
Where to Stay
Stay inside or at the edge of the historic center so you can walk to dinner. Many pousadas occupy restored colonial houses with interior courtyards, small pools and heavy wooden shutters.
Casa Turquesa is a polished boutique hotel in a historic townhouse, with just a handful of suites and a strong reputation among couples. Pousada do Ouro, also in the center, has larger grounds and a pool.
For something wilder, a few pousadas sit on the bay or in Saco do Mamanguá and are reached only by boat. They trade restaurants for silence and starry skies.
Romantic Things to Do
Hire a private boat for a day in the bay rather than joining a crowded schooner. Choose your own beaches, swim off the side and stop for grilled fish on an island.
Paddle a kayak into Saco do Mamanguá, a long, narrow inlet lined with forest and mangroves. Its calm water is good for beginners.
Drive to Trindade, about 30 minutes away, for wild beaches and a natural rock pool you reach by a short walk. Visit a cachaça distillery in the hills, where Paraty has made sugarcane spirit for centuries. Ride the natural rock slide at Cachoeira do Tobogã if you are feeling brave.
Getting There and Around
Most couples come from Rio, about 155 miles away along the BR-101 coastal highway, roughly four to five hours by car depending on traffic. A private transfer is the easiest choice and can stop at viewpoints on the way. Buses run from Rio and São Paulo too. São Paulo is about five to six hours away.
In town, walk. The historic center is closed to cars and the stones are uneven, so leave heels at home. For beaches, waterfalls and Trindade, hire a driver, rent a car or book a tour. Boats leave from the town pier.
Food and Drink
Paraty's food blends seafood from the bay with the traditions of the caiçaras, the coastal fishing families of this region. Look for fish cooked with green banana, shrimp stews and fried fish on the beach.
The town is also a cachaça capital. Small local distilleries produce aged and flavored versions, some infused with clove and cinnamon in a style called Gabriela. Tasting rooms in the center let you try several before buying a bottle.
In the evenings, restaurants in the historic center set candlelit tables in courtyards. Reservations help on weekends.
Honeymoon Tips
Wear sneakers or sturdy sandals in town. The old paving stones are large and slippery when wet.
At spring tides the sea flows into the lowest streets, which is by design; enjoy it rather than worry about it.
Pair Paraty with Ilha Grande for more beach time. The island has no cars and is reached by boat from Angra dos Reis or Conceição de Jacareí, which sit on the road back toward Rio.
Bring repellent for evenings and waterfall visits. Midweek stays are quieter and often cheaper than weekends, when visitors arrive from Rio and São Paulo.