Why Honeymoon in Colonia del Sacramento
Colonia has a gentle, old-world romance. The historic quarter is car-light, the pace is slow and there is little to do but wander, eat and watch the light change over the water. Couples who have just spent a few busy days in Buenos Aires find it restful.
It is also beautiful in a small way. The streets are lined with low colonial houses, many turned into cafés, galleries and small hotels. Old cars parked on the corners have become part of the scenery, some converted into flower planters or tables.
The sunsets are the main event. Colonia faces west across the wide brown River Plate. Every evening people gather along the waterfront and the old walls to watch the sun go down.
It is easy to combine with other places. Buenos Aires is about an hour away by fast ferry, Montevideo is two and a half hours by road and the vineyards of Carmelo are about an hour west. Colonia works as a peaceful bridge between Argentina and the Uruguayan coast.
When to Go
Colonia is pleasant much of the year, but the best months for a honeymoon are spring and late summer to autumn.
October and November bring mild weather, flowering trees and fewer visitors. March and April are warm, with clear skies and sunsets over the river. These are ideal months for walking and cycling.
Summer, from December to February, is hot, with highs often in the 80s. The town is busy, especially on weekends, when visitors arrive on the ferries from Buenos Aires. Evenings are long and lively, with outdoor dining until late.
Winter, from June to August, is cool and damp, with highs in the 50s. The town is quiet and some places close or shorten hours, but it can be cozy, with fireplaces in hotels and restaurants and a calm that some couples love.
Weekends year-round are busier than weekdays because of the day-trippers from Buenos Aires. If possible, plan your stay for midweek nights, when the old town is at its most peaceful.
Where to Stay
Stay inside or right next to the Barrio Histórico, the old quarter. That way you can walk out at sunset and back after dinner. You get the town to yourselves in the early morning.
Colonia's hotels are mostly small. Many are posadas in restored colonial or nineteenth-century houses, with courtyards, patios and a handful of rooms. Look for ones with a terrace facing the river for sunset views. A few larger hotels on the edge of the old quarter have pools and more space.
For a more resort-style stay, look east of town along the river, where some hotels have private beaches, gardens and spas.
Carmelo, about an hour west, is a good second base. Four Seasons Resort Carmelo sits among pine forests along the river, with bungalows and a spa. Narbona Wine Lodge is a boutique inn set on a vineyard and dairy farm. Both pair well with a couple of nights in Colonia.
Book early for summer weekends and holidays, when Argentine visitors fill the town.
Romantic Things to Do
Walk the Calle de los Suspiros, the Street of Sighs, the best-known lane in the old town, with uneven stones sloping down to the river. Go early in the morning or late in the afternoon for soft light and fewer people.
Climb the lighthouse beside the ruins of the old San Francisco convent. The stairs are narrow, but the view over the rooftops and the river is worth it.
Walk through the Portón de Campo, the old city gate with its drawbridge, then follow the restored walls.
Watch the sunset from the waterfront. Bring a bottle of wine and find a spot on the rocks or the old walls.
Rent bikes or a golf cart and ride along the river to the Real de San Carlos, an early twentieth-century tourist complex with a restored bullring and old jai alai court.
Visit the small museums of the old town, which tell the story of the Portuguese and Spanish struggle for the town.
Spend a day in Carmelo for wine tastings, river views and a long lunch.
Getting There and Around
From Buenos Aires, fast ferries cross the River Plate to Colonia in about an hour to an hour and a quarter. Several companies operate the route with multiple departures daily. Book ahead for weekends and holidays. Arrive early for immigration, which is handled at the port.
From Montevideo, Colonia is about two and a half hours by car or bus along a good highway. Buses are comfortable and frequent. Montevideo's Carrasco airport (MVD) is the main international gateway on the Uruguayan side.
Once in Colonia, the historic quarter is best explored on foot. The streets are uneven, so wear flat shoes.
For exploring beyond the old town, rent bikes, scooters or golf carts, which are popular with visitors. A car is useful if you want to visit Carmelo or wineries in the countryside. The drive to Carmelo takes about an hour.
If you are flying home from Buenos Aires, leave plenty of time for the ferry back and the transfer to Ezeiza airport.
Food and Drink
Colonia's restaurants lean on Uruguayan classics: grilled meats, fresh pasta and fish from the river. Many set tables on the cobbled streets in the evening, which is the best way to eat here.
Try a parrillada, a mixed grill of beef cuts, sausage and sweetbreads, with a glass of Tannat. For something lighter, order grilled river fish such as surubí or the local white fish with lemon.
Pasta is a specialty in Uruguay thanks to Italian immigrants. Look for homemade sorrentinos, round stuffed pasta, with cream or tomato sauce.
For dessert, try anything with dulce de leche, from pancakes to ice cream. Martín Fierro, cheese with quince paste, is a classic simple dessert.
Colonia is the gateway to some of Uruguay's oldest wine regions. Wineries around Carmelo and Colonia offer tastings of Tannat, Merlot and other varieties, often with lunch.
In the morning, sit at a café near the Plaza Mayor with a cortado and medialunas, Uruguay's sweet croissants.
Honeymoon Tips
Stay overnight. Day-trippers miss the best parts of Colonia: the sunset, the evening atmosphere and the quiet morning streets.
Avoid weekends if you can. The town is busiest on Saturdays and Sundays, when ferry passengers from Buenos Aires arrive.
Wear comfortable shoes. The cobblestones are uneven and slippery after rain.
Book ferries early, especially in summer and on holidays. Check the luggage rules if you are carrying a lot.
Carry some cash. Most places accept cards, but small shops and some restaurants prefer pesos or US dollars.
Pay for meals with a foreign card if you can and ask whether the tourist VAT discount applies, since it can bring savings.
Plan for the sunset. Find your spot about half an hour before. Bring a jacket, because the wind picks up by the water in the evening.
If you are combining Colonia with Carmelo, consider renting a car for the drive and the wineries.
