Why Honeymoon in Aït Benhaddou and Ouarzazate
The scenery is cinematic in the literal sense. The ksar of Aït Benhaddou looks like a set because it has been one many times, but people still live here and the honey-colored walls are real, rebuilt by hand with earth and straw.
The region gives you a taste of the south without the commitment of a desert camp. You can sleep in comfortable kasbah hotels, swim in a pool among palm groves and eat by candlelight under the stars.
It also breaks up the journey between Marrakech and the Sahara. The drive over the High Atlas is long and a night here turns it from an endurance test into a highlight. For couples who love photography, the light at dawn and dusk is extraordinary.
When to Go
March to May and September to November are the best months. Days are warm and sunny, nights are cool and the light is soft. Spring brings green fields in the oases and the rose harvest in the Dades Valley, usually in May.
June to August is very hot, often above 100°F in the afternoon. Plan sightseeing for early morning and evening and choose a hotel with a pool.
December to February has bright, mild days but cold nights that can drop near freezing. Snow can close the Tizi n'Tichka pass for short periods. Many kasbah hotels have fireplaces and heating, which makes winter stays cozy, but bring warm layers.
Where to Stay
Aït Benhaddou village, on the opposite bank of the river from the ksar, has guesthouses and small hotels with terraces facing the old village. Staying here means you can see the ksar at sunrise and sunset, when the day-trippers have gone.
Skoura, about 40 km east of Ouarzazate, is a vast palm grove with restored kasbahs turned into boutique hotels. Dar Ahlam is the best known, a luxury kasbah hotel in the palm grove and there are several smaller, simpler kasbah guesthouses.
Ouarzazate has larger hotels, some with big pools and spas and is practical for the airport. It is less atmospheric than the villages.
Most hotels include breakfast and offer dinner, which is useful since restaurants outside Ouarzazate are few.
Romantic Things to Do
Climb through the lanes of Aït Benhaddou to the ruined granary at the top of the hill. The view over the river, the palm groves and the mountains is best at sunset. Cross the river on the pedestrian bridge or wade through when the water is low.
Drive the Tizi n'Tichka pass over the High Atlas, one of Morocco's most dramatic roads, with switchbacks and Berber villages along the way.
Detour to Telouet to see the kasbah of the Glaoui family, whose painted and tiled rooms show the wealth of the lords who once controlled this route.
Visit the Taourirt Kasbah in Ouarzazate and tour the Atlas Studios film sets. Wander the Skoura palm grove on foot or by bike. Spend a night stargazing on your hotel roof.
Getting There and Around
Royal Air Maroc flies nonstop to Casablanca from several US cities. From there, domestic flights reach Ouarzazate Airport (OZZ), which is about 30 to 40 minutes by car from Aït Benhaddou.
Most couples come by road from Marrakech, about three and a half to four hours over the Tizi n'Tichka pass. The road is good but winding, with steep drops. A private driver is the most relaxing option and lets you stop for photos.
From here, the route continues east through Skoura, the Valley of Roses and the Dades and Todra gorges toward Merzouga and the Sahara dunes. Many couples hire a driver for a three or four day trip from Marrakech to the desert, with a night here on the way. A car is necessary to explore; public transport is limited.
Food and Drink
Meals are mostly taken in your hotel or guesthouse. Tagines cooked slowly over charcoal are the staple, with chicken and preserved lemon, lamb with prunes or vegetables from the palm grove gardens.
The Berber omelette, eggs cooked in a tagine with tomato and spices, is a common breakfast or lunch. Harira soup and couscous appear often and fresh bread comes from clay ovens.
Dates, almonds and figs grow in the oases. In the Dades Valley, look for rose water and rose products.
Alcohol is limited. Larger hotels in Ouarzazate and some kasbah hotels serve wine and beer, but small guesthouses often do not. Mint tea is served with every welcome.
Honeymoon Tips
Dress modestly in villages. Both of you should cover shoulders and knees and light, loose clothing helps in the heat.
Bring warm layers. Desert nights can be cold, even after hot days.
If you drive yourself, avoid driving the mountain roads at night. Hiring a driver is safer and more relaxing.
Ask before photographing people. Guides in Aït Benhaddou will offer tours; agree on a price first, or walk on your own.
Carry cash. ATMs are in Ouarzazate, but villages have few.
Morocco carries a Level 2 State Department advisory for terrorism. The southern tourist route is generally safe and well traveled. Entry and visa rules depend on your citizenship and can change at short notice, so check the official government website before you book.
