Why Honeymoon on Gozo
Gozo offers privacy at a price far below a private villa in Greece or Italy. A restored farmhouse with your own pool, a shaded courtyard and a roof terrace for sunset drinks is the classic Gozitan stay. Most sit at the edge of quiet villages such as Għarb, Żebbuġ or Xagħra.
The coast is dramatic. Sheer cliffs, sea caves and narrow inlets make for spectacular swimming and snorkeling. Ramla Bay, on the north shore, is one of the best sandy beaches in the islands.
History is never far away. The temples at Ġgantija, on the edge of Xagħra, rank among the oldest freestanding structures in the world, older than the pyramids at Giza. The hilltop Citadel in Victoria has guarded the island since the Middle Ages.
Gozo is also close enough to Malta that you can day-trip to Valletta. Most couples who stay here find they have little reason to leave.
When to Go
April to June and September to October are the best months. Spring brings green fields and wildflowers along the cliffs, ideal for walking. By June the sea is warm enough for long swims. September and October offer the warmest water of the year with fewer visitors.
July and August are hot and the busiest time on the island, especially on weekends, when many Maltese cross over for their holidays. Village festas fill summer weekends with fireworks and band marches. Ferries and popular beaches get crowded. Farmhouses book up early.
November to March is quiet and mild, with occasional strong winds that can cancel boat trips and rough up the sea. Some restaurants close or shorten hours. It is a lovely season for walking, eating and lazing in a farmhouse with a fireplace, though not for beach days.
Divers can visit year-round. Water clarity is often best in the cooler months.
Where to Stay
Farmhouses are Gozo's signature. Many are centuries-old stone houses restored with modern kitchens, air conditioning and private pools. They suit couples who enjoy cooking a few meals, reading by the pool and driving out for dinner. Check whether the pool is fully private, how far it is to the nearest restaurant and whether the house has a view.
Hotels cluster in a few areas. Xlendi, a small resort at the end of a narrow bay in the southwest, has seafront restaurants and swimming off the rocks. Marsalforn, on the north coast, is the island's main resort, livelier and more practical. Mġarr, the ferry harbor, has a pretty marina and several hotels above the port. A few upscale hotels sit on clifftops near San Lawrenz and Sannat.
If you will not rent a car, stay in Xlendi, Marsalforn or Victoria, where buses and taxis are easiest to find. Farmhouses really need a car.
Romantic Things to Do
Swim at Ramla Bay, a wide crescent of reddish-gold sand below terraced hills. Go early or late in summer to have more of it to yourselves.
Visit Dwejra on the west coast. The famous Azure Window arch collapsed into the sea in 2017, but the area remains spectacular. The Inland Sea is a lagoon connected to the open water by a tunnel through the cliff. Small boats run through it and snorkelers follow. Nearby, the Blue Hole is one of the island's best-known dive sites.
Watch sunset over the salt pans at Xwejni, near Marsalforn, where families still harvest sea salt from pans cut into the rock.
Walk the Citadel walls in Victoria for a view across the whole island.
See the Ġgantija temples, then visit the basilica of Ta' Pinu standing alone in the fields.
Take an early boat to the Blue Lagoon on Comino before the tour boats from Malta arrive.
Getting There and Around
From Malta International Airport, drive or take a taxi to Ċirkewwa at the northern tip of Malta, about 45 minutes to an hour. Car ferries run frequently to Mġarr on Gozo. The crossing takes about 25 minutes. You generally pay on the return trip from Gozo rather than on the way out.
A fast passenger ferry links Valletta with Mġarr in about 45 minutes, convenient if you are staying in the capital and not bringing a car. Some hotels and farmhouse owners can arrange airport transfers that include the ferry.
On Gozo, a rental car is the easiest way to get around. Distances are short and no drive takes much more than 20 or 30 minutes. Remember that traffic keeps left. Buses radiate from the terminal in Victoria to most villages, but services can be infrequent. Taxis are available but should be booked ahead in quieter areas. Boat trips to Comino leave from Mġarr and from several harbors.
Food and Drink
Gozitan food is simple and strongly local. Look for ġbejniet, small rounds of sheep's milk cheese served fresh, dried or peppered. Gozitan ftira is a thin, pizza-like bread topped with potatoes, onions, anchovies, capers or cheese, baked in wood ovens in villages such as Nadur and Xagħra.
Seafood is best around the harbors at Xlendi, Marsalforn and Mġarr. Order the day's catch grilled, octopus or lampuki in season. Rabbit stew is as popular here as on Malta.
Gozo grows capers, honey, sun-dried tomatoes and grapes. Several small wineries produce local wines. Some offer tastings. A bottle bought from a village shop and opened on your farmhouse terrace is what a Gozo evening is about.
Dinner in a village square is a pleasure in summer. Book ahead for harbor restaurants on weekends, when Maltese visitors fill the tables.
Honeymoon Tips
Rent a car. It makes farmhouse living easy and lets you swim at a different cove every day.
Bring water shoes. Much of the swimming is off rocks. There are sea urchins in places.
Visit Comino early. The Blue Lagoon gets very crowded by late morning in summer. Malta has been introducing visitor limits there, so check whether advance booking is required before you go.
Plan around the wind. A strong northwesterly can make the north coast choppy while the south coast stays calm. On other days it works the other way around.
Make time for a dive or a guided snorkel. Even beginners can try an introductory dive in very clear water.
If you are arriving late in the day, check the last ferry times in the off-season and allow for queues on summer weekends.
