Getting Between Stops
Prague to Vienna takes about four hours by train and Vienna to Budapest about two and a half on Railjet trains. Book seat reservations ahead in summer. Budapest to Lake Balaton's north shore is about 90 minutes to two hours by car. The drive back to Budapest Airport takes about the same.
In the cities, walk and use public transport. In Prague, buy tickets in the PID Lítačka app or validate paper tickets when you board, because inspectors do check. Vienna's trams, U-Bahn and buses share one ticket. A seven-day pass beats taxis even for two. In Budapest, trams 2, 4 and 6 cover the riverfront, Bolt and metered taxis are reasonably priced and Uber does not operate.
Rent the car in Budapest only on the morning you leave for Balaton. Trains also run from Budapest along the north shore, but a car makes wine estates and inland villages far easier. Car ferries cross between Tihany and Szántód in about 10 to 15 minutes.
Where to Stay
In Prague, The Augustine sits partly in a working monastery in Malá Strana. The Aria Hotel is a music-themed boutique beside a Baroque garden. The Four Seasons Hotel Prague faces the castle across the river from the Old Town bank.
In Vienna, Hotel Sacher Wien and Hotel Imperial deliver the full imperial treatment, while Rosewood Vienna and Park Hyatt Vienna feel more contemporary.
In Budapest, Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace faces the Chain Bridge and Matild Palace is a restored palace near Elisabeth Bridge. Aria Hotel Budapest near St. Stephen's Basilica is known for its rooftop bar. Avoid District VII if you want quiet nights.
On Lake Balaton, the north shore is the honeymoon side. Tihany empties of day-trippers in the evening. Balatonfüred has the widest choice of hotels. Guesthouses and estate inns around Badacsony and the Káli Basin often have pools and vineyard views. Hévíz at the western end has larger spa hotels.
When to Go
May, June and September give the best balance across all four stops. Highs sit in the 60s and 70s Fahrenheit, beer gardens and café terraces fill every evening and Vienna's opera season is running. Book well ahead for these months.
July and August are warm and busiest. Midday crowds on the Charles Bridge can be overwhelming, Budapest averages highs near 84°F with occasional heat waves, air conditioning in older buildings can be patchy and the State Opera breaks for summer. The upside is Balaton at its best, with warm water and every terrace open late. Book lake stays months ahead.
From late November to early January, Christmas markets fill all three capitals and an outdoor bath in Budapest's cold air is wonderful. Balaton largely closes from October to April, though Hévíz's thermal lake stays warm all year. In winter, swap the lake nights for Hévíz or an extra night in Budapest.
Budget and Booking
Plan on roughly $250–750 a night for two in boutique to luxury hotels, with Vienna at the higher end and Prague and Balaton lower. Luxury costs noticeably less here than in Paris or London, which makes a grand hotel night in each city realistic. All prices are approximate and rise in summer and December.
Book in this order: hotels for May, June and September, then Vienna opera or Musikverein seats, which sell out weeks ahead, then trains, Prague Castle tickets and the Budapest bath sessions. Pick one splurge dinner in Budapest and reserve it well ahead.
Always pay in local currency on card machines: koruna in Prague, euros in Vienna and forints in Budapest. Change money only at banks or reputable offices. Many Budapest restaurants add a 10 to 15 percent service charge, so read the bill before tipping again. Carry forints for Balaton wine cellars, beach tickets and snack stands.
Practical Tips for Couples
Dress smartly for the opera and better restaurants in Vienna. A jacket or a dress fits in everywhere. The same outfit covers concerts in Prague and Budapest. Pack shoes with grip for cobblestones and castle hills in all three cities.
Keep phones and wallets zipped on the Charles Bridge, on crowded trams and around Prague's Astronomical Clock, which draws pickpockets as well as crowds. In Budapest, skip unlicensed taxis and bars that do not post prices.
Bring swimsuits and flip-flops for the Budapest baths and Balaton. At the lake, watch the storm warning lights. When they flash, strong winds are coming, so head for shore. Pack mosquito repellent for evenings near the water.
Most shops in Vienna close on Sundays. Mention your honeymoon when booking hotels and dinners. Small hotels in particular often respond with a bottle of wine or a better view, though it is never guaranteed.
Make It Shorter or Longer
With nine days, drop Lake Balaton and keep three nights in each capital. Fly home from Budapest.
With 14 days, add two nights in Český Krumlov between Prague and Vienna. Private buses reach it from Prague in about three hours. Door-to-door shuttles continue to Vienna. The castle town on a loop of the Vltava empties out in the evening and rewards an overnight stay.
With 16 days, add the Wachau Valley for two nights after Vienna, a stretch of Danube vineyards and castle ruins about an hour west, then return to Vienna for the train to Budapest. Or add two nights in the Tokaj wine region, about two and a half to three hours from Budapest, for sweet Tokaji at the source.
Keep at least three nights in each capital whatever you change. Two nights leaves only one full day, which is not enough for a palace, a museum and a slow evening in the same city.
