Why Honeymoon in Cuenca
Cuenca has the charm of a European old town without the crowds. You can walk across the historic center in fifteen minutes, past churches, plazas and art galleries. Hardly anything is built above three or four stories, so the domes and church towers still own the skyline.
The pace is the main attraction. Locals stroll the riverbanks in the evening and many shops still close for a long lunch. Couples who have just finished a busy Galápagos week often say Cuenca is where the honeymoon finally slowed down.
It also rewards curiosity. The city is the center of Ecuador's toquilla straw hat industry. The so-called Panama hat originated in Ecuador and got its name from being shipped through Panama. You can watch artisans finish and block hats in workshops. Museums cover Cañari and Inca history and the archaeological park at Pumapungo shows the remains of an Inca city that once stood here.
And it is easy on the budget. Excellent dinners and charming hotels cost noticeably less than in Quito.
When to Go
Cuenca's climate is mild year-round. Days typically reach the upper 60s and nights fall into the 40s, so a sweater is useful in any month.
The drier and sunnier stretch runs from about June through September, with clear mornings and cool nights. This is the best time for hiking in Cajas, where fog and rain can roll in quickly the rest of the year.
February through May is the wettest period, with afternoon showers and occasional all-day rain. October through January brings a mix of sun and showers. Rain rarely lasts all day, so plan outdoor trips for the morning.
The city's festivals are worth timing a visit around. Cuenca's independence celebrations in early November fill the streets with concerts, crafts fairs and food stalls, though hotels book up early. The Pase del Niño Viajero procession on Christmas Eve is one of the largest in Ecuador, with children in costume and decorated cars and horses. Holy Week brings religious processions and traditional fanesca soup in every restaurant.
Where to Stay
Stay in the historic center. Everything you will want to see is within a walk and the evening atmosphere around the plazas is part of the appeal.
Cuenca's best hotels occupy restored nineteenth-century mansions with courtyards, painted ceilings and gardens. Mansión Alcázar, a boutique hotel in a grand colonial house with a garden restaurant, is one of the best known and a common honeymoon choice. Several other small hotels nearby offer a similar feel at lower prices, often with ten to twenty rooms and a breakfast patio.
For a quieter stay, look along the Tomebamba River, where hotels set on the steep bank called El Barranco have views over the water and the newer city beyond. You are still a five-minute walk from the center.
Couples who want more space can book a hacienda or country inn in the valleys outside town. They combine farm views with easy day trips to Cajas.
Prices are moderate by honeymoon standards. Even the top hotels in town generally cost less than their counterparts in Quito.
Romantic Things to Do
Start at the New Cathedral, the Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción, on Parque Calderón. Pay the small fee to climb to the roof for a close look at the blue-tiled domes and a view across the city.
Walk the flower market beside the Carmen de la Asunción church, then get a coffee and watch the plaza.
Take an evening walk along the Tomebamba. Paths and stone stairways run along the river below the old town and the colonial houses on El Barranco light up at night.
Visit a hat workshop to see how toquilla straw hats are finished and blocked. A good hat makes a lasting honeymoon souvenir and staff will fit it on the spot.
Take a taxi up to the Mirador de Turi at sunset for the whole city spread below you.
Spend a day in Cajas National Park, about 45 minutes away. Trails wind between lakes in high grassland dotted with polylepis trees.
Or drive about two hours to Ingapirca, Ecuador's largest Inca site, with a Temple of the Sun on a hill.
Getting There and Around
Cuenca's Mariscal Lamar Airport (CUE) is right on the edge of town, about ten minutes from the center by taxi. Flights from Quito take roughly 45 minutes to an hour. There are no nonstop flights from the US, so most couples fly in from Quito or connect through Guayaquil.
By road, Cuenca is about three and a half to four hours from Guayaquil over a pass through Cajas. The drive is scenic but winding and often foggy, so hire a driver rather than renting a car.
From Quito it is a long drive of about nine or ten hours, so flying is the sensible choice.
In town, walking is the best way to get around the center. Taxis are cheap and plentiful and ride apps work too. The city's modern tram, the tranvía, runs across town and past the historic center.
For Cajas and Ingapirca, book a private driver or a small tour. A guide adds a great deal on the Inca site, which has few signs.
Food and Drink
Cuenca's food leans on the highlands. Look for mote pillo, a breakfast dish of hominy scrambled with eggs, onions and herbs, often served with coffee and cheese.
The city is known for hornado, whole roast pork served with mote, potato patties and a sharp onion salad. Try it at the market stalls in the Mercado 10 de Agosto. Another regional specialty is cuy, or roast guinea pig. Locals eat it at celebrations and the stretch of restaurants along the road toward Turi is the place to try it if you are curious.
Cuenca's sweets deserve attention. Bakeries sell dulce de higos, figs in syrup with cheese and bread baked in wood-fired ovens.
The restaurant scene has become more creative in recent years, with chefs doing tasting menus that highlight Andean grains, potatoes and herbs. Dinner for two at a top place usually costs well under what you would pay at home.
In the evening, the bars along Calle Larga have craft beer and cocktails. Wine lists lean Chilean and Argentine.
Honeymoon Tips
Cuenca is lower than Quito but still at about 8,400 feet. If you are flying in straight from the Galápagos or the coast, take the first afternoon slowly and drink plenty of water.
Pack for cool evenings. Even in the dry season, temperatures can drop into the 40s at night and many older hotels have no central heating. Ask for a room with a fireplace or extra blankets.
If you plan to buy a hat, allow time. Quality varies widely and the finest weaves cost much more. A good shop will explain the grades and adjust the fit.
Many museums and some restaurants close on Mondays. Sundays are quiet in the center.
Cuenca has a large community of American retirees, which means English is more widely spoken than in most Ecuadorian cities. You will still get more smiles if you try some Spanish.
For a special dinner, book ahead on weekends.
