Why Honeymoon in Baños
Baños gives couples who like to move a good reason to leave Quito. The landscape is dramatic, with steep green walls, white ribbons of water and a volcano cone above the clouds. Unlike much of the highlands, the town sits at about 5,970 feet, so the air is comfortable and the altitude is gentle.
It is also unusually flexible. Spend one day on the waterfall route, another on a rafting trip and a third doing nothing at a spa hotel. Prices are modest by US standards, so a splurge on a room with a view does not wreck the budget.
The town has a relaxed, backpacker-meets-pilgrim energy. Ecuadorians come to pray at the Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Agua Santa and soak in the pools, while foreigners come for the adventure sports.
When to Go
Baños catches moisture rising from the Amazon basin, so rain is possible any month. The wettest stretch usually falls from about June through August, when clouds often hide the volcano. September through January tends to bring more sunshine and clearer views, making it the best window for cycling and photography. February through May is mixed, with showers that come and go.
Temperatures are pleasant year-round, with days in the low 70s Fahrenheit and nights in the mid-50s. The waterfalls run strongest after heavy rain, which is one upside of the wetter months.
Ecuadorian holidays, especially Carnaval and Easter week, bring big crowds from Quito and Guayaquil. Book ahead or avoid those dates if you want quiet hot springs.
Where to Stay
Location matters, since the town center is lively and the best views are up the hill.
- Hillside above town: Luna Runtun, a long-established resort on the slopes above Baños, has rooms with volcano and valley views, a spa and outdoor pools. The drive down takes about 20 minutes.
- Edge of town: spa hotels with gardens, private hot tubs and quiet grounds within a short taxi ride of restaurants.
- Town center: small hotels and guesthouses close to the basilica, restaurants and tour offices. Convenient but noisier at night.
Approximate rates for a good double run from about US$70 to US$250 a night, with suites and spa packages higher. Ask for a room facing the volcano and confirm whether the hotel's pools are heated.
Romantic Things to Do
Rent bicycles in town and ride the Ruta de las Cascadas, an easy, mostly downhill road of about 11 miles along the Pastaza gorge. Stop at the Manto de la Novia falls, ride a tarabita cable car across the canyon and finish at the Pailón del Diablo, where a trail and stairs let you climb behind the roaring water. Hire a truck to bring you back uphill.
Drive up to Casa del Árbol, a tree house that once served as a volcano lookout. Its giant swing launches you out over the valley with Tungurahua behind you.
Soak at the Termas de la Virgen in town, set below a waterfall, early in the morning or after dark. Book rafting on the Pastaza, canyoning in a jungle gorge or a couples massage on a rainy afternoon.
Getting There and Around
Fly into Quito's Mariscal Sucre International Airport (UIO), which has nonstops from Miami, Atlanta and Houston. The drive to Baños takes about 3.5 to 4 hours, mostly on the Pan-American Highway through the Avenue of the Volcanoes, with Cotopaxi visible on clear days. Most couples book a private driver or break the trip with a night near Cotopaxi.
Buses run frequently from Quito's southern terminal to Baños, taking around 3.5 hours. They are cheap but busy.
In Baños, the center is walkable. Taxis and pickup trucks take you to hotels on the hill, Casa del Árbol and the waterfall route. To continue to the Amazon, the road east to Puyo takes about 1.5 hours, with lodges beyond. Avoid driving the mountain roads at night.
Food and Drink
Baños has more variety than its size suggests, thanks to years of international visitors. Alongside Ecuadorian cafés you can eat wood-fired pizza, Belgian-style beer and decent curries.
For local flavor, look for trout from nearby fish farms, grilled with garlic or served as ceviche. Also try llapingachos, potato patties with fried egg and chorizo. Cuy, roasted guinea pig, is a highland specialty for the curious.
The town's sweet is melcocha, a sugarcane taffy that vendors pull by hand on wooden pegs in their doorways. Buy a bag to share and watch them work. Sugarcane juice, fresh and cold, is sold from stalls along the main streets.
On a cool evening, sip canelazo or a hot chocolate made with Ecuadorian cacao. Drink bottled or filtered water.
Honeymoon Tips
Tungurahua was highly active from 1999 until the mid-2010s and the town was evacuated for several weeks in 1999. It has been much quieter since, but it remains an active volcano. Learn your hotel's evacuation route and check Ecuador's geophysical institute updates before traveling.
Adventure tours vary a lot in quality. Choose operators recommended by your hotel, ask about guide training and check helmets and harnesses. Skip bridge jumping if equipment looks worn.
The US State Department rates Ecuador at Level 2. Baños is not among the flagged areas, but petty theft happens on buses and at busy pools. Keep valuables close.
Bring swimsuits, flip-flops, a rain jacket and a warm layer. Many thermal pools require swim caps, which are sold at the entrance.
