Why Honeymoon in Ashgabat
Let's be frank. Ashgabat is not a romantic city in the usual sense. There is no old town to wander, no café culture to linger in and no nightlife to speak of. Its appeal lies elsewhere.
The city is a spectacle. Monuments, fountains and theaters stretch along wide avenues, often with almost nobody around. The airport terminal is shaped like a falcon. A hilltop hotel looks like a giant sail. It is surreal, photogenic and quite unlike anything back home.
The surrounding sights are the real draw. The UNESCO-listed ruins of Nisa sit just outside the city, Kow Ata's steaming underground lake is a short drive west and the Karakum Desert stretches north toward Darvaza.
For couples who love unusual places and are combining Turkmenistan with Uzbekistan's Silk Road cities, a few days here add a chapter no one else on the trip will have.
When to Go
The best months are April, May and October, with September and November also good. Days are warm and sunny, evenings are cool and sightseeing on foot is comfortable.
Summer is fierce. The average July high is around 100°F and heat waves push well beyond that. Outdoor sightseeing in June, July and August is limited to early morning and evening. The desert trip to Darvaza becomes hot and dusty.
Winter is chilly but mostly dry. January highs average in the upper 40s, with occasional freezing nights and rare snow. The city is quiet and some outdoor sights feel bleak.
March brings Navruz, the spring new year, around March 21. Late April has a national day honoring the Akhal-Teke horse, often with shows and races. These can be festive times to visit, but check dates and arrangements with your agency well ahead.
Where to Stay
Ashgabat's hotels are mostly large, modern and somewhat formal, with marble lobbies and plenty of space. Many were built by the state and are lightly occupied, so service can be uneven, but rooms are usually comfortable.
The Yyldyz Hotel, a tall building shaped like a sail on high ground at the southern edge of the city, is one of the most striking options, with views across Ashgabat toward the Kopetdag mountains. Other upscale hotels line the main avenues in the center and the newer southern districts.
Your agency will often suggest hotels as part of the package, since accommodation must be booked and registered properly. Ask for a room on a high floor for night views of the lit city.
Outside Ashgabat, standards drop sharply. At Darvaza, you will sleep in tents or simple yurt camps arranged by your agency. Bring a good attitude and warm clothes for the desert night.
Romantic Things to Do
Take an evening drive through the city once the lights come on. Monuments, fountains and buildings change color. The empty avenues give the whole thing a dreamlike feel. Ask your guide to stop at the Independence Monument and the Alem Cultural and Entertainment Center with its huge enclosed Ferris wheel.
On a Sunday morning, head to the Altyn Asyr bazaar on the city's outskirts, often called Tolkuchka. It is a vast market for carpets, jewelry, fabric and camels.
Visit Nisa, about 18 km from the center, where mud-brick walls and ruins mark a capital of the Parthian empire. Late afternoon light makes it glow.
Drive west to Kow Ata, where steps lead down into a cave holding a warm mineral lake. Swimming in the steamy water is a strange and memorable experience.
Finally, spend a night in the Karakum near Darvaza, watching the stars over the dunes.
Getting There and Around
Ashgabat International Airport (ASB) is about 20 minutes from the center by car. From the US, connections typically go through Istanbul or Dubai. Your agency usually meets you at arrivals, which takes the stress out of a late-night landing.
In the city, your guide and driver handle transport, which is the norm for tourists. Taxis are cheap and the city is easy to get around by car, but Ashgabat is spread out and not designed for walking long distances.
Nisa is a short drive west of the center. Kow Ata is about 100 km west, roughly an hour and a half by road. The Darvaza crater is about 260 km north, roughly four hours each way. The last section needs a 4x4.
Domestic flights from Ashgabat reach Mary for Merv and Dashoguz near the Uzbek border, both useful for longer itineraries.
Food and Drink
Ashgabat's food is hearty and unfussy. Plov, rice cooked with lamb, carrots and onions, is the staple. Dograma, a soup of torn bread, meat and onions, is a national favorite. Fitchi, a meat pie baked in a clay oven, makes a good lunch.
Shashlik, grilled skewers of lamb or chicken, is served at restaurants all over the city. Fresh bread comes with every meal, as does green tea.
Turkmen melons are famous. In late summer and autumn, markets are piled with dozens of varieties. Try one at the Russian Bazaar in the city center, which is also good for dried fruit, spices and nuts.
Restaurants in large hotels serve international dishes. There are also some Turkish and Russian restaurants. Alcohol is available in hotels and many restaurants. The dining scene is limited, so ask your guide for current recommendations.
Honeymoon Tips
- Book with a licensed agency early. Arrangements can take several weeks and itineraries are fixed in advance.
- Bring enough clean US dollars in cash for the entire stay. Foreign cards often do not work.
- Download what you need before arriving. Internet access is heavily restricted.
- Ask before taking photos. Government buildings, uniforms and security sites are off limits.
- Pack layers for Darvaza. Desert nights are cold even after hot days.
- Treat Ashgabat as a short stop on a longer Silk Road trip through Uzbekistan, where hotels and dining are more relaxed.
- Lower your expectations for the Darvaza crater, which has been dimming as authorities capture the gas around it.
- Respect the rules. Your guide is responsible for you. Cooperation makes the trip smoother for everyone.