Why Honeymoon on the Banana Islands
After the noise of Freetown, the absence of engines here feels almost strange. Days settle into a simple rhythm: swim before breakfast, walk to the next cove, snorkel at midday, nap and watch the fishing boats head out at dusk.
The beaches on Dublin are among the most secluded in Sierra Leone, with clear water and forest running down to the sand. Underwater, old shipwrecks lie close to shore. One holds cannons scattered among coral and rock.
The islands also carry real history. Walking between the villages you pass the ruins of churches, a cemetery, an old slave dock and the remains of fortifications. For American couples interested in the Atlantic world, it is a moving place to spend a few days. It is also a place where nobody is selling you anything.
When to Go
Visit in the dry season, from December to April, when seas are calmer and crossings from Kent are easier. January to March is usually the best stretch, with sunny days in the upper 80s °F and warm water for snorkeling. The harmattan wind can bring haze in December and January, which softens the views but rarely spoils a beach day.
From May to November the rainy season brings heavy daily downpours and rougher water. Boat crossings can be uncomfortable or canceled, visibility for snorkeling drops and some lodging may close or offer reduced service.
The Christmas and New Year period is the busiest on the peninsula, so book well ahead if you plan to visit then. February is often quieter and still reliably dry.
Where to Stay
Accommodation on the islands is only on Dublin. The choice is small. The two established options are Daltons Banana Guest House and Banana Island Chalets. Both are simple, with basic rooms or chalets close to the water. Expect fans, mosquito nets and limited power rather than air conditioning.
Either guesthouse can arrange your boat from Kent, which is the easiest way to handle the crossing. Ask when booking about meals, drinking water, power hours and whether snorkel gear is available.
If you want more comfort, split your stay. Spend two or three nights on the islands and then move to a beach lodge on the mainland peninsula near Tokeh or River Number Two, where there are more choices and easier access to Freetown.
Romantic Things to Do
Snorkel the wrecks off the coast. The Dutch ship Diemermeer went down here in 1747. Other wrecks lie in shallow water. Banana Divers, based on the islands, runs dives and fishing trips.
Walk the stone causeway from Dublin to Ricketts in the late afternoon. Ricketts is the greener of the two islands, with forest paths and quiet views back toward the peninsula mountains.
Take a historical walk with a local guide to see the churches, the fort ruins, the cemetery and the old harbor. Guides explain how recaptive families came to live here.
Hire a boat to circle Mes-Meheux or to fish for your supper. Then eat it grilled on the beach under the stars, with the sound of the surf and almost nothing else.
Getting There and Around
Fly into Freetown International Airport at Lungi and take a water taxi across the estuary to Freetown. Spend the night in the city or on the peninsula, then drive south to Kent at the tip of the Freetown Peninsula, which usually takes around two hours depending on traffic and road conditions.
From Kent, local boats and lodge boats make the crossing to Dublin. Arrange this through your guesthouse rather than negotiating on the beach. Speedboats can also be chartered directly from Freetown at a higher price.
Once on the islands, you get around on foot or by boat. Vehicles are not allowed. Wear sturdy sandals for the paths, carry water and keep a dry bag for phones and cash during crossings.
Food and Drink
Fish and seafood dominate. Expect barracuda, snapper, grouper and lobster, usually grilled and served with rice, fried plantains or cassava and a fiery pepper sauce. Many meals are cooked to order, so tell your hosts in the morning what you would like.
Village cooks also prepare Sierra Leonean dishes such as cassava leaves and groundnut stew. Ask if you can watch or help, which is a good way to meet people.
Shops on the islands are tiny and stock only basics. Bring snacks, a supply of bottled water and anything special from Freetown or Kent. Cold drinks depend on generator power. Try fresh coconut water and, if offered, poyo, the local palm wine, which is mild and slightly sweet when fresh.
Honeymoon Tips
Greet the village chief or elders when you arrive. It is local custom and your guesthouse will help you do it. It opens doors and earns a lot of goodwill. Village life is conservative, so cover up away from the beach and keep affection low-key in public.
Cash is essential. There are no ATMs or card machines, so bring enough leones or US dollars for your stay, boat fares and tips.
Pack reef-safe sunscreen, repellent, a headlamp, a power bank and your own snorkel masks if you have good ones. Medical facilities are minimal, so carry a basic first aid kit and your malaria tablets. If you're pregnant or hoping to be soon, check CDC travel health notices for this destination.
Phone signal can be patchy. Treat the islands as a few days off the grid and let family know in advance. Plan the return crossing for the morning when seas tend to be calmer.