Why Honeymoon on Upolu
Upolu offers variety in a compact space. In one day you can swim in a sinkhole, picnic beside a waterfall, sample island cooking and watch a sunset from a beach with only a few other couples on it.
Accommodation suits different styles. Kid-free resorts on the south coast give you privacy, air conditioning and a spa. Beach fales let you experience how Samoans have lived by the sea for generations, with meals cooked by the family who runs them.
The island also has more culture than most beach destinations. Apia's churches, markets and the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum show a deeper history. In the villages, you will see brightly painted open meeting houses, carefully tended gardens and families gathered on Sunday. Samoans are famously welcoming and a little effort to follow local customs goes a long way.
When to Go
May through October is the dry season and the best time to visit. Expect sunshine most days, highs in the low to mid 80s Fahrenheit and comfortable nights. The lagoon is calm and clear for snorkeling. Trade winds can make the south coast breezy, which keeps fales cool.
Early September brings the Teuila Festival in Apia, a week of dancing, longboat races and food. Book ahead if your dates overlap.
November to April is the hot, humid wet season, with tropical downpours, occasional cyclones and slippery trails to waterfalls. It is quieter and cheaper. If you visit then, choose a resort with good indoor space and air conditioning, keep To Sua for a dry morning and allow extra time for travel between the coasts.
Where to Stay
The south coast is where most honeymooners stay. Seabreeze Resort near Aufaga is a kid-free boutique property with villas on a small private bay. Sinalei Reef Resort at Siumu has gardens running down to the lagoon. A string of smaller beachfront lodges fills the gaps between them, many with only a dozen or so rooms. Return to Paradise Resort at Lefaga sits on the beach made famous by a 1950s Gary Cooper film.
For a fale stay, head to Lalomanu on the eastern tip. Taufua Beach Fales is the best known of several family-run options, with simple huts, shared bathrooms and meals included.
Near the airport, the Sheraton Samoa Beach Resort at Mulifanua is handy before an early flight or the Savai'i ferry. Apia has hotels for a night in town, but most couples prefer the beach.
Romantic Things to Do
Arrive at To Sua Ocean Trench when it opens to have the pool nearly to yourselves. Climb down the ladder, swim in the clear seawater and stay for a picnic in the gardens above.
Drive the cross-island road through the rainforest and stop at Papase'ea Sliding Rocks, where you slide down smooth rock chutes into pools. Swim in the freshwater spring at Piula Cave Pool on the north coast.
In Apia, visit the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum at Vailima, then hike the steep trail up Mount Vaea to his grave, which looks out over the town.
Spend a day on Namua Island off the southeast coast, reached by a short boat ride. Book a fiafia night with fire knife dancing and a feast cooked in an umu.
Getting There and Around
Faleolo International Airport is on Upolu's northwest corner. It is about 40 minutes to Apia and up to an hour and a quarter to the south coast resorts, many of which offer transfers.
From the US, Fiji Airways flies weekly from Honolulu in just under six hours. Most other routes connect through Nadi on Fiji Airways or Auckland on Air New Zealand.
Renting a car gives you the most freedom. Traffic drives on the left and you need a temporary local license, which rental companies can arrange. Roads are generally good but narrow with dogs, pigs and children in villages, so drive slowly.
Buses leave Apia for most parts of the island and are a cheerful way to travel, but schedules are loose. Taxis are available for short trips; agree on the fare first. The Savai'i ferry leaves from Mulifanua wharf near the airport.
Food and Drink
Samoan food is hearty and built around coconut. Try oka, raw fish in coconut cream with lime and palusami, taro leaves baked with coconut cream until rich and soft. Sunday umu lunches include roast pork, taro, breadfruit and fish cooked over hot stones.
In Apia, the main market sells cheap meals, tropical fruit and koko Samoa, a strong local cocoa drink made from roasted beans. Cafes along the waterfront serve espresso and fresh juices. Vailima is the local beer.
On the south coast, most couples eat at their resort or fale, where meals are often included. Fale meals are home-style and generous. Resort restaurants offer more choice, including fresh seafood and Western dishes. A fiafia night is the best way to try many dishes in one sitting.
Honeymoon Tips
Carry small cash in tala for custom fees. Many beaches, waterfalls and pools charge a small custom fee because they belong to villages.
Book at least two nights in a beach fale for the experience, then move to a resort with private facilities. Bring earplugs, a sarong and a headlamp for fale nights.
Respect Sunday and sa. Avoid swimming near villages on Sundays and pause when the evening prayer bell rings.
Dress modestly away from the beach. Covering shoulders and knees in Apia and villages is appreciated and a lavalava is easy to buy at the market.
Watch the currents near reef gaps and wear reef shoes. Use repellent at dusk. Allow a buffer night before your international flight, since the weekly Honolulu service leaves little room for delays.
