At a glanceA loop from Paro, Bhutan's only international airport: three nights in the warm Punakha valley, two in the high glacial valley of Phobjikha, then three back in Paro to finish with the hike to Tiger's Nest. A guide and driver handle everything. It suits couples who want mountains, monasteries and quiet over beaches. Go from October to November or March to May.
Bhutan is a small Himalayan kingdom of forested valleys, white-walled fortresses and prayer flags snapping on every pass. Visitor numbers are kept low and almost everyone travels with a licensed guide and a private driver, which suits a honeymoon well: you are looked after from the moment you land. You also rarely share a view with a crowd.
This nine-day loop starts and ends at Paro International Airport (PBH). From the airport, you drive straight over Dochula pass to Punakha, a warmer, lower valley where the country's most beautiful dzong sits where two rivers meet. Three nights there give you an easy start.
Next, you climb to Phobjikha, a wide glacial valley where black-necked cranes spend the winter. Two nights in a lodge with a wood stove and a view over the marsh are the quiet heart of the trip.
The last three nights are in Paro. By then you are used to the altitude, which makes the hike to Tiger's Nest, the monastery clinging to a cliff above the valley, far more enjoyable.
The route
- PunakhaBhutan · 3 nights
- Phobjikha ValleyBhutan · 2 nights
- ParoBhutan · 3 nights
- Best months
- October to November and March to May
- Trip length
- 9 days
- Budget
- Luxury lodges commonly run about $1,000–2,500 or more a night for two; operators quote packages with guide, driver and car (approximate)
Day by day
Days 1–3: Punakha
Fly into Paro on Drukair or Bhutan Airlines from Bangkok, Delhi, Kathmandu or Singapore. On a clear day the approach between the mountains is thrilling for some and nerve-racking for others, so sit by a window and hold hands. Your guide and driver meet you at the airport. The drive to Punakha takes about four hours via Thimphu and Dochula pass, which is over 10,000 feet. Stop there for tea and the view of the high peaks if the sky is clear.
On day 2, visit Punakha Dzong, set where the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu rivers meet. In spring, jacarandas bloom around its walls. Seeing it lit gold in late afternoon light is the romantic moment of Punakha. Later, cross the long suspension bridge over the river.
On day 3, walk through rice fields to Chimi Lhakhang, a temple where couples come for a blessing, then hike up to the Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten. Finish with a gentle raft on the river or a riverside picnic.
Days 4–5: Phobjikha Valley
Drive to the Phobjikha valley on day 4, about three hours. The road climbs through forest to the Lawala pass, then drops into a wide, open valley at about 9,500 feet. Settle into your lodge, light the stove and watch the light change over the marsh.
If you visit from about late October to mid-February, the black-necked cranes are in residence. Walk to the viewing area at dusk, when they fly in to roost and call across the valley. That evening, with the cranes settling in the cold air, is the romantic moment of the whole trip. In mid-November, the Black-necked Crane Festival at Gangtey Monastery adds masked dances.
On day 5, attend morning prayers at Gangtey Monastery, then walk the Gangtey Nature Trail through pine forest and villages. It takes about two hours and is gentle. In the evening, book a traditional hot stone bath for two at your lodge or a farmhouse, followed by dinner by the fire.
Days 6–8: Paro
Drive back west to Paro on day 6, roughly five to six hours with a lunch stop in Thimphu. Use the afternoon in the capital to see the giant Buddha Dordenma statue above the valley and the weekend market if it is open. Arrive in Paro by evening.
On day 7, visit Rinpung Dzong in the morning and Kyichu Lhakhang, one of the oldest temples in Bhutan, where you can light butter lamps together. In the afternoon, drive up toward Chele La pass for views of the high peaks on a clear day. Dinner at a farmhouse is a warm way to end the day.
On day 8, hike to Tiger's Nest. The trail climbs steadily through pine forest for two to three hours to a viewpoint opposite the monastery, then down and up a long staircase to the gate. Reaching the cliff-hung temples together, with the valley far below, is the romantic moment of Paro. Make tonight your splurge dinner and soak tired legs in a hot stone bath.
Day 9: Fly Out from Paro
Flights out of Paro usually leave in the morning, when visibility is best. Your guide drives you to the airport, about 10 to 15 minutes from most Paro hotels.
Weather can delay flights in and out of Paro. Allow a buffer day in Bangkok, Delhi or Singapore before any connecting long-haul flight home. That spare day also makes a good place for a last splurge, such as a riverside hotel in Bangkok.
If you fly toward Kathmandu, sit on the left side of the plane for views of the high Himalaya on a clear morning. There are no nonstop flights from the US to Bhutan, so the usual route home connects through Bangkok, Delhi or Singapore.
Getting Between Stops
Travel in Bhutan is arranged through a licensed tour operator, who provides your guide, driver and private car and books your hotels. That makes logistics simple. You are met at the airport and driven between valleys.
Paro to Punakha takes about four hours via Thimphu and Dochula. Punakha to Phobjikha takes about three hours. Phobjikha back to Paro takes roughly five to six hours, so a lunch stop in Thimphu breaks it up.
The roads are paved but narrow and constantly winding. If either of you gets carsick, take tablets and ask your driver for regular stops. In midwinter, snow can slow the passes for a day, so keep a little flexibility in the plan. Within each valley, short walks connect temples, villages and viewpoints.
Where to Stay
Bhutan has some of the finest small lodges in Asia. Several brands run circuits across the valleys so you can stay with one company throughout.
In Punakha, Amankora Punakha is reached across a suspension bridge and through orange groves to a restored farmhouse. COMO Uma Punakha sits on a ridge above the Mo Chhu with a handful of rooms and villas. Six Senses Bhutan has a lodge among rice terraces.
In Phobjikha, Gangtey Lodge is a small luxury lodge in a traditional style near the monastery, known for its fireplaces and views. Amankora Gangtey and Six Senses Gangtey also look over the valley.
In Paro, COMO Uma Paro has hillside villas and a spa with hot stone baths. Amankora Paro sits in a pine forest above the valley and Zhiwa Ling Heritage is a characterful hotel in traditional style.
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When to Go
October and November are the classic months, with clear skies, crisp air and the best mountain views. The cranes arrive in Phobjikha from late October, the rice harvest turns Punakha gold and the Black-necked Crane Festival falls in mid-November. This is the busiest season, so book early.
March to May is lovely too. Rhododendrons bloom on the passes, jacarandas flower in Punakha and the Paro Tshechu, a masked dance festival, usually falls in spring. There are no cranes then.
December to February is dry, sunny and cold, with freezing nights in Phobjikha and Paro but quiet trails and sharp views. June to August is the monsoon, with rain, cloud and muddy trails, although the valleys are very green.
Budget and Booking
Bhutan is not a budget destination. Luxury lodges such as the Amankora, COMO and Six Senses properties commonly run about $1,000–2,500 or more a night for two, while comfortable mid-range hotels cost far less. Your tour operator quotes a package that includes your guide, driver, car and hotels, with meals often included. All figures are approximate.
Choose your operator first, then tell them which lodges you want. In crane season and spring festival weeks, the best rooms go months ahead.
Book your flights into Paro through your operator or the airlines directly, since seats are limited. Add tips for your guide and driver, spa treatments and any rafting at the end. Check exactly what the package includes before you compare quotes.
Make It Shorter or Longer
For seven days, drop Phobjikha. Spend three nights in Punakha and three in Paro, with a stop in Thimphu on the way.
With 11 or 12 days, add two nights in Thimphu for its markets, crafts school and weekend market, or continue east from Phobjikha to the Bumthang valleys, Bhutan's spiritual heartland. Bumthang adds long drives or a domestic flight, so give it at least three nights.
Many couples pair Bhutan with a beach afterward. Bangkok is a direct flight from Paro and makes an easy connection to Thailand's islands, while Singapore connects to Bali. A few days of sea and sun after the mountains balances the trip well.
Honeymoon Tips
At dzongs and temples, both of you need long sleeves and long trousers or a long skirt. Remove hats and, in some shrines, shoes. Your guide will tell you when photos are not allowed. Walk clockwise around chortens and prayer wheels.
Phobjikha sits at about 9,500 feet and the Tiger's Nest trail climbs above 10,000. Drink plenty of water, go slowly on the first days and avoid heavy drinking until you are used to the height. If either of you has heart or lung conditions, talk to a doctor before booking.
Pack warm layers in every season, since mornings and evenings are cold at altitude. Good walking shoes make the Tiger's Nest hike far easier. Entry and visa rules depend on your citizenship and can change at short notice, so check the official government website before you book.
FAQPlanning this trip
Do we need a tour operator to visit Bhutan?
In practice, yes. Nearly all visitors travel with a licensed guide arranged by a tour operator, who also provides a driver, a private car and hotel bookings. For a honeymoon this is a plus: you are met at the airport, driven between valleys and never have to work out the logistics yourselves.
How hard is the Tiger's Nest hike?
It is a steady climb of two to three hours up through pine forest to a viewpoint, then a long staircase down and up to the monastery gate. Most reasonably fit couples manage it at their own pace. Doing it at the end of the trip, once you are used to the altitude, helps a great deal.
When can we see the black-necked cranes?
From about late October to mid-February, when the cranes winter in the Phobjikha valley. November is especially good, with clear skies and the Black-necked Crane Festival at Gangtey Monastery in mid-November. Watch for them at dusk, when they fly in to roost on the marsh.
How do we get to Bhutan from the US?
There are no nonstop flights. Fly to Bangkok, Delhi, Kathmandu or Singapore, then connect on Drukair or Bhutan Airlines to Paro International Airport (PBH), the country's only international airport. Flights usually leave in the morning and can be delayed by weather, so allow a buffer day before your flight home.
Is Bhutan a good honeymoon for couples who are not hikers?
Yes. Most walks on this route are short and gentle, such as the stroll through rice fields to Chimi Lhakhang or the Gangtey Nature Trail. Tiger's Nest is the only real climb. Ponies can carry riders partway up the trail. The lodges, hot stone baths and long dinners do the rest.
