Why Honeymoon in Punakha
Punakha feels more relaxed than Bhutan's high valleys. The lower altitude means warmer days, easier walks and a landscape of green and gold fields that change color through the seasons.
The dzong is the most beautiful building in the country. You enter by a wooden cantilever bridge, climb steep wooden stairs and find courtyards full of monks, carved balconies and gilded statues. In spring, purple jacaranda trees bloom beside its walls.
There is also a romantic tradition here. Chimi Lhakhang, a small temple on a hill above rice fields, is dedicated to the saint Drukpa Kunley, known as the Divine Madman. Couples come from across Bhutan to receive fertility blessings. It is a lighthearted and touching place to visit as newlyweds.
The valley's lodges are among the most peaceful in Bhutan, with views of the river and terraces.
When to Go
Punakha is pleasant for much of the year. Its lower elevation keeps winter mild, which is why the central monastic body moves here from Thimphu each winter.
February through April is lovely. Days are warm, blossoms appear and the Punakha festival season, with its reenactment of historic battles and masked dances, usually falls in late winter or early spring. Jacarandas bloom around the dzong in spring.
October and November bring clear skies and the rice harvest. Fields turn gold and farmers work by hand, which makes for beautiful walks.
December and January are cool but sunny, with comfortable days and few visitors.
June through August is hot and humid, with monsoon rain. The valley is very green, but rivers run high and rafting may be limited. Clouds often hide the views from Dochula.
Where to Stay
Punakha has several excellent lodges, many set above the valley with views over rivers and fields.
Amankora Punakha is reached by crossing a suspension bridge over the river and walking or riding through orange groves to a restored farmhouse. It is one of the most romantic arrivals in Bhutan.
COMO Uma Punakha sits on a ridge above the Mo Chhu, with a small number of rooms and villas looking down the valley and a focus on spa treatments.
Six Senses Bhutan's Punakha lodge is set among rice terraces on a hillside, with modern rooms and wide views.
Mid-range hotels line the road along the river and in the nearby town of Khuruthang. Many offer garden rooms with valley views. As elsewhere in Bhutan, your tour operator will normally reserve accommodation as part of your itinerary.
Romantic Things to Do
Explore Punakha Dzong in the late afternoon, when the light warms the whitewashed walls. Your guide will explain the murals, the history of the royal wedding and the role of the monks who winter here.
Walk across the rice fields to Chimi Lhakhang for a blessing. Monks may tap you gently on the head with a wooden phallus and a bow and arrow, part of the fertility ritual.
Cross the long Punakha suspension bridge, draped in prayer flags and swaying slightly above the Pho Chhu.
Raft or kayak the Mo Chhu with a licensed outfitter. The river is gentle in most seasons and passes beneath the dzong.
Hike up to Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten, a temple built by a queen mother on a ridge above the valley.
Stop at Dochula pass on the way in or out to see the 108 chortens and, on clear days, the Himalaya.
Getting There and Around
Punakha is about three hours by road from Thimphu and about four hours from Paro, crossing Dochula pass at over 10,000 feet. The road is paved but winding. Your driver will stop at Dochula for views and tea.
Punakha has no airport. International visitors arrive at Paro and drive east, usually spending a night in Thimphu on the way.
The valley is spread out along the rivers, so you will travel by car with your guide and driver. Short walks through rice fields and villages connect many sights.
From Punakha, it is easy to continue to the Phobjikha valley, about three hours away, where black-necked cranes winter from about November to February. Combining the two makes a lovely loop before returning to Paro.
Rafting trips include transport to and from the put-in points.
Food and Drink
Punakha's warmer climate means more fresh produce. Look for oranges in winter, local vegetables and red rice from the valley's own fields.
The classic dishes are the same as elsewhere in Bhutan: ema datshi made with chilies and cheese, kewa datshi with potatoes and shamu datshi with mushrooms. Momos and noodles appear on most menus.
Farmhouses offer lunches near Chimi Lhakhang. These typically feature a spread of rice, vegetables, chili dishes and homemade ara.
Lodges serve a mix of Bhutanese and international dishes. Many arrange private picnics by the river or dinners in the fields, which are lovely for a honeymoon.
Tea is everywhere. Butter tea is salty and rich, while sweet milk tea is more familiar to American palates. Local beer and imported wine are available at most hotels.
Honeymoon Tips
- Spend two nights so you can visit the dzong, Chimi Lhakhang and the suspension bridge without rushing.
- Ask your guide to time your dzong visit for late afternoon light.
- Bring sunscreen and a hat, since Punakha is warmer and sunnier than Paro or Thimphu.
- Wear long sleeves and long trousers or skirts at the dzong and temples.
- Raft in the morning, when the river is calmer and the light is soft.
- Consider adding Phobjikha in winter to see the cranes.
- Pack insect repellent from spring through autumn, as the lower valley has more mosquitoes than the highlands.
