Bangkok, Chiang Mai and Koh Yao Noi in 12 Days

River temples, northern mountains and a quiet island facing the karsts

12 days3 stops
Original illustration
At a glance

Three nights on the Chao Phraya in Bangkok, three in Chiang Mai's temple-filled old city, then five slow nights on Koh Yao Noi, a rice-paddy island in Phang Nga Bay. Two short domestic flights do all the work. It suits first-timers who want Thailand's greatest hits without party beaches. Go from November to January, when the north is cool and clear and the Andaman Sea is calm.

This is the Thailand route we would hand to most couples on their first trip. It moves from the gilded temples of Bangkok to the cooler hills of the north, then ends with five nights on an island where the main traffic is a farmer on a scooter.

Bangkok comes first because almost every flight from the US lands there. Three nights on the river give you time to beat jet lag, see Wat Pho and Wat Arun and eat very well. A flight of a little over an hour takes you to Chiang Mai, where teak temples, cooking classes and an ethical elephant sanctuary fill three easy days.

Then you fly south to Phuket and skip it entirely. A short drive and a boat ride bring you to Koh Yao Noi, an island of rice paddies and fishing villages in Phang Nga Bay. Its east coast looks straight at the limestone towers of Krabi. Five nights there is the slow stretch of the trip, with kayaking, a private longtail day and a splurge dinner on the hill.

The route

  1. BangkokThailand · 3 nights
  2. Chiang MaiThailand · 3 nights
  3. Koh Yao NoiThailand · 5 nights
Best months
November to January, with February a good second choice
Trip length
12 days
Budget
About $300–900 a night for two in boutique to luxury hotels, with Six Senses pool villas well above that in peak weeks (approximate)

Day by day

Days 1–3: Bangkok

Land at Suvarnabhumi (BKK), usually late at night after a connection in Tokyo, Seoul, Taipei, Hong Kong, Doha or Dubai. A hotel car to the riverside takes about 45 to 75 minutes. Sleep in.

On day 2, reach Wat Pho before the tour buses to see the reclining Buddha, then take the cross-river ferry to Wat Arun. Rest through the hot afternoon with a Thai massage. Come back to Wat Arun at sunset, when the porcelain-studded spire glows above the river. Watching it from the water or a riverside terrace is the romantic moment of Bangkok.

Day 3 is for the Thonburi canals by long-tail boat in the morning, a lazy lunch and an evening walk down Yaowarat Road in Chinatown. Graze from stall to stall rather than booking a restaurant. If one of you would rather shop than wander, the malls around Siam are a short skytrain ride from the river piers. Both of you need covered shoulders and knees for the temples, so pack light trousers or a long skirt and a shirt with sleeves.

Days 4–6: Chiang Mai

Fly from Bangkok to Chiang Mai (CNX) on day 4. Flights take a little over an hour and run many times a day from both Suvarnabhumi and Don Mueang, so check which airport your ticket uses. The airport is about 15 minutes from the old city. Spend the afternoon cycling the lanes inside the moat between small temples.

On day 5, book a full day at an observation-only elephant sanctuary, where you watch the animals bathe and forage rather than ride them. In the evening, take a cooking class and make a Northern Thai feast together. If it falls on a Sunday, finish at the Walking Street market.

Day 6 belongs to Doi Suthep, the gold-spired temple on the mountain above town. Go early, when the air is cool and the city spreads out below in soft light. Standing at the top as the monks chant is the romantic moment of the north. Spend the afternoon by the pool or in Nimmanhaemin's cafes. In November to January, bring a light layer for evenings, which can dip into the 50s Fahrenheit.

Days 7–11: Koh Yao Noi

Fly from Chiang Mai to Phuket (HKT) on day 7, roughly two hours. Drive about 30 minutes to Bang Rong Pier and take a boat of 30 to 60 minutes to Koh Yao Noi. A private speedboat arranged by your resort makes the crossing easy with luggage.

Day 8 is for doing nothing. Swim, read and watch the karsts change color across the bay. On day 9, kayak with a guide into the hongs, hidden lagoons inside the limestone islands, reached through low cave entrances at the right tide. Go at dawn, before the Phuket speedboats arrive.

On day 10, charter a private longtail through Phang Nga Bay with a beach picnic and swims off the boat. Make that night your splurge: dinner with a view at Six Senses Yao Noi, or a pool villa for the night if you are staying elsewhere. Watching the sun rise behind the Krabi karsts from your terrace the next morning is the romantic moment of the island.

Keep day 11 empty. Cycle the ring road past rice paddies, eat grilled fish in a village restaurant and book a couples massage.

Day 12: Home from Phuket

Take a morning boat back to Bang Rong Pier and drive about 30 minutes to Phuket International Airport (HKT). There are no nonstop flights to the US, so you will connect through an Asian or Middle Eastern hub. Some couples prefer to fly Phuket to Bangkok and connect there, which gives more choice of long-haul flights. If you do, check that your onward ticket leaves from Suvarnabhumi rather than Don Mueang.

Allow extra time if your flight leaves early. Boats run through the day, but the last public departures are in the late afternoon. A private transfer removes any worry. If your flight leaves in the evening, ask for a late checkout and spend the morning in the water. Most resorts will hold bags and lend you a room for a shower before you go.

The long trip home is easier if you book a seat with legroom on the long leg and keep a change of clothes in your carry-on. Pack any Thai silk or celadon from Chiang Mai in your checked bag.

Getting Between Stops

Two domestic flights do the heavy lifting. Bangkok to Chiang Mai takes a little over an hour, with flights many times a day. Chiang Mai to Phuket takes roughly two hours, with fewer daily options, so book it early. Thai budget airlines often use Don Mueang (DMK) in Bangkok while long-haul flights use Suvarnabhumi (BKK). Read your tickets carefully.

In Bangkok, use the BTS skytrain, the river boats and Grab for short hops. Your hotel's shuttle boat to the skytrain pier saves a lot of time in traffic. In Chiang Mai, Grab, Bolt and red songthaew trucks cover the city. Hire a car with a driver for anything in the hills.

From Phuket airport to Koh Yao Noi, a car to Bang Rong Pier takes about 30 minutes, then a boat takes 30 to 60 minutes. On the island, tuk-tuks meet the boats and resorts arrange rides.

Where to Stay

In Bangkok, stay on the river. The Mandarin Oriental is the classic, with its Authors' Lounge afternoon tea. The Peninsula sits on the Thonburi bank. Capella Bangkok and the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok at Chao Phraya River are newer and quieter.

In Chiang Mai, 137 Pillars House, a restored 19th-century teak home east of the old city, is a long-time favorite with couples. Anantara Chiang Mai Resort sits on the Ping River close to the Night Bazaar. Small heritage hotels inside the moat put temples on your doorstep at lower prices.

On Koh Yao Noi, Six Senses Yao Noi is the big honeymoon name, with pool villas on a hillside above the bay. Cape Kudu Hotel is a stylish, lower-key option near the main pier. The Paradise Koh Yao sits on its own private beach at the northern end.

When to Go

November to January is the sweet spot for the whole route. Bangkok is less humid, Chiang Mai has clear skies and cool nights and the Andaman Sea around Koh Yao Noi is calm. This is peak season, so book early, especially around Christmas, New Year and Chinese New Year.

February is still good on the island and in Bangkok, but smoke from seasonal burning can begin to haze the north. From about late February to April, air quality in Chiang Mai is often poor, so skip the north then or swap it for more beach time.

From May to October the rains arrive. Bangkok storms come in afternoon bursts. Chiang Mai turns green and cheaper. Koh Yao Noi is sheltered compared with Phuket's open coast and boats keep running, though some tours cancel on rough days and rates drop noticeably.

Budget and Booking

Plan on roughly $300–900 a night for two across good boutique and luxury hotels. Bangkok's river hotels and Six Senses Yao Noi sit at the top of the range and climb higher over the holidays. Chiang Mai is usually the best value of the three. All figures are approximate.

Book the Koh Yao Noi resort first, since the best villas sell out in peak season. Then book the Chiang Mai to Phuket flight, which has the fewest options. Reserve the elephant sanctuary and cooking class a few weeks ahead.

Other costs are modest by US standards: Grab rides, temple entry, a private longtail charter, guides for kayaking and the private speedboat transfer to the island. Street food in Bangkok and Chiang Mai is excellent and cheap, which balances a few big dinners.

Make It Shorter or Longer

For nine or ten days, cut Chiang Mai and fly from Bangkok straight to Phuket for the island. Or keep two nights in each city and four on the island.

With two weeks, add two nights in Pai, about three hours from Chiang Mai on a winding mountain road, for hot springs and sunset over Pai Canyon. Alternatively, add Khao Sok on the way south, where you can sleep in a floating bungalow on Cheow Lan Lake. It sits about three hours by road from Phuket, so arrange a private car to the pier.

Couples who want two beaches can split the island time. Spend three nights on Koh Yao Noi and three on Koh Lanta, which has long sunset beaches and is linked by boat in the dry season.

Honeymoon Tips

Dress for temples with covered shoulders and knees for both of you. Carry a light scarf for the heat. Remove shoes before entering temple halls.

Choose an elephant sanctuary that does not offer rides or bathing shows that put people in the water with the animals. Observation-only visits are kinder and still very moving.

Scooter accidents are common in Thailand and travel insurance may not cover you without the right license. On Koh Yao Noi, bicycles and tuk-tuks are easier. The ring road has one big hill.

Dengue is present in Thailand. Use repellent at dawn and dusk. If you're pregnant or hoping to be soon, check CDC travel health notices before booking. Bangkok tuk-tuks are fun once, so agree on the fare before you climb in.

FAQ

Planning this trip

Is 12 days enough for a Thailand honeymoon?

Yes. Twelve days covers Bangkok, the north and one island without rushing. The key is limiting hotel changes to three and taking two short flights instead of long drives. You get culture in the first week and five slow nights on the beach at the end, which is what most couples remember.

Why Koh Yao Noi instead of Phuket or Koh Samui?

Koh Yao Noi is a short boat ride from Phuket airport but feels decades removed from it. There are rice paddies, fishing villages and a handful of good resorts facing the limestone karsts of Phang Nga Bay. You get the views without the crowds. Koh Samui sits in the Gulf, which has different seasons, so it does not fit as neatly with the north in winter.

Can we fly from Chiang Mai to Phuket directly?

Yes. Direct flights between Chiang Mai (CNX) and Phuket (HKT) take roughly two hours, though there are fewer of them than flights to Bangkok. Book this leg early. If times do not work, connect through Bangkok, checking whether the flight uses Suvarnabhumi or Don Mueang.

What is the best month for this itinerary?

December is the strongest single month, with cool, clear weather in Chiang Mai and calm water in Phang Nga Bay. November and January are nearly as good. Avoid March and April for this route, when smoke and haze often settle over the north and the heat peaks in Bangkok.

Where should we splurge on this trip?

Spend the most on Koh Yao Noi, where you will be in your room the most. A pool villa at Six Senses Yao Noi or a Cape Kudu room facing the bay pays off over five nights. In Bangkok, a river-view room at the Mandarin Oriental or the Peninsula is worth it for the evening light on the water.

Stops on this route

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