Why Honeymoon in Rome
Few cities pack this much beauty into a walkable center. You can stroll from the Spanish Steps to the Trevi Fountain to the Pantheon in about twenty minutes, stopping for espresso on the way. Every era of Western history left something behind here. The Romans live comfortably among it.
Rome also suits couples who want variety without moving hotels. Mornings can be ambitious, with ancient ruins or Renaissance art. Afternoons are for resting and wandering. Evenings belong to food, which is the real reason many couples come back. The flights help too. Fiumicino has more nonstop service from the United States than any other Italian airport, so Rome works as the first or last stop of almost any Italy itinerary.
When to Go
April, May, late September and October are the sweet spots. Days run warm, evenings are pleasant for outdoor dinners and the light turns the ochre buildings gold. Expect crowds at the big sights in all of these months, especially around Easter, which brings huge numbers of pilgrims.
July and August are hot, often well above 90°F. Much of the city slows down in mid-August when Romans leave for the coast. If summer is your only window, plan sightseeing before 11 a.m. and after 6 p.m. Winter is mild compared with the northern US. November through February brings some rain but also thinner crowds, cheaper rooms and the Christmas lights along Via del Corso. It is a good time for museums and long lunches.
Where to Stay
Location matters more than room size in Rome. Staying inside the historic center lets you walk home after dinner, which is half the pleasure.
The area around Piazza Navona and the Pantheon puts you in the middle of everything, with tiny streets that glow at night. Monti, near the Colosseum, has a younger, artsy feel with wine bars and vintage shops. Trastevere across the river is the most atmospheric for evenings but can be noisy on weekends. Couples wanting grand old-school luxury often choose the area near the Spanish Steps, where Hotel Hassler Roma sits at the top of the steps and Hotel de Russie has a terraced garden off Piazza del Popolo. Hotel Eden, a short walk from the Villa Borghese park, is known for its rooftop views. Ask for a room facing a courtyard if you are light sleepers.
Romantic Things to Do
Book the first Vatican Museums slot of the day and head straight for the Sistine Chapel before the tour groups. Reserve timed Colosseum tickets in advance too, since they are tied to your names. The Borghese Gallery only admits visitors by reservation, which keeps its Bernini sculptures pleasantly uncrowded.
For romance without a ticket, walk up to the Giardino degli Aranci on the Aventine Hill at sunset, then look through the keyhole of the Knights of Malta gate for a framed view of St. Peter's dome. On Sundays part of the Appian Way closes to cars. Renting bikes to ride past ancient tombs and umbrella pines is a lovely half day. End an evening at the Trevi Fountain late at night, when the crowds have drained away.
Getting There and Around
Fiumicino (FCO) has nonstop flights from many US cities, with some routes running only in summer. Flight time from the East Coast is roughly eight to nine hours. The Leonardo Express train reaches Termini station in about half an hour. Licensed white taxis charge a fixed fare to the historic center, which is easier with luggage.
Once in town, walk. The center is compact and many streets are closed to traffic. Metro lines skip much of the old center, though buses and taxis fill the gaps. Do not rent a car for Rome. Restricted traffic zones carry steep fines that arrive months later. High-speed trains from Termini reach Florence in about 90 minutes and Naples in about 70.
Food and Drink
Roman cooking is simple and proud of it. Learn the four classic pastas: cacio e pepe, carbonara, amatriciana and gricia. Order them in a trattoria where the menu is short and handwritten. In the old Jewish Ghetto, try carciofi alla giudia, artichokes fried until they open like flowers. Supplì, fried rice balls with a molten mozzarella center, make a good snack between sights.
Breakfast is a cappuccino and a maritozzo, a soft bun split and filled with whipped cream. Locals drink cappuccino only in the morning, so switch to espresso after lunch. Aperitivo starts around 6:30, with a spritz and a few nibbles. Testaccio is the place for a food walk, with its covered market and old-school trattorias. Book dinners at popular spots a few days ahead. Plan to eat no earlier than 8 p.m.
Honeymoon Tips
Visitors now pay a small charge, about €2, to step down to the basin of the Trevi Fountain during the daytime. The Pantheon now sells tickets too, at a modest price. Both are easy to pay but surprise people who expected free admission.
Dress for churches: covered shoulders and knees are required at St. Peter's and enforced at the door. A light scarf solves it. Carry a refillable bottle, since Rome's public fountains, the nasoni, run with cold drinkable water.
Pickpockets work crowded buses and the Termini area, so keep phones out of back pockets. Many restaurants close one day a week and some close for a few weeks in August, so check before crossing town. Finally, build an empty afternoon into every day. Rome is tiring. The couples who rest are the ones still out walking at midnight.
