Rome, Tuscany and the Amalfi Coast in 12 Days

The classic Italy honeymoon, paced for two: city, countryside, then the sea

12 days3 stops
Original illustration
At a glance

Start with three nights in Rome, take the fast train north to a Tuscan farmhouse for three nights of wine country, then finish with five unhurried nights on the Amalfi Coast. It suits first-time visitors who want the big three without living out of a suitcase. Go from late April to June or in September and early October, when evenings are warm and the sea is swimmable.

Twelve days is the right length for the honeymoon most couples picture when they say Italy: Rome, the Tuscan hills and the Amalfi Coast. The trick is to stop trying to see everything. This route uses only three hotels, puts the long travel days at the edges and saves the biggest block of time for the coast, where the point is to do very little together.

Rome comes first because every nonstop from the US lands there and jet lag is easier to walk off in a city. A high-speed train takes you north to Tuscany, where a car and a farmhouse base give you three days of hill towns, Brunello and long lunches. Then you ride the rails south to Salerno or Naples for five nights above the sea, with one boat day to Capri and plenty of empty afternoons by the pool.

Florence is reachable as a day trip from the Tuscan base if one of you cannot leave Italy without seeing the Duomo. Most couples find the countryside more romantic than another city.

The route

  1. RomeItaly · 3 nights
  2. TuscanyItaly · 3 nights
  3. Amalfi CoastItaly · 5 nights
Best months
Late April to June and September to early October
Trip length
12 days
Budget
About $450–1,000 a night for two in mid-range to luxury hotels, with splurge nights on the Amalfi Coast well above that (approximate)

Day by day

Days 1–3: Rome

Land at Rome Fiumicino (FCO) in the morning. The Leonardo Express reaches Termini in about half an hour, or a white taxi charges a fixed fare to the historic center in roughly 45 minutes. Drop your bags, sleep for two hours and then walk. A slow first evening in Trastevere, with cacio e pepe and a carafe of house white, is all day one needs.

On day 2, take the first Vatican Museums slot and walk straight to the Sistine Chapel before the tour groups. Rest through the hot afternoon. At golden hour, climb the Aventine to the Orange Garden, then queue for a few minutes at the Knights of Malta gate to see St. Peter's framed in the keyhole. That is the romantic moment of the Rome leg.

Day 3 belongs to ancient Rome. Book timed Colosseum tickets in your names, then drift into Monti for lunch. One of you might want the Borghese Gallery while the other would rather do a pasta-making class, so split for an afternoon and meet for a rooftop spritz near the Spanish Steps. Cover shoulders and knees for both of you in churches; a light scarf or a pair of thin trousers solves it.

Days 4–6: Tuscany

Take a mid-morning Frecciarossa or Italo train from Roma Termini to Florence, about an hour and a half. Pick up a rental car near Santa Maria Novella station and drive an hour to an hour and a half into the countryside. The Val d'Orcia and the hills south of Siena work best for this route. Check in, find the pool and let the afternoon go.

Day 5 is the drive everyone comes for. Loop through Pienza for pecorino, Montalcino for a booked Brunello tasting at a family cellar and San Quirico d'Orcia for the cypress views. End with a soak at Bagno Vignoni or, if you have the energy, the cascading pools at Saturnia. If both of you want to taste seriously, hire a driver for the day, since Italy's drink-driving limits are strict.

On day 6, choose between Siena and Florence. Siena is closer and gentler: arrive late in the afternoon and sit in the Piazza del Campo as the Torre del Mangia catches the last light. Couples set on Florence can drive to a station and take the train in. Either way, make dinner back at the farmhouse the long one.

Days 7–9: Amalfi Coast arrival and slow days

Day 7 is the longest travel day, so start early. Drop the car in Florence and take a high-speed train to Salerno, roughly three and a half hours, or to Naples, about three hours. From Salerno a private driver reaches Amalfi in under an hour; from Naples, Positano is about an hour and a half by car, depending on traffic. Book the transfer through your hotel. Arrive, shower and eat on the terrace.

Days 8 and 9 are the slow stretch of the trip. You have earned it. Swim off your hotel's rocks or beach club in the morning, nap after lunch and walk into town for an aperitivo. If one of you gets restless, Ravello is a short drive up from Amalfi: walk the gardens of Villa Cimbrone to the Terrace of Infinity, where marble busts face nothing but sea and sky. In summer the Ravello Festival stages concerts at Villa Rufolo. Pack for stairs; every town here is vertical.

Days 10–12: Capri by boat, a splurge night and home

Book day 10 as your boat day well ahead through the hotel. A private gozzo or a speedboat runs past sea caves and coves, stops for swims in clear water and crosses to Capri for lunch and a close look at the Faraglioni rocks. Sail home in the late afternoon. Bring reef-friendly sunscreen and a layer, since the wind on the water is stronger than it looks from shore.

Make day 11 the splurge. Early risers can hike the Path of the Gods above Positano before the heat, then spend the afternoon at the pool. Save the big dinner for tonight: a candlelit table at Le Sirenuse in Positano or a terrace at Caruso in Ravello, both booked when you reserve the room. This is the romantic moment of the coast, with the lights of the towns coming on below you.

On day 12, a car takes you to Naples International (NAP) in about an hour and a half for a connecting flight home. If you would rather fly nonstop, take the train from Naples to Rome (a little over an hour) and continue to Fiumicino.

Getting Between Stops

Trains do the heavy lifting on this route. Roma Termini to Florence takes about an hour and a half on high-speed services. Florence to Salerno takes about three and a half hours and Florence to Naples about three. Book those tickets once you have dates, since the cheapest fares go early. Seats are assigned. There is space for a suitcase each at the end of the carriage.

Rent a car only for Tuscany. Pick it up in Florence and return it there, which avoids one-way fees. Watch for ZTL limited-traffic zones in every historic center; cameras fine you automatically if you drive in, so park outside the walls and walk.

On the Amalfi Coast, do not drive. The coast road is narrow, parking is scarce and summer traffic rules restrict some cars. Use hotel transfers, the SITA bus for short hops and ferries between Amalfi, Positano and Capri.

Where to Stay

In Rome, sleep inside the historic center so you can walk home after dinner. The splurge is Hotel de Russie, a Rocco Forte hotel on Via del Babuino between Piazza del Popolo and the Spanish Steps, with a terraced Secret Garden. Smaller boutique hotels around Piazza Navona and Monti cost less.

In Tuscany, choose a countryside base rather than a town. Borgo Santo Pietro, a medieval villa on a roughly 300-acre organic farm near Chiusdino, is our honeymoon pick. A family-run agriturismo in the Val d'Orcia costs far less and puts you closer to Pienza and Montalcino.

On the Amalfi Coast, your town shapes the trip. Le Sirenuse is the Positano classic. Hotel Santa Caterina, just outside Amalfi, has cliff elevators down to its own beach club. Caruso, A Belmond Hotel, sits high in Ravello. Monastero Santa Rosa is a 20-room former convent at Conca dei Marini.

When to Go

Late April, May, June and September are the sweet spots. Rome is warm without being punishing, the Tuscan hills are green or golden and the sea on the Amalfi Coast is swimmable from late May. Early October brings mellow light, the grape harvest in Tuscany and still-warm water, though a few coast hotels start to close by the end of the month.

July and August are peak season. Rome often runs well above 90°F, Tuscany is hot and dusty and the Amalfi Coast is at its busiest and most expensive. It still works if you plan sightseeing early and late and nap through the middle of the day.

Between November and March, many Amalfi Coast hotels close entirely. If those are your months, swap the coast for a longer stay in Rome and Tuscany, or look at Sicily instead.

Budget and Booking

Plan on roughly $450–1,000 a night for two in good mid-range to luxury hotels on this route, with the coast at the top of that range and the big-name Amalfi hotels well above it. These are approximate figures and they rise sharply in peak summer.

Book the Amalfi Coast first. The best hotels have limited rooms and often sell out for May through September six to nine months ahead. Reserve your boat day and any famous terrace dinners when you book the room. Rome and Tuscany are easier, though small farmhouse hotels also fill early for June and September.

Other costs to budget: high-speed train tickets, a rental car for three days, private transfers on the coast and timed tickets for the Vatican Museums, the Colosseum and the Borghese Gallery. Expect a nightly city tourist tax at each hotel, usually paid at checkout.

Make It Shorter or Longer

For a 9 or 10 day trip, keep Rome at three nights and the Amalfi Coast at four or five, then drop Tuscany. You lose the wine country but gain a calmer pace and one fewer travel day. The train from Rome to Salerno or Naples is fast, so the route stays easy.

With two weeks, add a fourth night in Tuscany and a sixth on the coast. Some couples split the coast between two hotels, for example three nights in Positano and three in Ravello, which gives you two very different views. Another option is two nights on Capri itself, which empties out once the day boats leave.

With 16 days, add Venice at the start on a separate open-jaw ticket. Fly into Venice, take the train to Florence, then follow this route south and fly home from Naples or Rome.

Honeymoon Tips

Pack light. You will carry bags onto trains and up the stairs of every Amalfi Coast town, so a medium suitcase each works better than one huge one. Comfortable sandals matter more than heels on cobblestones and steps.

Book the first slot at the Vatican Museums and Colosseum. Time Tuscan towns like Siena for early morning or late afternoon, when tour buses are gone. Most wineries need appointments; ask your farmhouse hotel to set up two tastings a day at most.

The sea on this coast is often deep right off the rocks, so swim where hotel staff or lifeguards are around and keep an eye on the wind on boat days. Carry a refillable bottle in Rome, where the public fountains run with drinkable water. Pickpockets work the busiest metro lines and buses, so keep phones in a front pocket.

FAQ

Planning this trip

Is 12 days enough for Rome, Tuscany and the Amalfi Coast?

Yes, if you limit yourselves to three hotels. Three nights in Rome, three in Tuscany and five on the Amalfi Coast gives each stop at least two full days. The only long travel day is the move from Tuscany to the coast, which takes most of a day by car, train and transfer. Trying to add Florence as a separate stop is what makes most 12 day plans feel rushed.

Should we stay in Florence instead of the Tuscan countryside?

For a honeymoon, the countryside usually wins. A farmhouse or villa gives you a pool, quiet nights and easy drives to Pienza, Montalcino and Siena. Florence is crowded in high season and best seen in a long day. If one of you is passionate about Renaissance art, consider one night in Florence on the way in, then drive to the farm the next morning.

Do we need a car for this itinerary?

Only in Tuscany. Rome is best on foot, trains link the cities quickly and a car on the Amalfi Coast is more trouble than help. Rent one in Florence for the Tuscan days and return it there before the train south. If you would rather not drive at all, many Tuscan hotels can arrange a driver for winery days.

Which Amalfi Coast town is best for a honeymoon?

Positano is the most glamorous, with boutiques, beach clubs and the classic stacked view. Amalfi is the most practical, with ferry and bus connections in every direction. Ravello sits high above the sea and is the quietest at night, with gardens and concerts. Couples who want to swim without crowds often like the hotels between Amalfi and Positano.

Can we fly into Rome and out of Naples?

Yes. It saves time. Book an open-jaw ticket into Rome Fiumicino (FCO) and home from Naples International (NAP), usually with one connection through a European hub. If you prefer a nonstop home, take the train from Naples back to Rome on the last morning (a little over an hour) and fly from Fiumicino.

Stops on this route

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