Honeymoon in Ghana

Busua

A crescent of sand, beginner waves and old forts on Ghana's quiet western coast

GhanaBest: Jan–DecTakoradi Airport
Original illustration
The short answer

Busua is the place to exhale on a Ghana honeymoon: a swimmable bay with gentle beginner surf, fishing canoes at dawn and coastal paths to old forts at Dixcove and Butre. Come November through March for sun and calmer seas. It suits easygoing couples happy with simple lodges, occasional power cuts and a slow pace. Stays are guesthouses and eco-lodges, with Lou Moon Lodge near Axim as the splurge. Plan four nights or more. Don't miss a couples surf lesson in Busua Bay, then grilled lobster on the sand.

Best for
  • Couples learning to surf together
  • Travelers happy with simple eco-lodges
  • Pairs ending a Ghana trip slowly
Maybe skip it if
  • You want five-star resort polish
  • You need reliable power and Wi-Fi

Busua is a fishing village on a long curve of sand about twenty miles west of Takoradi, in Ghana's Western Region. Wealthy Ghanaians used it as a seaside retreat in the mid-twentieth century. It still feels pleasantly small: a beach, a main street of guesthouses and restaurants and a village where fishermen launch their canoes at dawn.

For honeymooners, Busua and the coastline around it are the most relaxing part of Ghana. The waves in the bay are mellow enough for beginners to learn to surf. Coastal paths lead over headlands to neighboring villages with old European forts. A little farther along, small eco-lodges hide in coves backed by forest, with nothing but the ocean in front of your door.

This is not polished resort country. Lodges are simple, power cuts happen and the pace is slow. That is exactly the point for couples who want to unwind after time in Accra and the castles at Cape Coast, with fresh lobster, cold beer and long walks on near-empty beaches.

Best time to visit Busua

Peak months: January, February, March, November, December

BestGood / shoulderLow season (rain, heat, storms or closures)
Best months
November to March
Shoulder
April and July to October
Getting there
Takoradi Airport (TKD), about 45 minutes by car; Accra (ACC) is 5 to 6 hours by road
Country
Ghana
From the US
Delta flies nonstop to Accra from New York JFK and United from Washington Dulles, roughly 10 to 11 hours eastbound. Connections through Europe or Casablanca are the usual alternative from other US cities.
Don’t miss

Busua at a glance

  • Take a couples surf lesson in the bay
  • Walk the coastal path to Dixcove fort
  • Paddle the mangrove river at Butre
  • Stand at Cape Three Points lighthouse
  • Visit the stilt village of Nzulezo

Best months: January, February, March, November, December

Why Honeymoon in Busua

Busua offers a rare combination in West Africa: a safe, swimmable beach, a lively but low-key village and enough to do that you never feel bored. The bay has a relatively gentle surf break that has turned Busua into the center of Ghana's small surf scene and several schools offer lessons for absolute beginners. Learning to stand up on a board together is a good honeymoon memory.

The area also has a touch of adventure. You can walk along the coast to Dixcove, with its old British fort, or over the hill to Butre, a village with a Dutch fort on the hilltop and a river you can paddle through mangroves. Farther west, Cape Three Points marks the southernmost tip of Ghana.

Above all, Busua is a place to rest. Days start with fresh fruit and coffee, drift through swims and naps and end with grilled fish by the sea. It is the ideal final stop after the castles of Cape Coast.

When to Go

November through March is the best time for a beach stay. Days are sunny and hot, rain is rare and the sea is usually calmer. This is high season, so lodges fill up around Christmas and New Year.

The harmattan, from roughly December through February, can bring a dusty haze that dims sunsets but keeps humidity down.

The Western Region is one of the wettest parts of Ghana. The main rainy season runs from about April through June, with heavy rain that can last for hours, rough seas and muddy roads. A shorter rainy period arrives around September and October. July and August are usually cloudy and relatively dry, with bigger swells that suit more experienced surfers.

If surfing is a priority, the larger swells generally come in the middle of the year, while the calmer winter months are better for beginners and swimmers.

Whatever the month, mornings are often the most pleasant time of day before the heat builds.

Where to Stay

In Busua itself, guesthouses and small hotels line the beach and the main street. The Busua Beach Resort is the largest, with rooms facing the sand, a pool and a restaurant. Smaller guesthouses and lodges have more character and often cluster around the surf schools and beachfront bars.

For more seclusion, look east toward Butre, where a few small lodges sit on the hillside above the beach and river, or west toward Akwidaa and Cape Three Points, where eco-lodges set back from long, empty beaches offer bungalows among the palms.

Farther west, near Axim, Lou Moon Lodge sits in a sheltered cove framed by rocks and forest, with rooms just steps from the water. It is a popular splurge for couples on the western coast.

Accommodation along this coast is generally simple and characterful rather than luxurious. Check for air conditioning or fans, hot water, mosquito nets and backup power and book early for the dry season.

Romantic Things to Do

Book a couples surf lesson in Busua Bay. The waves break gently over sand, which makes it one of the best places in West Africa to try surfing for the first time.

Walk west along the beach and over the headland to Dixcove, about twenty-five minutes away, to see Fort Metal Cross and the busy fishing harbor. Go in the morning, before the heat.

Hike east to Butre, a pretty village where Fort Batenstein looks down over the river mouth. Hire a canoe to paddle upstream through the mangroves, then swim at the beach.

Take a day trip to Cape Three Points and its lighthouse, the southernmost point of Ghana, with wide views over forest and ocean.

For a longer outing, head west past Axim to Beyin, where a canoe ride across a lake and through raffia palms leads to Nzulezo, a village built entirely on stilts.

On your last evening, book a beach dinner with lobster and a fire on the sand.

Getting There and Around

Kotoka International Airport in Accra is the international gateway. From there, Busua is roughly five to six hours by road, depending on traffic.

A quicker option is to fly from Accra to Takoradi on a domestic airline such as Africa World Airlines or PassionAir. The flight takes under an hour and Busua is about forty-five minutes by car from Takoradi.

If you are coming from Cape Coast, the drive is around two hours.

Most couples hire a private car and driver, which lodges can usually arrange. Taxis also run from Takoradi and shared minibuses go to Agona Junction, from where local taxis serve Busua.

Within Busua, everything is walkable. To reach Butre, Dixcove and Akwidaa, you can walk along the coast, take a local taxi or hire a guide. Cape Three Points and Nzulezo are best visited with a driver.

Avoid driving at night. Roads are unlit and can be in poor condition, especially in the rainy season.

Food and Drink

Busua's food scene is better than you might expect for a small village. Lobster, barracuda, red snapper and prawns are landed daily and often grilled to order on the beach.

Local dishes include fufu with light soup, banku with grilled tilapia and red red, a stew of black-eyed peas cooked in palm oil and served with fried plantain. Jollof rice and fried rice with chicken are everywhere.

In the mornings, look for fresh pineapple, papaya and mango, plus pancakes and omelets at guesthouses that cater to visitors.

Beachfront bars serve cold Club and Star beer, cocktails and fresh coconut. Palm wine is available in villages, usually in the morning when it is at its freshest and sweetest.

Restaurants are small and service is relaxed. Order early if you are hungry, especially when ordering grilled lobster, which can take a while to prepare. Some places close early outside high season, so ask your lodge about options.

Honeymoon Tips

Plan at least four nights. Getting here takes time and the area rewards slowing down.

Bring cash in cedis. ATMs are limited in Busua and many lodges, restaurants and guides prefer cash or mobile money. Withdraw in Takoradi or Accra.

Use mosquito repellent at dusk and take malaria prevention seriously, as the Western Region is humid and green.

Swim only where locals and lodge staff say it is safe. Busua Bay is relatively sheltered, but currents can be strong elsewhere along the coast.

Dress respectfully when walking through villages and ask before taking photos of people. Keep affection low-key in public.

Power cuts can happen. Lodges usually have generators, but bring a flashlight and charge devices when you can.

If you want to surf, book lessons with an established school and wear reef shoes if you plan to explore rockier spots.

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FAQ

Busua honeymoon FAQ

Is Busua good for swimming?

Yes, Busua Bay is one of the more sheltered and swimmable beaches on Ghana's coast, with relatively gentle waves. Conditions vary by season and currents can be stronger elsewhere along the coast. Ask your lodge about safe swimming spots, avoid swimming alone and be cautious in the rainy season when seas are rougher.

Can beginners surf in Busua?

Busua is the best place in Ghana to learn. The waves break over sand and are usually gentle, especially in the dry season. Several surf schools offer lessons and board rentals. More experienced surfers can find bigger waves at nearby breaks, particularly in the middle of the year when swells are larger.

How do we get to Busua from Accra?

The quickest way is to fly from Accra to Takoradi, which takes under an hour, then drive about forty-five minutes to Busua. By road from Accra, the trip is around five to six hours. Many couples break the drive with a stop in Cape Coast, which is about two hours from Busua.

Are there luxury hotels in Busua?

Not in the international five-star sense. Most accommodation is in guesthouses, small resorts and eco-lodges that are comfortable and characterful. A few lodges along the western coast, such as Lou Moon near Axim, are considered splurges. If you need full luxury, plan a night or two at a high-end hotel in Accra.

How many days should we spend in Busua?

Four to five nights is ideal. That gives you time to surf, walk to Dixcove and Butre, visit Cape Three Points and still have lazy beach days. If you want to visit Nzulezo or stay in an eco-lodge further west, add another night or two to your trip.

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