Why Honeymoon in Barichara
The town itself is the attraction. Its architecture is unusually intact: low houses of rammed earth, carved wooden doors, a sandstone cathedral that glows orange late in the day and small chapels at each end of town. There are no high-rises and little traffic, so evenings are quiet enough to hear the church bells.
The climate helps. At around 4,300 feet, days are warm and dry with cooler nights, comfortable for walking without the heat of the coast.
It also balances a trip. After the bustle of Bogotá or Cartagena, Barichara offers boutique hotels in restored colonial houses, gardens with hammocks and views across the canyon. If one of you wants a thrill, the river and canyon adventures of San Gil are 30 minutes away. The other can stay behind with a book.
When to Go
Santander has two dry seasons and two wetter ones. December through March and June through August are the most reliable months, with blue skies and dusty paths. April and May bring afternoon storms, as do October and November. Rain usually arrives in bursts and rarely ruins a whole day.
Temperatures change little across the year. Expect daytime highs in the upper 70s to low 80s Fahrenheit and nights in the 60s.
Colombian holiday weekends, Semana Santa and the Christmas and New Year weeks fill the town with visitors from Bogotá and Bucaramanga. Book ahead if your dates overlap. Midweek outside those periods, you may have the stone streets largely to yourselves. April and May are also when the famous big-bottomed ants are harvested.
Where to Stay
Barichara is small enough that any address in town is walkable, though the streets are steep.
- Near the Parque Principal: closest to restaurants and the cathedral, with converted colonial houses around courtyards.
- On the canyon side: hotels along the western edge of town have terraces facing the Río Suárez valley and the best sunsets. Worth paying more for.
- Outside town: fincas and small eco-lodges in the hills offer pools, gardens and total quiet, but you will need taxis or a car to reach dinner.
Most places are small, with a handful of rooms, often a plunge pool and breakfast included. Many are not air-conditioned, which is rarely a problem at this altitude. Approximate rates for a good double room run from about US$90 to US$250 a night. Book directly and ask about a room with a canyon view.
Romantic Things to Do
Walk the Camino Real to Guane, a stone road about 6 miles long that drops through dry hills and farms to a tiny village with a fossil museum and a quiet plaza. Leave early to avoid the midday sun, then take a bus or taxi back.
At dusk, go to the Mirador on the western edge of town and watch the canyon turn pink and gray. Then wander the lit streets to dinner.
Spend a day in San Gil. Raft the Río Fonce, which is gentle enough for first-timers, or the much wilder Río Suárez if you are both experienced. Visit the Juan Curí waterfall, where you can swim or rappel. Paragliding flights launch over the vast Chicamocha Canyon, an hour away.
Take a workshop in stone carving or handmade paper, both local traditions.
Getting There and Around
The fastest route from the US is a flight to Bogotá (BOG), then a short domestic hop to Bucaramanga (BGA). From there it is about three hours by road through the Chicamocha Canyon, a dramatic drive with many curves. Hire a private driver through your hotel rather than a street taxi.
By road from Bogotá the trip takes about seven to eight hours. Overnight buses run to San Gil, but couples generally prefer a private transfer or a stop in Villa de Leyva to break the journey.
From San Gil, local buses run to Barichara often during the day in about 40 minutes. In town, you walk. Wear real shoes; the sandstone is uneven and slippery after rain. Taxis and tuk-tuks handle trips to nearby villages. Avoid driving rural roads at night.
Food and Drink
Santander cooking is hearty and meat-forward. Try cabrito, roast goat served with pepitoria, a rice dish made with the animal's blood and offal. Carne oreada is sun-dried beef, grilled and served with yuca and arepa santandereana, a thin corn cake studded with crispy pork. Mute is a thick corn and tripe soup eaten on weekends.
The adventurous bite is hormigas culonas, toasted queen ants sold in paper cones around the plaza. They taste like salty, smoky peanuts.
Barichara also has a surprising number of small, chef-run restaurants serving creative Colombian food in colonial courtyards, often using ants, local herbs and river fish. Reserve on weekends. Finish with a glass of chicha or a hot aguapanela with cheese on cool evenings.
Honeymoon Tips
Do not confuse Santander with Norte de Santander. Colombia carries a State Department Level 3 advisory overall and Norte de Santander, on the eastern border, is one of the departments rated Level 4. Barichara is in Santander, a separate department that is part of the established tourist route. Still, read the current advisory before you go.
Pack sun protection and a hat. The Camino Real has little shade and the high-altitude sun is strong.
Adventure operators in San Gil vary in quality. Choose ones your hotel recommends, ask about guide certification and check the equipment before you go out on the water or in the air.
Barichara is quiet after dark and restaurants close early. Plan dinner by 8 p.m. and carry cash for small shops.
