Two Very Different Landscapes
Tortola is all altitude. The island is about 12 miles long and only a few wide, so the mountains rise almost straight from the sea. Roads switchback over ridges with views of a dozen islands, then drop to north shore bays like Long Bay, Cane Garden Bay and Smuggler's Cove. Sage Mountain, the highest point in the Virgin Islands, keeps a pocket of shaded forest at the top. The panoramas over the Sir Francis Drake Channel are some of the best in the Caribbean.
Virgin Gorda is lower and gentler in the south, where the granite boulders of The Baths, Spring Bay and The Crawl create beaches unlike anywhere else in the region. A narrow peninsula reaches northeast to Gorda Peak, about 1,370 feet. Beyond it lies the lake-like water of North Sound. There are fewer cars, fewer shops and a more village-like main settlement at Spanish Town. Tortola shows you the whole archipelago from above. Virgin Gorda puts you down in the water with it.
Where Couples Stay
Virgin Gorda's resorts are the reason many couples choose it. Rosewood Little Dix Bay, opened by Laurance Rockefeller in 1964 and rebuilt after Hurricane Irma, sits on a half-mile crescent of calm sand near Spanish Town with several restaurants and easy access to The Baths. Oil Nut Bay, on the island's far eastern tip, has no road at all. You arrive by boat or helicopter and get around by electric cart between hillside suites, a beach club and a small marina village. Saba Rock is a tiny island resort in North Sound with a bar, a short list of rooms and yachts all around. Villas near Mahoe Bay and Savannah Bay add independent options.
Tortola's lodging is more varied and less resort-driven. Long Bay on the north shore has a mile of quiet sand and a well-known beach resort. Cane Garden Bay has small inns and hillside villas. The West End around Soper's Hole suits couples who like marinas and sunset drinks. Scrub Island Resort sits on its own island a short boat ride from Beef Island.
Sailing and Boat Days
Both islands are made for life on the water, but in different ways. Tortola is the launch pad. Road Town is home to most charter fleets, so a sailing honeymoon usually starts here with a night on land to rest, provision and meet your crew. From Tortola, day trips reach Norman Island's snorkel caves, Cooper Island Beach Club and the Willy T floating bar off Peter Island. Ferries run to Virgin Gorda, Jost Van Dyke and Anegada.
Virgin Gorda is where boats come to rest. North Sound is one of the most protected harbors in the region, which makes it ideal for trying a small sailboat, kayak or paddleboard. Many resorts there include them. Hire a captain for Prickly Pear Island, Eustatia Sound or the reefs near Necker Island, with lunch at a beach bar where you swim straight off the boat.
If the voyage is the honeymoon, Tortola is your base. If you want boat days that end at a beautiful resort, Virgin Gorda wins.
Beaches and Things to Do
Virgin Gorda's headline is The Baths. Arrive at opening and walk the boulder trail to Devil's Bay, which involves ladders, ropes and a little scrambling, then cool off at Spring Bay and The Crawl. Hike Gorda Peak through dry forest for views over North Sound. At sunset, the Copper Mine ruins on the southeastern tip are often empty and glowing in late light. Wear water shoes with grip at The Baths, since the rocks are slippery.
Tortola offers more variety on land. Swim and snorkel early at Smuggler's Cove, then tour the Callwood rum distillery at Cane Garden Bay, where rum is still made in small batches in old stone buildings. Walk the rainforest trails on Sage Mountain. On a full moon night, the party at Trellis Bay brings fire sculptures, live music and local art. Brewers Bay and Long Bay stay quiet on busy cruise days.
Couples who like a full itinerary will get more from Tortola. Couples who want two or three memorable outings, then long lazy days, are well served on Virgin Gorda.
Getting There and Getting Around
Tortola has the territory's main airport, Terrance B. Lettsome International (EIS) on Beef Island, linked to the island by a bridge. American Airlines flies nonstop from Miami. Regional airlines connect from San Juan, Antigua and St. Maarten. Many travelers fly into St. Thomas (STT) instead and take a ferry of about 50 minutes to Road Town or West End. From EIS, taxis take around 25 minutes to Road Town and 40 to 50 minutes to the north shore at fixed fares.
For Virgin Gorda, most couples fly to EIS and take a ferry or water taxi of 20 to 30 minutes to Spanish Town, with some private transfers going straight to North Sound resorts. Little Virgin Gorda Airport (VIJ) takes small planes in daylight with strict baggage limits.
Driving is on the left on both islands. Tortola's roads are extremely steep with hairpin bends, which makes many couples rely on taxis. On Virgin Gorda, many resort guests never rent a car at all.
Seasons, Crowds and Prices
Both islands share the same calendar. December through April or May brings dry weather, steady trade winds and the best sailing, with peak prices and charter boats crowding the anchorages. May and June are good value, with lighter winds that make for smoother sailing and snorkeling. August through October is peak hurricane season, when some resorts, restaurants and charter operations close for part of September or October and ferries may run reduced schedules.
Cruise ships affect Tortola more directly, since they dock at Road Town and fill Cane Garden Bay on busy days. They also send tour boats to The Baths at midday, so visit early or late either way.
Virgin Gorda costs more. Saba Rock rooms start from around $550 a night, Oil Nut Bay's one-bedroom suites from about $850 with breakfast before fees and Rosewood Little Dix Bay from roughly $1,100, room only. Tortola has a broader spread of inns, villas and beach hotels, many well below those levels. All prices are approximate and vary by season.
