Why Honeymoon in Quebec City
Few places in North America feel this old. Walking through the gates of the Upper Town, you leave behind cars and chain stores for cobbled streets, cannons on the ramparts and the copper roofs of the Château Frontenac, a grand hotel that has dominated the skyline since 1893.
The city is compact. You can walk from the Plains of Abraham to the Lower Town and the old port in half an hour, passing cafés, galleries and churches.
It is also romantic in a quiet way. Dinner in a stone-walled bistro. A glass of wine on a terrace above the river. A walk under snowfall with the streetlamps glowing.
There is no long-haul flight and no jet lag. Many East Coast travelers can reach it in under two hours by air.
When to Go
Summer, from June to August, is warm and lively, with outdoor terraces, street performers and festivals. The Festival d'été, a large music festival, fills the city in July.
September and early October bring crisp air and red maples, especially on Île d'Orléans and in the countryside. It is a great time for couples.
Winter is cold, often well below freezing, with lots of snow, but it is a glorious season if you dress for it. The Carnaval de Québec runs for about two and a half weeks between late January and mid February, with ice sculptures, parades and night sledding. The Hôtel de Glace, an ice hotel outside the city, usually operates from January to March.
April is slushy and gray. November is chilly and quiet before the snow sets in.
Where to Stay
Stay inside or just outside the walls so you can walk everywhere.
The Fairmont Le Château Frontenac is the classic choice, perched over the river. Ask for a river-view room and you will wake up to ships on the St. Lawrence.
In the Lower Town, near the old port, Auberge Saint-Antoine combines modern rooms with old stone walls and artifacts found on site. It is one of the most romantic hotels in the city.
The Upper Town has many small inns in historic houses, some with fireplaces.
Saint-Roch, below the cliffs outside the walls, is a younger neighborhood with hip restaurants and boutique hotels. It offers better value and a more local feel.
For winter, consider a night at the Hôtel de Glace for the novelty, paired with a warm hotel in town.
Romantic Things to Do
Walk Dufferin Terrace at sunset, the boardwalk below the Château Frontenac, with wide views over the river to Lévis.
Ride the funicular down to Petit-Champlain, one of the oldest commercial streets in North America, lined with shops and cafés and lit with lights in winter.
Take the ferry across to Lévis and back for the best view of the skyline, especially at night.
Drive about 15 minutes to Montmorency Falls, which drop about 275 feet, taller than Niagara. Cross the suspension bridge over the top or ride the cable car.
Spend a day on Île d'Orléans, an island of farms and villages just east of the city. Stop at cideries, cheese makers and strawberry farms, then picnic by the water.
In winter, skate at the outdoor rink near the Parliament or go dogsledding outside town.
Getting There and Around
Quebec City's airport has a handful of US nonstops, mostly from East Coast and Midwest hubs such as Newark, Chicago and Washington, plus seasonal routes from Florida and other cities. Schedules change by season, so check before booking. Many couples fly into Montreal instead, which has many more US flights, then drive or take the train.
VIA Rail trains from Montreal take about three and a half hours. The drive takes about three hours.
From New England, driving is easy. Boston is roughly six to seven hours by car.
In the city, walk. Old Québec is compact but steep. The funicular and stairways connect the Upper and Lower towns. Taxis and buses are available for longer trips.
Rent a car for a day trip to Île d'Orléans or Montmorency Falls.
Food and Drink
Quebec City's restaurants are excellent, mixing French technique with local ingredients.
Try poutine, fries with cheese curds and gravy. It started in rural Quebec and is a point of pride.
Tourtière, a spiced meat pie, is traditional at holidays. Pea soup and baked beans with maple syrup show up at sugar shacks.
In spring, from about March to April, visit a cabane à sucre, a sugar shack in the countryside, for a feast of maple-glazed ham, eggs and pancakes, followed by hot maple taffy poured onto snow.
On Île d'Orléans, taste ice cider, a sweet drink made from frozen apples, alongside local cheeses.
Book a dinner at one of the city's tasting menu restaurants for a special night. Bakeries and crêperies handle breakfast.
Honeymoon Tips
Learn a few words of French. A simple bonjour and merci go a long way, even if you switch to English right after.
In winter, dress properly. Bring insulated boots, a warm parka, a hat and gloves. Temperatures can drop below zero Fahrenheit.
Book early for Carnival and summer weekends. Hotels inside the walls fill quickly.
Wear comfortable shoes. The streets are steep and some are slippery in winter.
Use a credit card without foreign transaction fees. Canadian dollars are used everywhere.
Restaurant servers expect roughly what they would at home, so leave 15 to 20 percent.
Mention your honeymoon when booking. Many hotels offer small extras, such as a bottle of local cider.
If you drive, note that road signs are in French. Arrêt means stop.
